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question for those who have done a SAS
Moderator: -Scott-
question for those who have done a SAS
What did you do for a front drive shaft?
He who laughs last thinks slowest.
The Tojo diff flange (with uni) was grafted onto my Mitsi propshaft, from memory it had to be lengthened 20-30mm and then was balanced.
The problem with this is that the Mitsi uni at the slip yoke end is only 25mm (cup size) but the Tojo uni at the diff end is 29mm.
I know you can get different size ears for the slip yoke to run a bigger uni from Hardy Spicer so it maybe possible to graft 29mm ears onto the slip yoke and propshaft to standardize the uni sizes.
It doesn't take much to flog out a 25mm uni..................
The Mitsi rear propshafts run a 30mm uni.
The Tojo's run 29mm uni's front and rear for both IFS and live axle versions.
The problem with this is that the Mitsi uni at the slip yoke end is only 25mm (cup size) but the Tojo uni at the diff end is 29mm.
I know you can get different size ears for the slip yoke to run a bigger uni from Hardy Spicer so it maybe possible to graft 29mm ears onto the slip yoke and propshaft to standardize the uni sizes.
It doesn't take much to flog out a 25mm uni..................
The Mitsi rear propshafts run a 30mm uni.
The Tojo's run 29mm uni's front and rear for both IFS and live axle versions.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
Unfortunately the Mitsi front and rear slip yokes are different and not interchangeable.
I think J Top's idea is the best.
If you use a Toyo diff then a IFS 4 Runner or Hilux front propshaft can be used (a live axle Lux uses a double cardan joint and is not necesary).
The Mitsi slip yoke can be welded to a Tojo flange and a 8-10mm hole drilled and tapped into the output shaft (there already is a pilot hole there) to locate it.
In the event of a uni or shaft failure the whole shaft can just be unbolted at the flanges and removed but the slip yoke with flange remains bolted to the t/case output shaft (so no leaks).
I think J Top's idea is the best.
If you use a Toyo diff then a IFS 4 Runner or Hilux front propshaft can be used (a live axle Lux uses a double cardan joint and is not necesary).
The Mitsi slip yoke can be welded to a Tojo flange and a 8-10mm hole drilled and tapped into the output shaft (there already is a pilot hole there) to locate it.
In the event of a uni or shaft failure the whole shaft can just be unbolted at the flanges and removed but the slip yoke with flange remains bolted to the t/case output shaft (so no leaks).
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
thanks that answers my question.Bitsamissin wrote:Unfortunately the Mitsi front and rear slip yokes are different and not interchangeable.
I think J Top's idea is the best.
If you use a Toyo diff then a IFS 4 Runner or Hilux front propshaft can be used (a live axle Lux uses a double cardan joint and is not necesary).
The Mitsi slip yoke can be welded to a Tojo flange and a 8-10mm hole drilled and tapped into the output shaft (there already is a pilot hole there) to locate it.
In the event of a uni or shaft failure the whole shaft can just be unbolted at the flanges and removed but the slip yoke with flange remains bolted to the t/case output shaft (so no leaks).
just to let every one know (and to brag a bit), i picked up a hilux diff today. will be very shortly starting to do a solid axle swap on my paj
He who laughs last thinks slowest.
I forgot to mention that if you use a low pinion Hilux centre you may need to run the Lux front propshaft with the double cardan joint due to the extra angle.
J Top and I used the high pinion Bundera front centre (which bolt into the Lux housing) so it sits about 3" higher and reduces the propshaft angle considerably.
J Top and I used the high pinion Bundera front centre (which bolt into the Lux housing) so it sits about 3" higher and reduces the propshaft angle considerably.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
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