Finally managed to get the Articulator IFS swaybar quick disconnect in. No major dramas. Just to cut a larger hole through the bash-plate to access the pin.
For those that dont know about this, here is the link to the website:
http://www.peppernet.org/articulator/
This was designed for Pajero applications so I think that I am the first non Paj to install it. On first impressions I am sure that I am getting more travel as upward travel rubs on guards even more than before... But I will sort that out later.
Noel
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Articulator Installed
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Articulator Installed
1992 3.2L V6 SWB Holden Jackaroo
2008 3.0L TD Holden Rodeo S/cab Trayback
2008 3.0L TD Holden Rodeo S/cab Trayback
Verdict.
Well the verdict is in.
Went 4x4ing in Collie over the weekend which has some of the best 4x4ing in the state so was a good test. Didnt disconnect the swaybar until after I had arrived at the campsite which was after a reasonably rough track. This is a bit of a no-no as the locking pins are known to break quite readily. I have a larger diameter 12mm pin which obviously helps. Could only remove the pin after finding some very flat ground which took a little while. Offroad the ride seemed to be significantly more comfortable with the wheels being able to act more independent of each other. The rubbing of the guards that I thought may be a problem turned out to be a non-event or at least no worse that previous which was good. Improvement in offroad capability is hard to measure as the Jack was pretty capable already but my mate Dino who has the Articulator in his Paj said that the wheel travel was noticably improved from what he could see. More front wheel travel on an IFS vehicle is obviously going to improve overall offroad ability. I will try to get some measurements at a later date to compare connected/disconnected travel. I was surprised at how well onroad handling was while disconnected, so much so that I didnt bother reconnecting prior to heading home.
So to sum it up I give it the thumbs up.
Noel
Went 4x4ing in Collie over the weekend which has some of the best 4x4ing in the state so was a good test. Didnt disconnect the swaybar until after I had arrived at the campsite which was after a reasonably rough track. This is a bit of a no-no as the locking pins are known to break quite readily. I have a larger diameter 12mm pin which obviously helps. Could only remove the pin after finding some very flat ground which took a little while. Offroad the ride seemed to be significantly more comfortable with the wheels being able to act more independent of each other. The rubbing of the guards that I thought may be a problem turned out to be a non-event or at least no worse that previous which was good. Improvement in offroad capability is hard to measure as the Jack was pretty capable already but my mate Dino who has the Articulator in his Paj said that the wheel travel was noticably improved from what he could see. More front wheel travel on an IFS vehicle is obviously going to improve overall offroad ability. I will try to get some measurements at a later date to compare connected/disconnected travel. I was surprised at how well onroad handling was while disconnected, so much so that I didnt bother reconnecting prior to heading home.
So to sum it up I give it the thumbs up.
Noel
1992 3.2L V6 SWB Holden Jackaroo
2008 3.0L TD Holden Rodeo S/cab Trayback
2008 3.0L TD Holden Rodeo S/cab Trayback
Good stuff Westy 
You and Deano can have "the battle of IFS flex comp"
The best benefit I reckon is the smoothness offroad the 2-3" of extra wheel travel is nice but with a front locker it doesn't really matter that much.
The best way of measuring your wheel travel is the forklift test if you have access to one.
You and Deano can have "the battle of IFS flex comp"
The best benefit I reckon is the smoothness offroad the 2-3" of extra wheel travel is nice but with a front locker it doesn't really matter that much.
The best way of measuring your wheel travel is the forklift test if you have access to one.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
Technically none, you will just change the range of wheel travel.
You will gain in up travel but loose the same amount in down travel.
The only way to actually increase wheel travel with IFS is to cut your upper and lower bumpstops but make sure you have tyre room for this particularly for up travel.
The issue then becomes CV working angles, most are designed for a maximum working angle of about 29 degrees after that premature wear or outright failure are very real possibilities particularly with a front locker.
You will gain in up travel but loose the same amount in down travel.
The only way to actually increase wheel travel with IFS is to cut your upper and lower bumpstops but make sure you have tyre room for this particularly for up travel.
The issue then becomes CV working angles, most are designed for a maximum working angle of about 29 degrees after that premature wear or outright failure are very real possibilities particularly with a front locker.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
thanks for that.
I think my front end has sagged abit and i was just going to see if i could change it alittle. All new torsion bars are on the list but i have to fix the CV's, breaks and sump seal first. This weekend is the breaks. Is there any easy way to check if u have enough tire room or is it just trial and error???
cheers,
Greazy
I think my front end has sagged abit and i was just going to see if i could change it alittle. All new torsion bars are on the list but i have to fix the CV's, breaks and sump seal first. This weekend is the breaks. Is there any easy way to check if u have enough tire room or is it just trial and error???
cheers,
Greazy
Life is for my own to live my own way......
Ok it depends on the wishbone stopper/bracket configuration.
On a Pajero the up travel is limited by the lower bumpstops, if you leave them alone you will be fine provided your tyres didn't rub on the guard before you crank your t/bars.
The upper bumpstops limit down travel when you wind the bars up the gap closes between them and the chassis mounted stopper bracket. Most blokes cut only the upper ones so the downwards travel stays pretty much the same after the t/bar wind up (you get the extra height with pretty much the same down travel).
When I had 31"s I cut the crap out of the upper and lower ones and the tyre just cleared the guard when compressed up when I went to 33"s I had to put standard height lower bumpstops back in as the bigger tyre rubbed severly.
On a Pajero the up travel is limited by the lower bumpstops, if you leave them alone you will be fine provided your tyres didn't rub on the guard before you crank your t/bars.
The upper bumpstops limit down travel when you wind the bars up the gap closes between them and the chassis mounted stopper bracket. Most blokes cut only the upper ones so the downwards travel stays pretty much the same after the t/bar wind up (you get the extra height with pretty much the same down travel).
When I had 31"s I cut the crap out of the upper and lower ones and the tyre just cleared the guard when compressed up when I went to 33"s I had to put standard height lower bumpstops back in as the bigger tyre rubbed severly.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
Hi Dave,
The Articulator's going fine, no complaints. Havent really been using it as it was internded. Just been leaving it disco'd all the time.
Im not real sure how you will go about getting hold of one now. I dont think they're being made any more. Last time I checked the site it wasnt up... Check with Bitsamissin on this board to see if they are still available...
Cheers,
Noel
The Articulator's going fine, no complaints. Havent really been using it as it was internded. Just been leaving it disco'd all the time.
Im not real sure how you will go about getting hold of one now. I dont think they're being made any more. Last time I checked the site it wasnt up... Check with Bitsamissin on this board to see if they are still available...
Cheers,
Noel
1992 3.2L V6 SWB Holden Jackaroo
2008 3.0L TD Holden Rodeo S/cab Trayback
2008 3.0L TD Holden Rodeo S/cab Trayback
Noel,
look like a small amount will be available soon, with the option of going for an in cab controller...$250 for base model, no price as yet for the controller set up.
Have you disconnected your rear sway bar? Looking to make something up soon for mine, as the factory set up does bugger all.
Any idea who to contact over there for a front diff lock (lockrite?).
I'm still a little annoyed at missing out on the ARB one
Oredered my TJM winch bar yesterday, and I'm going back down to 32's for a few months until I figure out what to do suspension wise.
I have found a Japanese company that offer drop diff brackets and a suspension kit that look like it gives ok (well it doesnt look too bad) rear travel, so I'm trying to get in touch with them at the moment.
Cheers,
Dave
look like a small amount will be available soon, with the option of going for an in cab controller...$250 for base model, no price as yet for the controller set up.
Have you disconnected your rear sway bar? Looking to make something up soon for mine, as the factory set up does bugger all.
Any idea who to contact over there for a front diff lock (lockrite?).
I'm still a little annoyed at missing out on the ARB one
Oredered my TJM winch bar yesterday, and I'm going back down to 32's for a few months until I figure out what to do suspension wise.
I have found a Japanese company that offer drop diff brackets and a suspension kit that look like it gives ok (well it doesnt look too bad) rear travel, so I'm trying to get in touch with them at the moment.
Cheers,
Dave
KIWI wrote:Noel,
look like a small amount will be available soon, with the option of going for an in cab controller...$250 for base model, no price as yet for the controller set up.
Have you disconnected your rear sway bar? Looking to make something up soon for mine, as the factory set up does bugger all.
Any idea who to contact over there for a front diff lock (lockrite?).
I'm still a little annoyed at missing out on the ARB one
Oredered my TJM winch bar yesterday, and I'm going back down to 32's for a few months until I figure out what to do suspension wise.
I have found a Japanese company that offer drop diff brackets and a suspension kit that look like it gives ok (well it doesnt look too bad) rear travel, so I'm trying to get in touch with them at the moment.
Cheers,
Dave
Right, still available then. Knew they were working on the in cab version. Havent tried disconnecting the rear as yet. I imagine that the flex wouldnt be too bad with the stock 4-link setup. Will try one day.
Would be worth you trying it yourself before you consider forking out for suspension kits.
So have you done any measurements on the effects of the factory disco?
Lokka Contact is: http://www.4wdsystems.com.au/
Part #LR-39
Cheers,
Noel
Last edited by Westoztroopa on Sun Feb 15, 2004 11:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1992 3.2L V6 SWB Holden Jackaroo
2008 3.0L TD Holden Rodeo S/cab Trayback
2008 3.0L TD Holden Rodeo S/cab Trayback
OK, just read the post over at the Mitsu section.
Explains the situation pretty well. Looks like another batch of 20 units to be produced. Just get in early if you want one. The Jackaroo/Bighorn swaybar diameter is different to the Paj so will need to be machined to suit. You may want to check yours first but mine was 27.1mm diameter.
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=12991
Good luck,
Noel
Explains the situation pretty well. Looks like another batch of 20 units to be produced. Just get in early if you want one. The Jackaroo/Bighorn swaybar diameter is different to the Paj so will need to be machined to suit. You may want to check yours first but mine was 27.1mm diameter.
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=12991
Good luck,
Noel
1992 3.2L V6 SWB Holden Jackaroo
2008 3.0L TD Holden Rodeo S/cab Trayback
2008 3.0L TD Holden Rodeo S/cab Trayback
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