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does the front drive shaft spin in 2wd?

Tech Talk for Mitsubishi owners.

Moderator: -Scott-

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does the front drive shaft spin in 2wd?

Post by Glennb »

Had a tail shaft balance done yesterday to see if this was causing my vibe and as I thought NO the tail shaft is all perfect and is not causing my vibe. The fella said bring it back tomorrow(today) and he will get one of his guys to give it a test drive.
Now he thinks it could be the front drive shaft as he has found that it turns all the time when he moved the car in neutral and in 2wd, may have eaten out a uni.
I thought we had auto hubs that lock in when put it in 4x4.
So does the front drive shaft spin always?

He also found more than normal movement in my re-co CV.

Cheers
Glenn
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Post by -Scott- »

No, it shouldn't.

If you have auto hubs, the hubs should disconnect and the entire front driveline (diff and all connected shafts) should remain stationary.

If you have Super Select with the front axle disconnect the axles either side of the diff will be spinning in opposite directions (left driven by road wheel, right driven by spider gears) but the diff carrier, pinion and front drive shaft should be stationary.

If you have Super Select, my first guess would be a vacuum leak preventing the disconnect pulling in - in which case you should have flashing front wheel lights when you're in 2wd.

Other possibilities:
  • A friction problem in your front diff, so drag is causing the crownwheel and pinion to turn rather than the side gears.
    A problem in your transfer case, so the front output shaft is being driven when you have 2wd selected. NFI what would cause this.
Good luck,

Scott

Good luck,

Scott
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Post by Glennb »

NOT what I wanted to here Scott :cry: I give up on this FU#!ing thing :!:

Its super select.

I have no flashing lights.

This vibe has been there with both transfer cases ive had in it.

can I drive the car with the front drive shaft pulled out?
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Post by hudson44 »

swbpajero wrote: can I drive the car with the front drive shaft pulled out?
I wouldn't reccomend it as there will be nothing to stop the oil from the transfer case pouring out where the drive shaft goes.... unless maybe you have some sort of bung.


Have you damaged any of the bash plates last time you were wheeling? I had a vibration after wheling once and i worked out that it was the transfer case resting on the dinged bash plate. Maybe check the clearance or remove the bash plate and go for a drive!!

Hope this helps!

Gabe
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Post by Glennb »

Hudsan, yep done that myself over a log. checked that.

Scott, I just checked again and didnt realize (and obviously the tail shaft guy too) you have to have the car ON so the vacume works. :oops: so the front drive shaft does disengages.

So there goes that thoery. :?

Back to the drawing board. :cry:
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vibes

Post by klrevo »

swbpajero,

iv got a pretty bad vibe going throughout the car, had it since iv bought it last july. something along the lines of the tailshaft somewhere, have you lifted it swbpajero? im preusming 2" from your sig line... perhaps something to do with the lift, the output bearing in my tranny is fubar and im sort of presuming that that is the cause of my vibes, one day i might replace it... :? anything under 1500 revs, high gears, 2wd produces the vibes. anything over 1500 revs, in the appropriate gear or in 4wd and i dont get the vibes, i dunno either, but for now the car still runs, and drives as capable as ever, so im happy

dean ;)
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Post by Glennb »

Ive lowered my car back to stock and the vibe is still their. Im just concerned that the vibe can cause a bigger problem later and it is annoying, especially when I get the throbing in the ears. I also want to do some mods, suspension, front locker, lager tyres etc, about 4-5k worth but I dont want to do it to something that might sh!t self and cost 3k+ to fix it. Ive just spent 3.5-4k in the last 6mths fixing things on this piece of crap and and if there is another 4k to fix something on it I would rather off load it and spend the mod money on something else.(dont get me wrong I love this piece of crap when its working)

Cheers
Glenn
Last edited by Glennb on Tue May 16, 2006 9:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by hudson44 »

Have you checked the condition of your tyres? Maybe they are feathered or out of round. Maybe move the front's to the rear and vise-versa and see if the vibration changes!

Maybe a bent axle? Jack the diff off the ground and spin the tyres and check them for runnout!

Gabe
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Post by J Top »

Does 4wd reduce the vibe?
I have plugged the rear t/f case output with a plastic tube for the job, any tool company will have one, and driven in 4wd, proving a rear shaft problem. The 3l rear shafts are soft and replacing UJs can offset the cups giving a vibe. There are also needle roller bearings carrying the front CVs and a ball bearing carring the r/h axle which can fail giving vibes/noise.
If you have fwhs and they are worn they will set up a vibe. FWHs need to be greased like any other moving part
J Top
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Post by Glennb »

The vibe does reduce by about 50% when put into 4x4, but the throbbing vibe I get at 40 and 80ks does not reduce.
what the FWH?
Also happens with both sets of tyres I have.
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Post by Noisey »

Front or rear wheel bearings ?????
When I read about the evils of drinking, I gave up reading
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Post by Glennb »

I dont think its the wheel bearings because all the wheels dont move the wheels all feel nice and tight. Also when I ride the brakes at 35-40ks to enhance the vibe I dont get any vibe under my brake foot and or through the steering wheel.Also would I be able to enhance thevibe by riding the brakes if it was a wheel bearing?
Is there any other way to tell if I have a crook wheel bearing??
Cheers
Glenn
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Post by NJV6 »

Gearbox or engine mount broken or rubber missing?
1994 NJ SWB, 3.5, 5 speed manual, 33's, XD9000, 4.9 diffs, Front & Rear ARB's, Safari Snorkel

2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
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Post by 4runna »

here's another thought Glenn,

if the front propshaft is moving when unlocked and it shouldn't be, then maybe it could be something like a spider gear bearing? the theory is that one axle on the super select stays connected and the other is disconnected, so the easiest thing for the still driven driveshaft to spin is the spider gears.....

if there's a faulty bearing it will instead spin the crownwheel and therefore propshaft. This would also make sense if it changes when 4x4 is engaged as it would put different load on the faulty bearing(s)

So what's the front diff oil like? (muddy, milky or metal filings) and is it a little noisey?

You don't have manual free wheeling hubs installed do you? (maybe take the outer hub plate off each side to see if that helps.... for a short distance)

Guys, am I correct in the way that the axles disconnect (one always stays connected to the hub) I haven't stripped a Paj front end yet, so not 100% sure, but it sounds similar to other setups I've seen.

(Just a long winded version of one of scotts ideas, "Other possibilities:
A friction problem in your front diff, so drag is causing the crownwheel and pinion to turn rather than the side gears. " )

Rob
96 Paj 2.8 TD 2" lift, Snorkel, LR Tank, Dual Batt, winch, 32 MTRs, RT tent and rack, polyairs etc
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Post by Glennb »

Thanks 4 runner but I found that the front shaft does disengage, I didnt realize you have to have the car on so the vacume works. :oops:

I can now make the car HUMMMMMM when turning.So Im starting to think it is one of the wheel bearing thats causing this vibe but which one?

Ill post a new topic on this one.

Thanks for your help guys
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Post by South »

We had the same problem, bad vibe at 80kph and 120kph but fine with a slight huming sound. The unis on the rear tailshaft were siezed, replaced and the car is like new
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Post by Bitsamissin »

This happened to a guy on Trail Talk with a Gen 1 swb.
He replaced a shit load of stuff and the vibe was still there.
Turned out to be the rear slip yoke was flogged out with too much movement.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
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Post by Glennb »

Is the slip yoke the long skinny thing that slips into the rear of the tranfer case? I have had a slip yoke replaced with the old transfer case but if the slip yoke is the thing on the end of the tail shaft it would mean it still would be the new one which is only 12mths old. Could it wear out that quick?
For that reason I think I will lower my suspension anyway, I think its not helping having an auto which has a shorter tail shaft that a manual.
Can I check myself if the yoke has shit itself?(my old one used to leak)
Cheers
Glenn
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