Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Sandy Bowmans Rig
Sandy Bowmans Rig
Hi...
Where would i find some specs on Sandy Bowmans Orange/black zebra GQ ute...
Looks to have great approach and departure angles for a big rig...
Cheers!
VB
Where would i find some specs on Sandy Bowmans Orange/black zebra GQ ute...
Looks to have great approach and departure angles for a big rig...
Cheers!
VB
Re: Sandy Bowmans Rig
you won't he keeps that stuff up his sleeve, need to get in with the ontrack club to find out specific details, but even then......vanzbrown wrote:Hi...
Where would i find some specs on Sandy Bowmans Orange/black zebra GQ ute...
Looks to have great approach and departure angles for a big rig...
Cheers!
VB
marin
Rum injected
TD42T shorty... got some bolt on and some custom stuff.
Read about it [url=http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18848]here![/url]
TD42T shorty... got some bolt on and some custom stuff.
Read about it [url=http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18848]here![/url]
He has an extended wheel base. I don't know specific details but it is around the 100 inch mark. You can also run spacers on the radius arms to push them forward a bit. Generally about a 12mm spacer. Might not sound much but it makes a big difference. Then it is just a matter of keeping things at the front and rear as slim as possible. You can remove your radiator support and move your winch right back close to your radiator and keep your front bar in nice and close. To do this you'll need to trim your chassis rails back close to the body mounts to take advantage of it. You can do the same at the rear. All of these things on their own don't make that much difference but when you add them all together it can be the difference you need to get over an obstacle easier than the other guys. 
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 6&t=231346j-top paj wrote:gayer than jizz on a beard
It started life as a long wheel base, and as far as a i know the wheelbase has remained the same. Try calling him 97294899, he is a good guy, i'm sure for a price your rig could have the same as his approach and departuretoughnut wrote:He has an extended wheel base. I don't know specific details but it is around the 100 inch mark. You can also run spacers on the radius arms to push them forward a bit. Generally about a 12mm spacer. Might not sound much but it makes a big difference. Then it is just a matter of keeping things at the front and rear as slim as possible. You can remove your radiator support and move your winch right back close to your radiator and keep your front bar in nice and close. To do this you'll need to trim your chassis rails back close to the body mounts to take advantage of it. You can do the same at the rear. All of these things on their own don't make that much difference but when you add them all together it can be the difference you need to get over an obstacle easier than the other guys.
I stand corrected. I guess I just assumed it was a shorty. Same things apply with everything else though.TUFFRANGIE wrote:It started life as a long wheel base, and as far as a i know the wheelbase has remained the same. Try calling him 97294899, he is a good guy, i'm sure for a price your rig could have the same as his approach and departuretoughnut wrote:He has an extended wheel base. I don't know specific details but it is around the 100 inch mark. You can also run spacers on the radius arms to push them forward a bit. Generally about a 12mm spacer. Might not sound much but it makes a big difference. Then it is just a matter of keeping things at the front and rear as slim as possible. You can remove your radiator support and move your winch right back close to your radiator and keep your front bar in nice and close. To do this you'll need to trim your chassis rails back close to the body mounts to take advantage of it. You can do the same at the rear. All of these things on their own don't make that much difference but when you add them all together it can be the difference you need to get over an obstacle easier than the other guys.
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 6&t=231346j-top paj wrote:gayer than jizz on a beard
Sorry mate i wasn't trying to be a smart arse. just putting in the facts. pics can be found at www.offroadimages.com.au he competes in most eventstoughnut wrote:I stand corrected. I guess I just assumed it was a shorty. Same things apply with everything else though.TUFFRANGIE wrote:It started life as a long wheel base, and as far as a i know the wheelbase has remained the same. Try calling him 97294899, he is a good guy, i'm sure for a price your rig could have the same as his approach and departuretoughnut wrote:He has an extended wheel base. I don't know specific details but it is around the 100 inch mark. You can also run spacers on the radius arms to push them forward a bit. Generally about a 12mm spacer. Might not sound much but it makes a big difference. Then it is just a matter of keeping things at the front and rear as slim as possible. You can remove your radiator support and move your winch right back close to your radiator and keep your front bar in nice and close. To do this you'll need to trim your chassis rails back close to the body mounts to take advantage of it. You can do the same at the rear. All of these things on their own don't make that much difference but when you add them all together it can be the difference you need to get over an obstacle easier than the other guys.
No worries
With the way Sandy drives, it wouldn't matter if he had good approach and departure angles. He'd just go through it if he couldn't go over it 
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 6&t=231346j-top paj wrote:gayer than jizz on a beard
sandys trucks pretty basic
just been bobbed front and rear i.e. cut front gaurds and rear not sure how much. but has improved approach departure angles.
standard wheel base LWB
prefers a cut down cab into ute then cut into cab and tray as the weight is more evenly distrubuted.
radiator also sits in the back.
thats about it.
just been bobbed front and rear i.e. cut front gaurds and rear not sure how much. but has improved approach departure angles.
standard wheel base LWB
prefers a cut down cab into ute then cut into cab and tray as the weight is more evenly distrubuted.
radiator also sits in the back.
thats about it.
---------------------------------------------
04 GU TD6 wagon with some ARB stuff
---------------------------------------------
Morkz Media Web and Graphic Design
Also webhosting and domain registration.
04 GU TD6 wagon with some ARB stuff
---------------------------------------------
Morkz Media Web and Graphic Design
Also webhosting and domain registration.
Have a close look at the doors (or whats left of them) next time you see it at a comp, you can see it was a lwb wagon many moons and dents ago.toughnut wrote:I stand corrected. I guess I just assumed it was a shorty. Same things apply with everything else though.TUFFRANGIE wrote:It started life as a long wheel base, and as far as a i know the wheelbase has remained the same. Try calling him 97294899, he is a good guy, i'm sure for a price your rig could have the same as his approach and departuretoughnut wrote:He has an extended wheel base. I don't know specific details but it is around the 100 inch mark. You can also run spacers on the radius arms to push them forward a bit. Generally about a 12mm spacer. Might not sound much but it makes a big difference. Then it is just a matter of keeping things at the front and rear as slim as possible. You can remove your radiator support and move your winch right back close to your radiator and keep your front bar in nice and close. To do this you'll need to trim your chassis rails back close to the body mounts to take advantage of it. You can do the same at the rear. All of these things on their own don't make that much difference but when you add them all together it can be the difference you need to get over an obstacle easier than the other guys.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests