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Here is a diagram of the battery setup I'm thinking of. I have a redarc isolator and 120ah AGM which will live in the cabin. Cable will be whatever huge stuff my sparky mates nicked from work for me today
What I would like though is to make it completely portable so I can run the fridge and some lights away from the car sometimes
So I was thinking some anderson plugs in the location shown would allow quick disconnection and the battery could live in a large marine box with carry handles I could cut up the box as well and add a jaycar monitor with volts and fridge temp and some extra outlets
Anyone like to poke holes in my idea Or make suggestions for other useful stuff I should/ could put in
You could use the Anderson plug on the battery side to connect back to an inverter also fitted with a mating Anderson Plug on the 12v in if you wanted while this kit was out of the vehicle.
-Mick- wrote:
Next size up I've seen is 175amp of well overkill is good there I suppose
They are all the same price from ebay regardless of size.
I know not to worried about the price
I was a bit concerned that the 175amp rating might be a pie in the sky number though...... like they'll handle that for a microsecond before they go supernova A bit like RMS and peak power ratings you know.
Just a point but why do you feel the need to run a fuse in it? And more to the point, where are you gonna get a big enough fuse that wont blow if your vehicle has to use the 2nd battery to start the engine (ie if you flatten the main)
The hardest thing about owning a jeep is telling your parents you're g a y!!
gotta wait and see what size cable my mates borrowed for me from work before I buy anderson plugs.... be no good if the cable doesn't fit in the plugs hey
But I'll take your advice and up the amps on the connectors......... cheers
Cossie wrote:Just a point but why do you feel the need to run a fuse in it? And more to the point, where are you gonna get a big enough fuse that wont blow if your vehicle has to use the 2nd battery to start the engine (ie if you flatten the main)
If on the vehicle, the + wire rubs through ... A fuse at both ends is a good Idea. Fire is BAD
Last edited by Bad JuJu on Tue May 23, 2006 8:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Cossie wrote:Just a point but why do you feel the need to run a fuse in it? And more to the point, where are you gonna get a big enough fuse that wont blow if your vehicle has to use the 2nd battery to start the engine (ie if you flatten the main)
I'm no electrics whiz but I'm pretty sure a fuse is a good idea They're called maxi fuses and I'll be getting a 100 amp one. They're friggin huge. Google it
Cossie wrote:Just a point but why do you feel the need to run a fuse in it? And more to the point, where are you gonna get a big enough fuse that wont blow if your vehicle has to use the 2nd battery to start the engine (ie if you flatten the main)
I'm no electrics whiz but I'm pretty sure a fuse is a good idea They're called maxi fuses and I'll be getting a 100 amp one. They're friggin huge. Google it
100amp is a pretty big fuse, now go and look on your battery and see how many cold cranking amps (CCA) it is rated at (anywhere 600plus I imagine!)
I dont know exactly how many amps it takes to start a car engine but I dont reckon your 100amp fuse would hold up real well.
Like wise for winching (if you have one). Winches can draw up to 500amps, if you have dual batteries, some of that is gonna be coming from your 2nd battery, although not for long I reckon with a 100amp fuse!!
Forget the fuses and think very carefully about the positioning of the anderson plugs and also the cable routing (should be conduited on the +ve lead at least)
The hardest thing about owning a jeep is telling your parents you're g a y!!
Cossie wrote:Just a point but why do you feel the need to run a fuse in it? And more to the point, where are you gonna get a big enough fuse that wont blow if your vehicle has to use the 2nd battery to start the engine (ie if you flatten the main)
I'm no electrics whiz but I'm pretty sure a fuse is a good idea They're called maxi fuses and I'll be getting a 100 amp one. They're friggin huge. Google it
100amp is a pretty big fuse, now go and look on your battery and see how many cold cranking amps (CCA) it is rated at (anywhere 600plus I imagine!)
I dont know exactly how many amps it takes to start a car engine but I dont reckon your 100amp fuse would hold up real well.
Like wise for winching (if you have one). Winches can draw up to 500amps, if you have dual batteries, some of that is gonna be coming from your 2nd battery, although not for long I reckon with a 100amp fuse!!
Forget the fuses and think very carefully about the positioning of the anderson plugs and also the cable routing (should be conduited on the +ve lead at least)
I get your point Cossie, but I dont think winching or engine cranking was mentioned... Plus he could unhook and use jumper cables from his "mobile" battery
Last edited by Bad JuJu on Tue May 23, 2006 8:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Cossie wrote:Just a point but why do you feel the need to run a fuse in it? And more to the point, where are you gonna get a big enough fuse that wont blow if your vehicle has to use the 2nd battery to start the engine (ie if you flatten the main)
I'm no electrics whiz but I'm pretty sure a fuse is a good idea They're called maxi fuses and I'll be getting a 100 amp one. They're friggin huge. Google it
100amp is a pretty big fuse, now go and look on your battery and see how many cold cranking amps (CCA) it is rated at (anywhere 600plus I imagine!)
I dont know exactly how many amps it takes to start a car engine but I dont reckon your 100amp fuse would hold up real well.
Like wise for winching (if you have one). Winches can draw up to 500amps, if you have dual batteries, some of that is gonna be coming from your 2nd battery, although not for long I reckon with a 100amp fuse!!
Forget the fuses and think very carefully about the positioning of the anderson plugs and also the cable routing (should be conduited on the +ve lead at least)
I get your point Cossie, but I dont think winching was mentioned
OK, forget winching, but I fail to see the point in a dual battery system that cant start the engine if you flatten the main battery.
Just found this:
During the winter when the oil is thick and parts are tight, it requires a lot of current from the battery to turn over the engine. Some engines require as much as 600 amps of current to turn over the engine
Generally, a second battery system is installed to protect the cranking battery - the idea is to discharge the second battery, and leave the cranking battery in good shape. I believe this is what Mick's doing.
Scott
Last edited by -Scott- on Tue May 23, 2006 8:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Priced it the other day for a mate - about $700 exc. battery!
____________________
Dan
[quote="v840"]I bet you're the kind of person, when you're railing someone in the ass
you don't even have the common courtesy to give them a reach around! [/quote]
if I have to start the vehicle I'll take the 2nd out and jump off it......... then I'll put it back in..................... simple enough and I still have the dual battery setup protected with fuses in case it shorts which protects many hundreds of dollars worth of batteries and fridge. I simply wouldn't run a dual setup without a fuse.....................
Cossie how about telling us how you would set things up if you disagree..... just syaing we're wrong doesn't really lead to useful debate
JuJu I guess I'm setting up my own power pack of sorts. The retail ones come with crap amp hour/ capacities and thin wiring for big $$$. Even the 600 dollar or so thumpers are only 80ah or something
gu4800 I guess I'm making my own one of these with decent wiring and real usable capacity instead of the comprimised ones that sell for big $$$
That one actually looks good but nearly 1k with a decent battery fark that!!! My setup will cost 400 tops!!! They're a good idea these power packs for people like me without space in the engine bay for a 2nd battery.
I bet they sell well despite their crazy price..............