growling gearbox #!@!

Post by **F'n_Rover** » Tue May 23, 2006 6:56 pm

The series box is just about dead (kind of glad actually), It's growling in 1st, 2nd & 3rd but is ok in fourth. Drained the oil and found bits of a mangled synchro clip. I'm getting close to putting in an auto box - but won't have it done in time before a comming up snow / wheeling trip.

What sort of damage could it have done to cause the growling? (the synchro clip)
Am I on drugs for even thinking of still going ?
I've read it's possible to fit a new clip from the top of the box - any one done this ?

thanks

Simon

Post by **ISUZUROVER** » Tue May 23, 2006 7:45 pm

Your problem sounds like the layshaft or layshaft bearings, rather than the synchro clip. I take it you have a SIII box? If so the layshaft is not prone to failure. If you drive very gently in 1st-3rd it may hold up - if it is just the bearings it could go for a fair while before anything really bad happens.

By synchro clip, do you mean one of the flat-ish springs from the 3rd-4th synchro hub, or parts of the 1st/2nd synchro rings?

It could have damaged the input gears on the way out of the box, which would also explain the noise - since there is very little load on the input gears in 4th.

Website · Post by **cooter** » Wed May 24, 2006 10:53 pm

definatly sounds like layshaft bearings

done the same in my old s3

Post by **F'n_Rover** » Thu May 25, 2006 12:49 am

thanks guys - academic now, put the trip off until the auto is in. (fark all snow around at the moment anyway)

I don't think its got long to go, it's getting louder and louder. Sounds exactly like the straight cut low range gears, except it's about twice as loud.

Just gota last me a few more weeks - driving like an old woman to baby it.

Thinking back - It all started making noise right after I did some performance mods to the old holden donk. Maybe doing rollbacks and dumping the clutch caused the clip to let go ?

(yeah I know, I got a bit excited)

Post by **Turoa** » Thu May 25, 2006 3:42 pm

What will you use to convert it to auto. I have a 2a with a 202 and EFI bolted on (109kw of power compared to 82 with a carb). Gearbox was whining with the 186 that was in it. Its really loud now.

Post by **F'n_Rover** » Thu May 25, 2006 5:51 pm

Turoa wrote:What will you use to convert it to auto. I have a 2a with a 202 and EFI bolted on (109kw of power compared to 82 with a carb). Gearbox was whining with the 186 that was in it. Its really loud now.

Hi Turoa

I'll be using a ford c4 - only because I got it for free and was already mated to a series transfer. Still have to get a bellhousing from dellow and find someone who can sandwich a holden to ford torque converter.

Can you do me a big favor and post some pics of your engine bay? I'll be fitting a new 202 efi motor with the auto, but my measurements show that the efi manifold wont fit without cutting the bulkhead (footwell) and removing the heater. Also did you fit the vk extractors?

thanks
Simon

Also - don't settle for 109Kw, easy to get quite a few more out of the efi-202.

Post by **Turoa** » Thu May 25, 2006 7:56 pm

popeye wrote: Also - don't settle for 109Kw, easy to get quite a few more out of the efi-202.

hehehe it was a budget build. I need to find a cam with some low down torque though. Although it does have alot standard. I can wheel spin in 4th low on loose gravel. Takes off on any gear

I did use the extractors but it took alot of cutting and rewelding further in. The VK extractors are WAY too wide. Although about a month after I did the conversion, I bought a VK for parts and the cast manifold that was on it would have fitted nicely.

The perfect place for the computer is in the passenger side dash. The computer just sits in there nicely. The loom runs through the hole where the LHD steering columns go. TO modify the tank, put in a bigger pickup and use the old one as return. Put the pickup at the front of the tank (I put it in the middle and the cover wouldnt go on

).

The footwell does need modifying. I just cut it out and put in a box made of sheet metal in and welded it.

This is an unfinished project. The Air intake is going to run through some 80mm pipe into the bulkhead. Amazingly the 202 makes NO noise noticeable. If you block it off the engine stalls so I know it seals properly. The wiring in mine still needs to be tidied up. Also for the series owners with squabs, GET SEATS. I got some out of an XF fairmont ute. They are nice leather buckets and the mud just wipes off. big improvment over the squabs.

Here are the pics

I will upload a video of it running later. Video googles not running at the moment.

Keep me updated on the auto conversion. I was thinking of adapting the turbo VK box to the landy transfer or converting the landy transfer to a divorced type and just running a small D'shaft to the box.

Cheers
Turoa

Post by **Turoa** » Fri Jun 02, 2006 5:59 pm

short vid here.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid ... 6066926632

Post by **F'n_Rover** » Fri Jun 02, 2006 11:08 pm

Turoa - thanks for the vid.

Here's some stuff I've learned while doing my series auto conversion -

Don't do a c4 behind a holden motor. Its just too much mucking around ! - just been quoted $600 (plus) for a custom torque converter

. Although the bell housing is easy - $70 for a laser cut plate that goes between the trimatic bellhousing and the c4 case. (pump) I'm only doing the c4 as i got the transfer case adapter + c4 for free.

There is a mob around who does ( or did ) a trimatic to series t-case conversion kit, no idea who they are - but have heard talk of a mob in western australia. The trimatic can be built up strong - but is not a DIY job , where as the c4 is stronger and an easy DIY rebuild.

Also - no such thing as a vk turbo - Vl yes - but that is a nissan six and a shitty shit box auto.

Simon.

Post by **ISUZUROVER** » Fri Jun 02, 2006 11:28 pm

popeye wrote: Don't do a c4 behind a holden motor. Its just too much mucking around ! - just been quoted $600 (plus) for a custom torque converter .

Simon - is there any way of fitting a ford flex plate to the back of a holden motor, then using a stock ford torque converter???

Post by **Turoa** » Sat Jun 03, 2006 6:39 am

yeah ive since leaned it wasnt a turbo box. Its just what I got told by the previous owner. I did have a look at the box and a spare transfer case, but i'll leave the auto conversion to another day. First I need to fit the suffix c box the the suffic b transfer case to try the lower gearing.

Cheers

Post by **F'n_Rover** » Sat Jun 03, 2006 9:17 pm

ISUZUROVER wrote:
popeye wrote: Don't do a c4 behind a holden motor. Its just too much mucking around ! - just been quoted $600 (plus) for a custom torque converter .
Simon - is there any way of fitting a ford flex plate to the back of a holden motor, then using a stock ford torque converter???

Trouble is the ford converter wont fit in the holden bellhousing and the ford spigot ? is much bigger.
The converter mob is looking into fitting ford internals into the trimatic converter (with the ford nipple.) Then making up a crank adapter to accept the ford inputshaft nipple. I'm not having much luck at the moment - everything is an expensive head fcuk

I'm starting to think about fitting a small ford V8 - Could pick one up for less than the converter will cost.

Post by **Turoa** » Fri Mar 09, 2007 3:44 pm

Sorry to drag this thread up from the grave, but did you get the auto conversion sorted?

Im thinking of getting the trimatic in there before I get some driveshafts made

Post by **F'n_Rover** » Sat Mar 10, 2007 7:39 am

Turoa wrote:Sorry to drag this thread up from the grave, but did you get the auto conversion sorted?

Im thinking of getting the trimatic in there before I get some driveshafts made

Hi mate, sorry ended up going with the ford np435. Its not auto but I'm happy with it.

Sold the c4 conversion on ebay....

Cheers
Simon

Post by DL » Sat Mar 10, 2007 10:58 am

Hi guys,

I have a 74 RR that came with a 350 Chev and LT95. Bought an 83 recently and did a body transplant. The 83 came with an original Ritter C4 / LT95 TCase conversion (Ritter belhousing and adaptor to TCase,etc). Turned out that it was a C9 (stronger). Bulletproofed by Colin at Tradematics in Geelong for $850. Had a custom torque convertor made by Torqueflite in Thomastown, Melb to mate the C9 to a Chev flex plate, taking into account the adaptor plate for Chev to LT95. Cost about $480.

Has totally transformed this vehicle. Just a joy to drive now on or off road. Crawls downhill in 1st low range beautifully.

cheers, DL

Post by **Turoa** » Sat Mar 10, 2007 4:51 pm

F'n_Rover wrote:
Turoa wrote:Sorry to drag this thread up from the grave, but did you get the auto conversion sorted?

Im thinking of getting the trimatic in there before I get some driveshafts made
Hi mate, sorry ended up going with the ford np435. Its not auto but I'm happy with it.

Sold the c4 conversion on ebay....

Cheers
Simon

Thats cool, after talking to someone who has done the conversion before, we decided not to do a trimatic conversion yet. Once ive getten her going, I might look at it, or other engine transplants *cough*supercharged lexus v8*cough*

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growling gearbox #!@!

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