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UPDATE - Disco Truggy
Moderator: Micka
UPDATE - Disco Truggy
Well,
Had a 3 day trip back to Lebanon to work on the truck and we are 80-85% done so far - only things to do is finish (1) the exo cage, (2) clean up the wiring, & (3) figure out the air filter/snorkel bit. All the new components are fully functional (4.2, Auto, underdrive, new brakes, Saginaw PS pump, 120amp, paint, waterproofed cab, interior, etc...)
Here are some updated pictures.
1. You're going to laugh, but we found this hydro manual bender in an adjacent garage. No markings, but it did bend the 60mm x 5mm tubing fairly easily...
2. Tidied up the front end and made a hood-attached radiator grill that came out looking "hereditary" from a RR Sport - all lighting will be Defender based for ease
3. Dual Yellow-tops slapped right behind the seat
4. Tiny rear window is all we need to look out of the truck (VW camper source)
5. OK, the trophy. My mechanic called me up (I like out of country) and told me "I found this big ass PS pump, I want to try to mount it, its cheap and looks huge" - after knowing that it has a built in metal reservoir, I know it was one of those desirable ones. It was tricky to mount as the belt needed to clear the box, but it is doable. I'll attest to 0psi in the 42s, on garage floor and steering, at idle, with one hand
6. Approach angle is more than I wanted, but it is not as bad as it seems. There will be a stinger there in upside down "U" form (not "V" as the idea is that the "v" one will make the truck rotate to the side - not sure how viable that is). I replaced the Warn 4-pack solenoids with a single Albright sealed solenoid - one each per winch.
7. The inside lost the A/C but I left the heater for now for the winter and defogging the glass. The rear glass is tiny, so no structural strength lossed. Also, the underdrive level is set (rod, no wire)
8. The rear section is taken up mainly by the stock fuel tank, but it’ll also have place for the 60” hi-lift, Pull-pal, Waffles, and a storage area for my tools and recovery gear. Also a place for my scuba tank air source
9. Here’s mocking up the exo cage – in fact we’ve already finished the trickiest bar (top one) and are finishing the “main” cage by Tuesday and hopefully by Saturday we should be fully tacked in. Next week we’ll get it fully welded, epoxy painted (rubbery stuff, real durable and cheap), and then remounted for chassis welding.
I really want to extend the wheelbase eventually (next spring) – I’m getting married and moving to the US, so no use in investing more into it now…also thinking of putting some Mog U1300s on it (1100 USD for a pair, 1200USD if they are both steering) while I’m at it…
Any suggestions? Comments? Let me have it while I can change for the last week.
Main think that’s puzzling me, how to mount a snorkel WITHIN the cab area (not outside the Exo) in an easy manner? Also, so I really need a snorkel? The hood is chest level, and I don’t think I’ll be flogging it in deeper muck/water? An open cone Filter would do?
Had a 3 day trip back to Lebanon to work on the truck and we are 80-85% done so far - only things to do is finish (1) the exo cage, (2) clean up the wiring, & (3) figure out the air filter/snorkel bit. All the new components are fully functional (4.2, Auto, underdrive, new brakes, Saginaw PS pump, 120amp, paint, waterproofed cab, interior, etc...)
Here are some updated pictures.
1. You're going to laugh, but we found this hydro manual bender in an adjacent garage. No markings, but it did bend the 60mm x 5mm tubing fairly easily...
2. Tidied up the front end and made a hood-attached radiator grill that came out looking "hereditary" from a RR Sport - all lighting will be Defender based for ease
3. Dual Yellow-tops slapped right behind the seat
4. Tiny rear window is all we need to look out of the truck (VW camper source)
5. OK, the trophy. My mechanic called me up (I like out of country) and told me "I found this big ass PS pump, I want to try to mount it, its cheap and looks huge" - after knowing that it has a built in metal reservoir, I know it was one of those desirable ones. It was tricky to mount as the belt needed to clear the box, but it is doable. I'll attest to 0psi in the 42s, on garage floor and steering, at idle, with one hand
6. Approach angle is more than I wanted, but it is not as bad as it seems. There will be a stinger there in upside down "U" form (not "V" as the idea is that the "v" one will make the truck rotate to the side - not sure how viable that is). I replaced the Warn 4-pack solenoids with a single Albright sealed solenoid - one each per winch.
7. The inside lost the A/C but I left the heater for now for the winter and defogging the glass. The rear glass is tiny, so no structural strength lossed. Also, the underdrive level is set (rod, no wire)
8. The rear section is taken up mainly by the stock fuel tank, but it’ll also have place for the 60” hi-lift, Pull-pal, Waffles, and a storage area for my tools and recovery gear. Also a place for my scuba tank air source
9. Here’s mocking up the exo cage – in fact we’ve already finished the trickiest bar (top one) and are finishing the “main” cage by Tuesday and hopefully by Saturday we should be fully tacked in. Next week we’ll get it fully welded, epoxy painted (rubbery stuff, real durable and cheap), and then remounted for chassis welding.
I really want to extend the wheelbase eventually (next spring) – I’m getting married and moving to the US, so no use in investing more into it now…also thinking of putting some Mog U1300s on it (1100 USD for a pair, 1200USD if they are both steering) while I’m at it…
Any suggestions? Comments? Let me have it while I can change for the last week.
Main think that’s puzzling me, how to mount a snorkel WITHIN the cab area (not outside the Exo) in an easy manner? Also, so I really need a snorkel? The hood is chest level, and I don’t think I’ll be flogging it in deeper muck/water? An open cone Filter would do?
LR Disco truggy:
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
suggestions
great tip for you dino!!! fly it to aus next year and compete in tuff tucks 2007!!!!!!!!
looking wicked can't wait to see it wheel
looking wicked can't wait to see it wheel
thats looking awesome... something like that is gunna be stage 2 of my ute buildup
only thing i'd change is to vent the battery's in an enclosed box to outside, they can give off some pretty nasty gases.
is it all possible to flip your intake around so you can punch a hole into your firewall and the back of the glovebox?? or too much of a f#$k around?
allround an awesome build up tho!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Simon
only thing i'd change is to vent the battery's in an enclosed box to outside, they can give off some pretty nasty gases.
is it all possible to flip your intake around so you can punch a hole into your firewall and the back of the glovebox?? or too much of a f#$k around?
allround an awesome build up tho!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Simon
Just a small thing.
The tensioning pulley for the power steering pump is on the tight side of the belt. It should be on the slack side (before the pulley on the pump).
Also it is not good to reverse the direction that the belt bends over the tension pulley as you have done (vee belt has too large a distance from where the tension cords are located in the belt to the inner surface of the vee section).
As it is set-up, you will not get much life from the belt and it will let you down on the trail.
The tensioning pulley for the power steering pump is on the tight side of the belt. It should be on the slack side (before the pulley on the pump).
Also it is not good to reverse the direction that the belt bends over the tension pulley as you have done (vee belt has too large a distance from where the tension cords are located in the belt to the inner surface of the vee section).
As it is set-up, you will not get much life from the belt and it will let you down on the trail.
John
A shorter belt without the tensioner- adjust the pump for tension.Bush65 wrote:Just a small thing.
The tensioning pulley for the power steering pump is on the tight side of the belt. It should be on the slack side (before the pulley on the pump).
Also it is not good to reverse the direction that the belt bends over the tension pulley as you have done (vee belt has too large a distance from where the tension cords are located in the belt to the inner surface of the vee section).
As it is set-up, you will not get much life from the belt and it will let you down on the trail.
Saddle up tonto, its the not so loanrangie! . 98 TDI DISCO lightly modded with more to come.
John,
Agree with you - but no way to install it on the other side - I'll carry a spare belt, that's for sure, and anyways, the engine doesn't see many working hours...its my weekend warrier, the TD5 ST is my DD...valid point though
As for the rear end, its FUGLY as is, I agree, but once done, it should be less FUGLIER
Thanks Mandy
Agree with you - but no way to install it on the other side - I'll carry a spare belt, that's for sure, and anyways, the engine doesn't see many working hours...its my weekend warrier, the TD5 ST is my DD...valid point though
As for the rear end, its FUGLY as is, I agree, but once done, it should be less FUGLIER
Thanks Mandy
LR Disco truggy:
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
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