Car trailer

Post by **Rhett** » Fri May 12, 2006 5:53 pm

Ok Ive given up on my old trailer. I ordered new axles to go under it with elec brakes to tow down to xrcc with but they only turned up today so Ive decided to build a new trailer. Im going for the light aproach(those who have seen my old one would know why) I was woundering what to use for floor covering. and if any one had any plans or ideas. Cheers Rhett

Post by **bastard** » Fri May 12, 2006 6:14 pm

Just finished building one with rock hammer racing we used 2.5mm chequer plate for flooring.Its all getting painted up tomorrow.

Post by **Ruggers** » Fri May 12, 2006 6:24 pm

expanded steel mesh its light and strong i have it on my tandem whihc i tow my mud racer and it holds up real good and when washing the car on the trailer the mud just falls though

Post by **Shorty40** » Fri May 12, 2006 6:34 pm

Ruggers wrote:expanded steel mesh its light and strong i have it on my tandem whihc i tow my mud racer and it holds up real good and when washing the car on the trailer the mud just falls though

x 2

Post by **Rhett** » Fri May 12, 2006 6:41 pm

I was thinking of going expana mesh but what about towing on wet dirty roads dosent it flick up through?

Post by **Spartacus** » Fri May 12, 2006 6:58 pm

i think STIKA built his for Tough truck... used hardwood boards

Post by **midnight** » Fri May 12, 2006 7:46 pm

Why not have mesh in the centre, and some 'tracks' down the dies, where the wheels go.........light, and the oil drips dont land on the trailer.....

Post by **Eddy** » Fri May 12, 2006 8:31 pm

Rhett wrote:I was thinking of going expana mesh but what about towing on wet dirty roads dosent it flick up through?

Put the mesh on so that the segments slope downwards from front to rear. The air preasure under the car on board will force the crap under.

Use the mesh only on the each side, enough to run the wheels on, and use light weld mesh in the centre. ( or slide the ramps up the centre)

If you use removeble decking of whatever materials in the centre, you have a portable car pit/hoist for service/repair work too.

Post by **Rhett** » Sun May 14, 2006 10:29 am

Any one got any car trailer plans?

Post by **PJ.zook** » Sun May 14, 2006 12:46 pm

If im hijacking the thread then ill delete, but has anyone knocked teh body off an old caravan and used the frame as a car trailer?

Post by **80lsy gq** » Sun May 14, 2006 12:59 pm

PJ.zook wrote:If im hijacking the thread then ill delete, but has anyone knocked teh body off an old caravan and used the frame as a car trailer?

way too much stuffing around and would end up costing you more than just building one outright from scratch.also you can make it exactly how you want to make it...

i just finished building mine and it only took 2 days of actual work to do

dave

Post by **Mad Cruiser** » Sun May 14, 2006 2:20 pm

PJ.zook wrote:If im hijacking the thread then ill delete, but has anyone knocked teh body off an old caravan and used the frame as a car trailer?

Roger Vickery from ARB QLD HQ at Nundah used an old caravan and took the body off, built it into a flat top car trailer for his race car. Drop in and he'll let you have a look at it

Post by **J Top** » Sun May 14, 2006 4:54 pm

Standard formula for trailer for axle placement, for every foot of trailer length {not including drawbar} place the axle or dual axle centreline 1/2" to the rear. This gives excellent tracking.
2 planks or rows of exp mesh for the wheels and a toolbox sunk below the floor between the axles for any spares not required in transit, ie CVs, axles, hubs, bearings etc. this would need to be waterproof or atleast the parts would need to be well greased.

Caravans usually have a very light chassis, even just folded U section
J Top

Post by **jeep97tj** » Sun May 14, 2006 5:07 pm

most caravans do have a very light chassie because there weight is all even and doesnt change. I would think if u started to drive a 4x4 up onto one it wouldnt take long to bend the rear of it as when loading and un loading most of the weight is on the very rear of the frame.

Post by **Modified Toy** » Sun May 14, 2006 5:35 pm

is it true you also need and engineers cert in nsw? they should have standards to build one to.

Post by **Rhett** » Wed May 24, 2006 7:29 pm

I know a few others are building trailers or thinking about it now so anyone got any new ideas? Ive heard to many bad stories about tilters so mine is gunna be fixed now with a bend in the rear for easyer loading. How high is most ppls platform? as Im still deciding to go soa or sua. as there is 100mm in hieght difference

Post by **Micka** » Wed May 24, 2006 11:53 pm

Rhett wrote:I know a few others are building trailers or thinking about it now so anyone got any new ideas? Ive heard to many bad stories about tilters so mine is gunna be fixed now with a bend in the rear for easyer loading. How high is most ppls platform? as Im still deciding to go soa or sua. as there is 100mm in hieght difference

The one that Bastard built for us is SOA. At first it looked too high, but with my Fender sitting a bit high anyway, it has made it quite good. Towed back to the Gabba from Jimboomba last night and it rode like a dream. Far, far better than a rental piece of crap.

Micka

Post by **STIKA** » Thu May 25, 2006 8:14 am

Rhett wrote:I know a few others are building trailers or thinking about it now so anyone got any new ideas? Ive heard to many bad stories about tilters so mine is gunna be fixed now with a bend in the rear for easyer loading. How high is most ppls platform? as Im still deciding to go soa or sua. as there is 100mm in hieght difference

Go sua thats how mine has been built with drop axles

the closer to the ground the better the towing and fuel ecomomy

mine has been towed over 5000km now and it is the best trailer i have ever towed with.

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