Rocky turbo intercooled vs turbo vs n/a

[russell2pi]

Hi, I'm looking at a couple of Rockys with a view to buy. One is the turbo diesel and the other afaik is naturally aspirated. Just wondering, how much of a difference does it make, on road and off? Is the n/a one frustrating or is it ok? I test drive a 4runner 2.8D (na) today and found it a bit sluggish but probably tolerable.

While I'm at it, when did IFS come in, 1990 I saw somewhere but can anyone confirm?

Edit: thread title

[RockyF75]

Turbo makes a noticable difference, but for a N/A diesel, Rocky's are pokey. So if the 4runner you drove was bearable, the rocky will be much much better. Also rocky'd be lighter than the runner anyway.

If serious offroad is your aim, i'd go NA Solid axle before a TD IFS. Of course, a TD Solid axle would be perfect if you can find it ... 1990 sounds about right, or was it 1993

My rocky's NA and my friend has a TD. On some hills it means he gets to be in a higher gear. But compared with a 2H equiped yota, or my other mates GQ Diesel (4.2) the rocky blows them outta the water on hills and off the mark.

[russell2pi]

Ta... based on that I might hold out for a td though these things aren't exactly common. Just rang the n/a bloke and it was sold 3 months ago but still listed on carpoint.com.au!! Argh. I'll still keep looking though, I like the sound of these things. Dealer prices seem wayyy above redbook prices though.

[russell2pi]

One more Q: how about the intercooled models, how do i know if it's got one (go easy me, never had a turbo before) and does it help much over the non-intercooled TD?

[HotFourOk]

Yeah, Aug 1993 is when IFS came in. This model was pretty much all Turbo Intercooled models with wider wheel track and coil rear suspension.

The IFS models do lack a bit of front flex offroad, but the rear flexes more than the leaf models. The IFS gives good onroad handling, so it depends on your main use for the car. I do a fair bit of offroading and the IFS is fine for me.. each to thier own.

U get a few more ponies with an intercooled model... Just have a look for the cooler itself. It is located next to the passenger headlight, forward of the radiator, with two big rubber pipes going into it., not hard to miss.

I would hang out to get the turbo model too mate.. much more power to be had.. Most people with n/a motors have plans to turbo them later anyway. So that tells you something
Whatever you get, they are really good motors.

And yes, they are very rare, and you pay for it.
Although redbook listed around 8g for private sale, I ended up paying 11g for mine through a caryard.
I wouldn't change it anyday though, so stoked with it

[r0ck_m0nkey]

Basically have to decide which model you're after. I am going to assume you're after the MWB Resin Top version and not a SWB Hardtop (they do exist in Turbo version but hard to come by). Without getting into exact changeover points, if it's an 80's model it's going to be non-intercooled, if it's a 90's model it will be.

If the IFS Model is all you want, they are the same, just have to find one you like. If you're after the solid front axle model, go with an early 90's model, they are around.

Just a quick look around and there is white 1992 model on

http://www.carsales.com.au

Has relatively low km's on it to for it's age, if it was in good condition and could knock some off the price, it would be worth a look.

[BundyRumandCoke]

I drove a N/A diesel swb home from Rocky to Gladstone. I was really surprised how well it went, being used to a turbo 2.8 in my lwb. I think it cold have been the bare bones interior. No weight.
It depends on what you are intending to do, if your not intending to tow a lot, and are content on getting there eventually if you do tow, then the N/A is probably ok. If you want to tow in comfort, get a turbo. You can always intercool it afterwards.

[RockyF75]

http://www.carsales.com.au/pls/carsales ... istance=25

this the one you talkin bout monkey?

16600k's Engine should do double that if maintaned.
TD Intercooled With Solid front..... i want it
I reckon $7200's a bit rich for it. Or is that about the going price? Worth a look russell.

[russell2pi]

Thanks, I'm looking at one not quite as good a deal but also not 100s of kms away 1990 sports afield turbo intercooled 195000 km for $6000 (firm).. hopefully the mechanic's inspection should be happening as we speak!!

[russell2pi]

input bearing stuffed, hubs need overhauling, brake system problems, rear diff noise ....

[murcod]

In all honesty you'll probably find most will have some problems given their age. IMHO go for one with an excellent chassis and body as it's relatively easy to replace the engine / gearbox etc if they're a bit suss. (Compared to trying to replace a rusty body or chassis.)

[r0ck_m0nkey]

In all honesty you'll probably find most will have some problems given their age. IMHO go for one with an excellent chassis and body as it's relatively easy to replace the engine / gearbox etc if they're a bit suss. (Compared to trying to replace a rusty body or chassis.)

I somewhat disagree with this. Rust in the body is easier to fix then having to rip an engine out, it's also something that can be done gradually and not having to do all at once, so bearing the cost isn't as bad. A bit of rust isn't going to leave you stranded broken down somewhere either. Minor stuff like bearings, uni's even diffs aren't a huge concern, but nor is a bit of rust. But a vehicle thats only 15 years old if it's been looked after should be good in all aspects anyway.

As for the above vehicle, tell them to fix it, it's a car yard they shouldn't even be selling a vehicle with the likes of a dud braking system.

[r0ck_m0nkey]

this the one you talkin bout monkey?

16600k's Engine should do double that if maintaned.
TD Intercooled With Solid front..... i want it
I reckon $7200's a bit rich for it. Or is that about the going price? Worth a look russell.

Thats the one i am talking about. Price wise certainly on the upper end of what it's worth, but with those km's, it'd be worth looking at.

[murcod]

I somewhat disagree with this. Rust in the body is easier to fix then having to rip an engine out, it's also something that can be done gradually and not having to do all at once, so bearing the cost isn't as bad. A bit of rust isn't going to leave you stranded broken down somewhere either. Minor stuff like bearings, uni's even diffs aren't a huge concern, but nor is a bit of rust. But a vehicle thats only 15 years old if it's been looked after should be good in all aspects anyway.

As for the above vehicle, tell them to fix it, it's a car yard they shouldn't even be selling a vehicle with the likes of a dud braking system.

My last car had rust in the body (not much but it was in a bad area -> the firewall ) , I ended up selling it "as is" due to it not being worth spending the money fixing the engine when the camshaft belt snapped. Given Rockys and Ferozas have most body panels galvanised I'd be very suss if one has some rust. It could indicate a lot of beach use and be a sign of things to come.

IMHO it's not much use having a good engine / drive train if the body and chassis is rusting away.

I bought my Feroza knowing the gearbox had some wear in it. I was prepared to have to replace it in a year or two because the body and interior were so immaculate. After 3 years I'm only now looking at fixing the gearbox up (and finally that clutch kit will be going in! ) A gearbox from a wrecker is only $550, but I'll be getting a rebuild.

[RockyF75]

input bearing stuffed, hubs need overhauling, brake system problems, rear diff noise ....

add up the cost to fix ir from your inspector, go to the seller with it and ask them to knock it off the price, or atleast half.

Input bearing is a gearbox bearing right? Where the shaft (?) goes into the G/Box? I had to do this on mine (might be a common thing ), on acceleration/deceleration the gear lever would move a bit, this movement in the G/box wore out a bunch of bearings eventually.

Hub seals is also something i had to do, and need to do again. Dirt gets stuck in the hubs and ruins the seals. Only worry about it during rego time (wipe the grease away before inpection ). Brakes, well, fix em asap ... rear diff noise.... could be a uni if your lucky Did the machanic hear this or did you. This'd be the only major worry for me if I was buying it, spare diffs aren't easy to come by... not is sydney atleast. And always allow an extra 20% of what your spending for repairs just in case.

And PM me if you want a good, reasonably priced mech in west sydney if you buy it. He's done all the work on mine.

[cookiesa]

Still goes strong. Regularly drive Whyalla to Adelaide and back (approx 700km)

Sits on 105km/h OK, bit noisy ! Still a little left for overtaking, will wind out to about 125-130 and returns good fuel (About 10l/100km)

Mine has AC and cruise. Only thing done to it apart from servicing (was well looked after all of it's life) is a water pump and I replaced the radiator a few months back as it was stuffed. (I think the new radiator, not repaired/recored etc was $220 in the country.)

Do a fair bit of sand and rocky trail work with it as well as my daily driver to/from work. Love it

Only gripe with mine is no power steer around town. But it has wide tyres which i'll change to narrow when I replace them to help with this.

Take both for a drive and see which you prefer and which you can get the best deal on.

I'm a fan of T/D, our other vehicle is a Disco but have also had Jackaroos which were TD. Both racked up high Km with no probs

[Spartacus]

well i drove the rocky for the first time with turbo on it and so yeh, if u
can get a turbo get it, if u cant then your only a flyshit slower... without a whistle

[russell2pi]

Much as a like the rockys they seemed a bit rare and so overpriced for someone in a hurry. I ended up with a Pajero 2.3 turbo diesel instead. A lot cheaper and less k's but a bit older than the Rockys I found. (1986 model, $3800, 170000 km, only 130000 on the motor, 1 lady owner, regular services etc etc)