Hey Guys,
I'm shopping around for a cheap 4wd to replace my rolled F75 Rocky. I went and looked at a 1978 FJ40 today, and was hoping I could get some comments on the model. It pretty much looked just like this one.
But, it had a little bit of rust. Mostly around the gutter that lines the roof, a few 15mm wide streaks down from the roof to the windows, around joints such as the bonnet clamps and discolourment rust on the instrument panel.
Had a straight 6, 4.2L petrol which took a few turns to start but sounded quite smooth after that, no obvious smoke. Large (dunno the measurements... 29-31"?) tyres with not a lot of tread left, on fairly clean white rims. Solid nudge bar thing at the front.
Bloke reckoned it was great mechanically - he's had it 3 months and only fixed up the lights and indicators which weren't working. He noticed some oil out of the rear wheel/axle area which he reckoned he'd fix up no worries tomorrow.
Rego till June. Had $4000 on it, but he said $3500 today, and I'd try for a bit lower. Whaddya reckon? I'm a little concerned about the age of the thing really, and about the rust. I live in Newcastle (on the coast) and would be doing a bit of beach driving. Was a little scrappy inside (linings and so forth just need to be fixed up, no biggie), but seemed pretty cool...
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Looking at buying a FJ40
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
Looking at buying a FJ40
* Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool *
sounds like an easy pass, there should be others around for that price with next to no rust. Rust is a real pain to fix unless your going to be rebuilding the tub from scratch, and in that case there would be cheaper beaters that would do. I got my 79 diesel for $4000 covered in scratches it was, but was clean inside and had a total of about 2cm of rust on the back corners. and that was it for the entire car. Since buying mine 4years ago i have seen quite a few in the brisbane area with absolutely no rust and good tyres for 5000. I wouldn't want to pay more than 2 1/2, 3k for it.
you could always try going west a bit further to find a nice car, there are plenty around if you are willing to drive a few k.
sam
you could always try going west a bit further to find a nice car, there are plenty around if you are willing to drive a few k.
sam
I don't know much about the pricing of these things but i do know that the Rust you can see is the least of your worrys!
If theres that amount of VISABLE rust what is the rest like that you can not see (inside the chassis rails, inside the doors, sills, under the carpet etc etc)
You can be lucky and find a pretty good one from time to time!
If theres that amount of VISABLE rust what is the rest like that you can not see (inside the chassis rails, inside the doors, sills, under the carpet etc etc)
You can be lucky and find a pretty good one from time to time!
If its only surface rust it would be ok and providing there is no more in other hidden spots that is more serious its probably worth 2-3000.
If the rust is deep its worth the going price of 2nd hand motor g/box.
A good genuinely rust free example would be worth 5000 if the mechanicals and interior were ok. Its possible thats after he has owned it for 3 months he has come to the conclusion that it is beyond patching.Have a good look in the rear and at the suspension mounts where the shackles bolt on.
If the rust is deep its worth the going price of 2nd hand motor g/box.
A good genuinely rust free example would be worth 5000 if the mechanicals and interior were ok. Its possible thats after he has owned it for 3 months he has come to the conclusion that it is beyond patching.Have a good look in the rear and at the suspension mounts where the shackles bolt on.
1988 FJ 73 LX Lim Ed powered by 1HZ
1995 HZJ75 cab chassis
1995 HZJ75 cab chassis
check under the floormats and sills for rust. Also the rear end around the quarter panel and back doors. The petrol ones use a lot of fuel, the diesels are heaps better. Ask the guy why he's getting rid of it only after 3 months! Maybe there's a problem. Take it for a test drive and try it in 4 hi and 4 lo. You dont need to go offroad to do this. Just check that it engages and disengages easily and doesn't make too many noises in 4wd. Also check the driveshafts for spline wear - grab the slip joints and see if there is excess play. Good luck!!!
I paid 5k for mine and it had a Chev V8 and a roll cage. One small spot of rust under the rear door.
Petrol FJ40s have more power and torque than Diesels and are better for sand driving. That said, I would not take an old truck like that anywhere near the beach. They rust even if you hose them out every time you go on the beach.
$3k tops.
Petrol FJ40s have more power and torque than Diesels and are better for sand driving. That said, I would not take an old truck like that anywhere near the beach. They rust even if you hose them out every time you go on the beach.
$3k tops.
74 FJ40, 307, Hilux DBC, 35 Claws, welded rear.
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If you can, look around for a post '81 LX. They have disc brakes on the front, power steer, 5 speed and a few other nice things.
You can buy a good clean example for 4-6k and it will be a lot more livable for day to day driving.
Or, you can buy a SWB GQ or Bundy for the same money.
You can buy a good clean example for 4-6k and it will be a lot more livable for day to day driving.
Or, you can buy a SWB GQ or Bundy for the same money.
[quote="Wooders"]If ya want a 4x4 camry go ahead & buy a Patrol or Cruiser.[/quote]Rangie with 80s LC diffs, Isuzu 4bd1, Twin ARB lockers, 8000lb Hi mount warn, 315x75x16 Procomp XTerrains
Ah, the Bundera. Must admit I didn't look too much at those. Thanks for the offer, but actually, it seems I'm fairly settled on a MQ now! I've posted info in the Nissan thread, but in summary: 82 MQ Patrol, 31" tyres, 2.8L 6cyc petrol, fair bit of work done, 12mo rego, asking $3600. Had a drive today and it feels solid as 'ell. Thinking about making an offer tomorrow.
Thanks for your help everyone. Unless anyone can convince me of the Toyo advantage, it looks like I might be a Nissan man!
Thanks for your help everyone. Unless anyone can convince me of the Toyo advantage, it looks like I might be a Nissan man!
* Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool *
oh no, not the petrol version. the nissan is nice and solid, and especially nice if you like plastic and nice warm holes where rust nests and reproduces. I do like them, but the petrol version is meant to be a shocker for power and fuel economy. Get the diesel SD33 version instead, it has the attributes i like, and is the one redeaming feature of that nissan - without it patrols just aren't interesting.
sam
'79bj40
sam
'79bj40
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