Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Diff Conversion???
Moderator: Micka
Diff Conversion???
Hi, im starting to plan what to do with my diffs in '89 Rangie so i can run 35's.
After reading what many of you have done, i was thinking of using a GQ in the front and 80 series in the back?
Will this work? Will the track be the same?
Also does anyone know someone in Melbourne who could do the conversion and how much do you think i should budget?
Would it be cheaper to go the maxi-drive route?
Thanks
Alex
After reading what many of you have done, i was thinking of using a GQ in the front and 80 series in the back?
Will this work? Will the track be the same?
Also does anyone know someone in Melbourne who could do the conversion and how much do you think i should budget?
Would it be cheaper to go the maxi-drive route?
Thanks
Alex
Thinking something along the same lines myself. Apparently GQ front end fairly simple, rear LC80 gives driver's side offset and are plenty strong if you have a search around on the toyota pages.
Front track width is 1580 mm on the wide wheel versions of GQ.
Rear track is 1600mm on LC80 (or 1610mm on GXL).
These measurements are from Toyota and Nissan pages, I haven't run a tape measure over anything myself. I could be wrong. I'm a bit surprised that GQ is slightly narrower than LC.
No idea on cost yet, (I haven't looked that hard, no spare coin) but can probably get both diffs disc to disc for $1000 or less. Depending on how handy you are with tools, front end sounds simple. Probably cost a bit to get someone to weld suspension mounts, etc on to rear diff and then engineering if you're that way inclined.
This versus around similar money to just buy the toy diff centres if going that route, jacmac axles for around $1400 for both ends, Messing around to convert to stronger CVs (longfields, etc aren't cheap). Guys on here have said around $2500+ if you can't do all the work yourself and thats without strengthened CVs.
For Maxidrive or jacmac diffs you're looking at a lot of money. $1500ish each end and then $1000+ to change diff ratios, then I guess axles and CVs on top of that. For that price though you get lockers.
Too rich for me, but the bonus is about 1 and a half inches of diff clearance under the orig Rover diff vs nissan/LC.
Have a search around, there is much more specific info on here. All above is just from lurking and reading what others have done.
Adam.
Front track width is 1580 mm on the wide wheel versions of GQ.
Rear track is 1600mm on LC80 (or 1610mm on GXL).
These measurements are from Toyota and Nissan pages, I haven't run a tape measure over anything myself. I could be wrong. I'm a bit surprised that GQ is slightly narrower than LC.
No idea on cost yet, (I haven't looked that hard, no spare coin) but can probably get both diffs disc to disc for $1000 or less. Depending on how handy you are with tools, front end sounds simple. Probably cost a bit to get someone to weld suspension mounts, etc on to rear diff and then engineering if you're that way inclined.
This versus around similar money to just buy the toy diff centres if going that route, jacmac axles for around $1400 for both ends, Messing around to convert to stronger CVs (longfields, etc aren't cheap). Guys on here have said around $2500+ if you can't do all the work yourself and thats without strengthened CVs.
For Maxidrive or jacmac diffs you're looking at a lot of money. $1500ish each end and then $1000+ to change diff ratios, then I guess axles and CVs on top of that. For that price though you get lockers.
Too rich for me, but the bonus is about 1 and a half inches of diff clearance under the orig Rover diff vs nissan/LC.
Have a search around, there is much more specific info on here. All above is just from lurking and reading what others have done.
Adam.
'92 GQ
Hopefully more reliable than my rangie...
Hopefully more reliable than my rangie...
had the same dilema and decided on strengthening the originals cause:
1. nissan/toyo diffs in Tassie quoted at 1-1.500k each - no guarantee on quality;
2. rover has greater diff clearance;
3. can rotate rover stubs easily to correct castor - just slot holes etc;
4. no need to DIY engineering, and no cost to get this done;
5. no brake line/tailshaft matching issues and different spares to carry.
Given that the cost/inconvenience of purchasing diffs etc and getting work done was not much less than modifying the existing diffs, we choose to JacMac the front end - Nissan CVs, JM axles, stronger drive flanges and air locker and upgrade the rear to Series 2 axles and JM locker. Total cost was 3300 for front, 1200 for rear. Will be doing the R&P next for 1K - only need if going above 33's.
Best of all, the parts just fitted straight in, they still look original to Mr Plod and was no major down time or farting about! We have beaten the crap out of the drive train and so far (touch wood) no breakages! PS resale value of modification is also much higher than yota/nissan bits.
1. nissan/toyo diffs in Tassie quoted at 1-1.500k each - no guarantee on quality;
2. rover has greater diff clearance;
3. can rotate rover stubs easily to correct castor - just slot holes etc;
4. no need to DIY engineering, and no cost to get this done;
5. no brake line/tailshaft matching issues and different spares to carry.
Given that the cost/inconvenience of purchasing diffs etc and getting work done was not much less than modifying the existing diffs, we choose to JacMac the front end - Nissan CVs, JM axles, stronger drive flanges and air locker and upgrade the rear to Series 2 axles and JM locker. Total cost was 3300 for front, 1200 for rear. Will be doing the R&P next for 1K - only need if going above 33's.
Best of all, the parts just fitted straight in, they still look original to Mr Plod and was no major down time or farting about! We have beaten the crap out of the drive train and so far (touch wood) no breakages! PS resale value of modification is also much higher than yota/nissan bits.
Nice gq swb ute chop with a huffer for the good times
I dont know why anyone would bother using a GQ front as the axles and C.V.'s are as weak as piss, you'd be better of using the 80 front BUT then you end up with a crappy high pinion diff that WILL break if given less than mild abuse in reverse, i'd use a GU front or wouldn't bother with converting
Wanted: Car trailer or beaver tail truck, let me know what you got
Dunno about the aftermarket stuff but then you have to add that on the purchase price, i seen plenty of busted front GQ axles usually well before the C.V. joints let goSlunnie wrote:I was under the impression that HD CV's for the GQ were strong, and the GU's were similar due to the outer shaft diameter.
I personally don't know why everyone wants to convert, most people do fine for years running maxi/jackmac/arb axles lockers etc. you just have to ask yourself what your doing with the car, me i abuse crap out of mine but i'm not competing which gives me the opportunity to try again not hold it pinned all the time, and i have been running KAM 4.11 and maxis(second handies to) without drama
Wanted: Car trailer or beaver tail truck, let me know what you got
If I do sell these, would prefer to sell as complete units as I doubt anyone would want to buy the axles themselves..6.5 rangie wrote:Are you going to part this gear, MAY be interested in the longfields.I MAY have a set of axles already converted to 4.5 Toyota centres with Longfield cv's up for sale in the not too distant future if anyone is interested
Damien
But if I do decide to part out will let you know..
He just jealous his wife said NO to a GT Forrestermickrangie wrote:we are going to put 35" simexs on his WRX......landy_man wrote:Yes and no... Think I might be selling the Disco, parting out the Rangie and building something that can do both jobs..Loanrangie wrote:Craig, what ya doing ? getting rid of your landy's ?
maybe but mine is letting me keep my rangielandy_man wrote:He just jealous his wife said NO to a GT Forrestermickrangie wrote:we are going to put 35" simexs on his WRX......landy_man wrote:Yes and no... Think I might be selling the Disco, parting out the Rangie and building something that can do both jobs..Loanrangie wrote:Craig, what ya doing ? getting rid of your landy's ?
TD5 96 Discovery UTE.
Does anyone know someone in Melbourne apart from Macnamara that will do a toy conversion, i have no idea when it comes to diffs and need help with the work.
Macnamara quoted
$1300 for front and rear axles
$400 ish for each diff centre ( price from a few wreackers)
$1500 for labour aprox
Does $3600 sound reasonable?
Is it worth the $$$
Macnamara quoted
$1300 for front and rear axles
$400 ish for each diff centre ( price from a few wreackers)
$1500 for labour aprox
Does $3600 sound reasonable?
Is it worth the $$$
I'm not ready to do it just yet. My rear diff is making lots of bad noise and i'm just waiting for something to break, so i want to do as much research and planning now so when it goes i know what do do. I don't want to waste money on fixxing the standard diff when they are useless.
I use the Rangie for work so cant afford alot of down time.
I'm only running 32" tyres at the moment, (35's a years or so off) so i was thinking of using the toy conversion with 4.1's so i can still drive on 32's for a while.
Would 4.3's or higher be too low to drive with 32's on?
I use the Rangie for work so cant afford alot of down time.
I'm only running 32" tyres at the moment, (35's a years or so off) so i was thinking of using the toy conversion with 4.1's so i can still drive on 32's for a while.
Would 4.3's or higher be too low to drive with 32's on?
4.11's would be ok, $1500 for labour !!!!!!! if you get all the parts together you can do it in a day. you can get away with only buying 1 front axle and using a lc 60 series long side in the front as landyman did.
Saddle up tonto, its the not so loanrangie! . 98 TDI DISCO lightly modded with more to come.
sounds reasonable to me given the work involved, but you don't get diff locks, and so when priced in, may be easier to go the JacMac locker/axles/Nissan CV route, albeit need R&P for 35's....a bit more though!
I think you'll get the same prices elswhere cause of the time/work involved...
OR find a mate who can do it for you for beer!
I think you'll get the same prices elswhere cause of the time/work involved...
OR find a mate who can do it for you for beer!
Nice gq swb ute chop with a huffer for the good times
80 series are 4.1:1, you would need to change CW & pinion for 4.3:1. The other problem is that GQ front are not close enough to 4.3:1.Vogue wrote:...Would 4.3's or higher be too low to drive with 32's on?
100 series are 4.3:1 but then the wheel stud pattern will not match.
If you stick to 4.1:1 then 80 series rear and GU front, while not exactly the same, are close enough.
John
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 34 guests