Virtual Lift

[CanberraMav]

Can someone post pictures of a virtual lift being done to a sierra??

Ive checked search and ive checked "stumped's" build up where there used to be pictures but they have all dissapeared.

Any help or instructions would be apreciated before i destroy my Suzuki even further.

[Trimixer]

Have a look at this.
http://www.izook.com/tech/samurai/body/ ... lwells.htm
I've done one. Do teh rear first. The front is a bit tricky. make sure you have good tin snips, a MIG welder and a big hammer.

[ofr57]

rhett has done it too ... shoot him a pm

[Gwagensteve]

Have a look at this.
http://www.izook.com/tech/samurai/body/ ... lwells.htm
I've done one. Do teh rear first. The front is a bit tricky. make sure you have good tin snips, a MIG welder and a big hammer.

Do the rear first???????? If the tyres are hitting on the back then they are all over everything on the front. The first tyre/guard conact on a sierra is with the seam on the floor/firewall and the vertical seam on the firewall. Next is the headlight bucket.

If the rears are hitting before the fronts then you should swap to the same size tyres all round because the "big n little" look is like, so out

IMHO the rear is harder to do than the front because the rear is a PITA if if it doesn't seal up. the front is easy because it is only the firewall bit that matters- after that it can all be open.

PS having migged up two virtual lifts, I don't want to do it again until I get a TIG.

Steve.

[CanberraMav]

On the izook link they just used rivetts for everything.
My wheels scrape on all 4 corners as i have massive offset rims.
At the moment the zook stands on 31x11.5 mudzillas. I have RUF with Hilux fronts on the rear and 2 inch extended shackles.

The problem is that the tyres hit on the flares so thats why i want to move them up. Or maybe get rid of them all together????What do you think that would look like??The zook sit very low. maybe 2 inches of the top of the tyre.

I was trying to avoid a bodylift.

I want the zook to look OK but doesnt have to be anything special at all. Its mostly a trail rig but will be in comps so dont want it looking too booty fab.

Any suggestions??

[Gwagensteve]

I like the sound of your build CanberraMav

I would do a body lift. For some reason North of the border, they don't work at all. no idea why. IMHO they are really useful fit getting a tyre under the car without completely stuffing the COG.

You will get a better, quicker result with a BL and then cut to suit from there. If you try to do it all will cutting, based on the specs you have posted, you will be cut into the bonnet without a BL.

If you have 2" from the tyre to the guard, it won't be excessively high at all with a BL and you should get away with pretty minimal cutting.

Sounds like it would flex pretty well though and havre really nice balance.

Steve.

[Pinball]

The other half of Point n Shoot is copping virtual at the moment, if Sylvester ever gets his shit together there should be an article...

Decision was made to mod the rear first as it was an easier job to tub without the accessories present in the engine bay... i believe..

I will shoot him a email tomorrow and encourage him to post with more info.

Spock

[CanberraMav]

Steve wrote:
I like the sound of your build CanberraMav

I would do a body lift. For some reason North of the border, they don't work at all. no idea why. IMHO they are really useful fit getting a tyre under the car without completely stuffing the COG.

You will get a better, quicker result with a BL and then cut to suit from there. If you try to do it all will cutting, based on the specs you have posted, you will be cut into the bonnet without a BL.

If you have 2" from the tyre to the guard, it won't be excessively high at all with a BL and you should get away with pretty minimal cutting.

Sounds like it would flex pretty well though and havre really nice balance.

Steve.

Thanks steve.
I think ill use your advise and do the bodylift then trim to suit.

The zook sits 2 inch from tyre to flare so i figured if they were removed i would gain an inch or so. I havnt seen one without the flare so im reluctant to take them off at the moment. If they come off they wont be easy to get back on. (all the screws etc are rusted)

Im going to post some pics soon in my members thread.

Thanks for your comments

[Trimixer]

Mine was a 12 month rebuild after a roll and a half. There were plenty of other things to do but I didn't want a body lift and had 31*10*15 muds. I have 2 inch shackle lift but the rest is standard. I removed the flares (good move) to reveal all the rust and it was easier to cut it all away and do the VL while we had it inside. I still reakon it was easier to do the rear first. We just marked the line we wanted (top of the inside wheel arch), cut to within 40 mm of it and snipped in at 40 mm apart leaving tabs that we bent up. Then slipped in a 100 mm stirp of 20 gauge sheet and Miged it inside and out. Didn't have any problems with sealing it. The fire wall is tricky but we got it pretty right and then hammered flat any further contact points. I have a 2 inch body lift kit but didn't bother to fit it. And I'm still spring under.
I had to make it road legal over here. Just added a 150 mm wide strip of rubber to the new flare and have legal guards.
Steve.

[Shorty40]

I would do a body lift. For some reason North of the border, they don't work at all. no idea why.

Probably similar reasons to why SPOA doesn't seem to work South of the border