About to do a body lift on a landcruiser ute, anything that i need to watch out for?
-brake lines
-radiator
-steering
-fuel filler
-handbrake....etc
What diameter body blocks have people been using?
thanks in advance Mat
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Body Lift 75 Series Landcruiser Ute
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
Body Lift 75 Series Landcruiser Ute
MY04 Jeep Wrangler
MY07 SS Ute
MY07 SS Ute
I used boat rollers to do mine. They were approx 75mm for the big ones and 55mm for the small ones. If you are only going about 2" high you should not have to worry about anything, except, you will need to take a little bit off the bottom of your radiator shroud so the fan doesnt hit it. I used cut up boat rollers because they are still rubber. If you go this way you will also need to make up new crush tubes the right length. It all cost me about $60- $70 and that was for a midi so twice as many mounts as what you have.
The brake lines are on the chassis so no worries there
The tank is fit to the tub so no worries with the fuel filler
There is enough play in the spline on the steering (they slide and adjust) so no problems there.
Fuel lines should be fine as well.
I modified my handbrake so dont know for sure, but I think it would have plenty of play. they have to allow lots of movement for wheel articulation so I dont think a 2"- 3" body lift will affect anything.
Cheers.
Dave.
The brake lines are on the chassis so no worries there
The tank is fit to the tub so no worries with the fuel filler
There is enough play in the spline on the steering (they slide and adjust) so no problems there.
Fuel lines should be fine as well.
I modified my handbrake so dont know for sure, but I think it would have plenty of play. they have to allow lots of movement for wheel articulation so I dont think a 2"- 3" body lift will affect anything.
Cheers.
Dave.
I did a 3" on my old 93 model ute.
Brake lines were ok - just stretch out the coils a bit.
Steering was ok.
I had to heat the low range gear lever and bend it forward and remove the inner boots of both levers (this maybe one piece, can't remember).
The upper radiator mounts I pulled off and turned upside down and still spaced them down a little bit. I used a couple of pieces of flat going from the original holes in the rad back to the original mounting holes. This kept the shroud intact and looked more original and no chance of kinked houses etc.
I had a turbo so had to lengthen the intake hose from the aircleaner housing to the turbo.
I had put a styleside on mine with reserve tank, so had to lengthen both fuel fillers.
Lengthened tail light wiring.
Modified Bullbar mounts to lift it aswell.
Think I had to adjust the hand brake cable.
It's been about 4 years since I did it, so testing my memory here, but that was about it I think.
Brake lines were ok - just stretch out the coils a bit.
Steering was ok.
I had to heat the low range gear lever and bend it forward and remove the inner boots of both levers (this maybe one piece, can't remember).
The upper radiator mounts I pulled off and turned upside down and still spaced them down a little bit. I used a couple of pieces of flat going from the original holes in the rad back to the original mounting holes. This kept the shroud intact and looked more original and no chance of kinked houses etc.
I had a turbo so had to lengthen the intake hose from the aircleaner housing to the turbo.
I had put a styleside on mine with reserve tank, so had to lengthen both fuel fillers.
Lengthened tail light wiring.
Modified Bullbar mounts to lift it aswell.
Think I had to adjust the hand brake cable.
It's been about 4 years since I did it, so testing my memory here, but that was about it I think.
nothing you probably havent already heard from above but when i did mine i did have a problem with my hand brake cable being to tight and pulling hard against the rear mount on the diff.(you know the one). so i just cut it off and re welded it so it sat better. Mabe a drive shaft mounted hand break like the one superior sell for the hiluxs could be a better option. my blocks are solid aluminum from snake about 50mm diameter.
also every one has there own thoughts about the radiator but i just took my old one to a sheet metal shop and got them to make me a sweet looking aluminum one from 3mm, and they just made it with the fan hole 2" down. only cost 350 bucks. engine also runs cooler.
good luck
busty
also every one has there own thoughts about the radiator but i just took my old one to a sheet metal shop and got them to make me a sweet looking aluminum one from 3mm, and they just made it with the fan hole 2" down. only cost 350 bucks. engine also runs cooler.
good luck
busty
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