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Clutch swap? Is it a big job to do at home?
Clutch swap? Is it a big job to do at home?
Hey guys,
Im up for a new clutch soon and was wondering if its easy enough to do at home.
I did a search and a few people said they would never do it again but didnt mention why.
Can it be done with the engine in the car? My car has a spring and bodylift so I imagine this will help a little.
Also are the safari clutches I read about still the best to get? I will be towing a car and trailer regulary and give the car a hard time in the bush.
Who makes the safari clutches?
Thanks again,
Dan
Im up for a new clutch soon and was wondering if its easy enough to do at home.
I did a search and a few people said they would never do it again but didnt mention why.
Can it be done with the engine in the car? My car has a spring and bodylift so I imagine this will help a little.
Also are the safari clutches I read about still the best to get? I will be towing a car and trailer regulary and give the car a hard time in the bush.
Who makes the safari clutches?
Thanks again,
Dan
SWB mav. Some mods.
Nah was fairly simple used an engine crane trough the doors with a chain through where the gear stick is.dansedgli wrote:Cool, so there was no dramas getting the box out of the car with the engine in?
I'd rather do it myself after spending $1400 today at the mechanics to get my LPG, petrol and ignition system in top order :(
Mine had a 2" sus and 2 " body was a bit of a pain getting back on and lined up but was funny looking back.
www.mudrhino.com.au
They are so bloody heavy! GQ is 180kg with transfer case I read somewhere and the b##tard needs to be rotated on the fly, although a body lift might help with that.
When the time comes on the GQ I will pull the engine do the clutch/presure plate, rear main seal, spigot and throwout with easy access on the ground next to the car .
cheers fnq
When the time comes on the GQ I will pull the engine do the clutch/presure plate, rear main seal, spigot and throwout with easy access on the ground next to the car .
cheers fnq
*JUST LUV IT* 96 GQ LWB TD4.2, Cav, Kings, Dobinsons, Motorguard, Enginesaver, 400 pro, Cooper ST's (rolls eyes), fleetguard oil filters, Delo 400 engine oil, Delo ESI gearbox oil and an RTC.
Daiken safari was the clutch to use, until PBR now making the 4 terrain unit which is another big step up over the safari unit.
I spent some time talking to the manufacturers before fitting mine up this afternoon, preparing for my madigan line trip next week, and I still had the standard clutch with 37"s and double the torque and kw at the rear wheels, so thought being 4 tonne, and climbing spinifex covered dunes, i better upgrade the clutch before I left.
I spent some time talking to the manufacturers before fitting mine up this afternoon, preparing for my madigan line trip next week, and I still had the standard clutch with 37"s and double the torque and kw at the rear wheels, so thought being 4 tonne, and climbing spinifex covered dunes, i better upgrade the clutch before I left.
Yeah thats what I read for the 5sp+transfer 180kg - would be nice if it is wrong!
cheers fnq
cheers fnq
Last edited by fnqcairns on Wed Jun 07, 2006 7:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
*JUST LUV IT* 96 GQ LWB TD4.2, Cav, Kings, Dobinsons, Motorguard, Enginesaver, 400 pro, Cooper ST's (rolls eyes), fleetguard oil filters, Delo 400 engine oil, Delo ESI gearbox oil and an RTC.
2" bodylift helps heaps. biggest problem is bell housing clearing footwell where starter motor bolts on as theres bugger all room to rotate it and the box is that damn heavy!!
I've done 2 (different trucks). one as described with chainblock above with gearbox and t/c complete. The other underneath with trolley jacks seperating boxes. The latter is easier, but be warned as the transfer case weighs nearly as much as the friggin gearbox
Its not a HARD job, but its not a FUN job either. If you can afford it pay someone, if you can't do it yourself - not that bad, just heavy, awkward and damn uncomfortable. Allow 2 days in and out.
I've done 2 (different trucks). one as described with chainblock above with gearbox and t/c complete. The other underneath with trolley jacks seperating boxes. The latter is easier, but be warned as the transfer case weighs nearly as much as the friggin gearbox
Its not a HARD job, but its not a FUN job either. If you can afford it pay someone, if you can't do it yourself - not that bad, just heavy, awkward and damn uncomfortable. Allow 2 days in and out.
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Premiers 1999, 2007, 2009
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Has anyone done a clutch with a proper transmission jack? One that you bolt up to the gearbox and has functionality to rotate / angle the gearbox while installing etc?
My experience with 4WD clutches has so far been limited to Toyotas (like the patrol - very heavy box), but with the proper trans jack, no problem at all. The hardest part is getting everything else (exhaust, bash plates, hoses, drive shafts etc). out of the way. The actual gearbox removal and clutch replacement process is easy (like 20 minutes easy).
Doing a transmission with a floor jack / jacks would be a total nightmare - and dangerous imho.
Usually rent the jack for a day from a hire place for about $50 ... worth every cent!
My experience with 4WD clutches has so far been limited to Toyotas (like the patrol - very heavy box), but with the proper trans jack, no problem at all. The hardest part is getting everything else (exhaust, bash plates, hoses, drive shafts etc). out of the way. The actual gearbox removal and clutch replacement process is easy (like 20 minutes easy).
Doing a transmission with a floor jack / jacks would be a total nightmare - and dangerous imho.
Usually rent the jack for a day from a hire place for about $50 ... worth every cent!
If it's worth doing - it's worth doing to excess ...
The safari clutches are made by Exedy.
http://www.exedy.com.au/
Changing it with a body lift shouldn't be too hard, especially if you have the right tools to properly align the clutch plate so that the gearbox slides in easily.
Do the spigot bush and rear main oil seal at the same time. They are frigging heavy boxes and you don't want to pull it out again. If you're changing it yourself, just remember that you will probably have to adjust the clutch pedal travel in the car as well.
It a job that it'll be a lot easier if you've got a mate to help.
http://www.exedy.com.au/
Changing it with a body lift shouldn't be too hard, especially if you have the right tools to properly align the clutch plate so that the gearbox slides in easily.
Do the spigot bush and rear main oil seal at the same time. They are frigging heavy boxes and you don't want to pull it out again. If you're changing it yourself, just remember that you will probably have to adjust the clutch pedal travel in the car as well.
It a job that it'll be a lot easier if you've got a mate to help.
Kennards definately have them - have hired one three or four times for 4WD clutch swaps ... shop around though as I have found Kennards to be more expensive than other hire places for shop equipment ...
They are essentially just a trolley jack with a large bracket on top, the bracket bolts up to your transmission (a "universal type" - kinda like an engine stand in the way that the arms are positioned to your individual trans). There are knobs (usually 1/2" drive + knurled) to adjust side / side forward/back tilt / rotate ...
I wouldn't attempt to change a clutch / gearbox in a heavy 4WD without one ...
They are essentially just a trolley jack with a large bracket on top, the bracket bolts up to your transmission (a "universal type" - kinda like an engine stand in the way that the arms are positioned to your individual trans). There are knobs (usually 1/2" drive + knurled) to adjust side / side forward/back tilt / rotate ...
I wouldn't attempt to change a clutch / gearbox in a heavy 4WD without one ...
If it's worth doing - it's worth doing to excess ...
Mate all to easy with proper workshop i have got three inch suspension and two inch body lift and i have mastered it and can do clutch flywheel and rear main in two and a half hours. the best way i found was put car up on hoist undo all bell housing and all the tail shaft and all the bits and pieces lower the car and put an old school table under the gearbox undo crossmember bolts lever the box back and bobs your uncle lift the car up and start on the clutch i would not recomend doing this at home with out proper equipment as hte others have said the boxis 180kgs not worth the back ache if you ask me
Took my 5 speed out of MK 2 weeks ago, with Engine hoist through Drivers Cab, with a rope around the Box, no worries mate, just work safe, I would not recommend using Trolley Jacks!!!!!
I left the Rear Gearbox mounting plates on, kept the box level till it was out of the motor, then let it down, no probs!!
Good Luck.
Mike.
I left the Rear Gearbox mounting plates on, kept the box level till it was out of the motor, then let it down, no probs!!
Good Luck.
Mike.
they are not 180kg. they are 146kg for the box and transfer (manual) I weighed it myself on trade scales. and the transfer is light as, i lifted dual transfers on myself and aligned them lying on the ground. i had a pallet on the fork drove it under than lifted the box up by hand. and i'm a little fella
cheers bru
cheers bru
ADHD Racing would like to thank
Mrs Bru @ Sunshine Coast Developmental Physiotherapy - www.scdphysio.com.au , Ryano @ Fourbys www.generaltire.com.au Blitzkrieg Motorsport
Mrs Bru @ Sunshine Coast Developmental Physiotherapy - www.scdphysio.com.au , Ryano @ Fourbys www.generaltire.com.au Blitzkrieg Motorsport
146kg is still fawkin heavy, but with either the right gear, or a few mates the job is do able at home, thanks for the accurate info though Brubru21 wrote:they are not 180kg. they are 146kg for the box and transfer (manual) I weighed it myself on trade scales. and the transfer is light as, i lifted dual transfers on myself and aligned them lying on the ground. i had a pallet on the fork drove it under than lifted the box up by hand. and i'm a little fella
cheers bru
Thanks for the info guys, and for the offers to do it for me.
Once I get the car back from the mechanics Ill look into getting one of those jacks. No doubt it would come in handy for working on the other car too. Ive got to take the box out of that and refit a new box and shape the trans tunnel to suit the bigger box.
Once I get the car back from the mechanics Ill look into getting one of those jacks. No doubt it would come in handy for working on the other car too. Ive got to take the box out of that and refit a new box and shape the trans tunnel to suit the bigger box.
SWB mav. Some mods.
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