OK HAD ENOUGH

[millers1]

Hi All, have noticed again for the third time now grease on the inside of front drivers side wheel rim. Diff oil leaking into hubs then leaking out between backing plate and discs. Im getting sick of replacing the axle seal. Last time about 3 weeks ago been used once since in 4wd and already has leaked again. Have replaced brake pads last time as they were stuffed from the grease at $80 for pads and $110 for knuckle kit from don kyatt is starting to bother me. First 1 (axle seal) was toyota, second was don kytte, third time I thought I'd go genuine again to make sure and same result. Last time was done by my mate who is a mechanic incase I was doing some thing wrong and still back to square one again.WHY would this be continuing to happen.Diff breather is clear not blocked.Everything was even done up to toyota specs eg wheel bearing nut etc,axle seemed to be sitting central not leaning or being forced to one side,only thing I can think of is the axle has been scored where the axle seal runs but looked ok to me and mechanic. What other possible causes would be creating this problem. Wife is getting really bleep off of me wanting $200 every month for the same problem, any advice or help would be greatly appreciated to solve this annoying and expensive problem. Thankyou Regards Steve M

[carts]

Its probably not a bad idea to get the car on an aligning machine and check to see if the diff housing is straight. Any misalignment of the axle/cv will chew the inner axle seal out.

Have you done a housing rebuild kit, including all bearings and seals, rather than just axle seals?

[Simo63]

Hi Miller

Sounds annoying. A few more details on the vehicle might help others give you some advice. My experience has been with 80 series and GQ Nissans but common sense would lead me to think that a couple of things might be causing it. First thing you might look at is a bent housing, or a bent axle (unlikely) or maybe worn swivel hub bearings .. with either of these you might expect the new inner seal to cop a flogging and subsequently leak oil into the CV housing. The bent housing (bent up at the end so more negative camber) will cause the axle to rub on the top of the seal and leak at the bottom. I think worn swivel hub bearings will do the same .. allow the wheel to lean over and cause the axle to not sit centre in the seal. A bent drive shaft will just flog the seal out. I would look at the swivel hub bearings first if the vehicle has done a few miles, the axle housing if it's been driven hard off road and then the axle.

I am assuming of course that everything is being done correctly (you did say your mechanic mate had a go as well) and that the bearing seal on the drive shaft is all good.

If it was a simple as a blocked breather, you would probably find it happening to both sides not just the one.

Hope this helps
Simo

[gotoy]

You state you have replaced the axle seals. So heres my question:

Did you bother to replace the axle bearing? Inner and outer?

If they have malfunction, crrused, trased or whatever they will leak.

Had it on my rear axle a few months back.

[beanz2]

My guess is that on the first time it was rebuilt the shims under the steering arm and bearing cap were not properly reinstalled. Unless the original shims were reinstalled in exact same position or new shims were installed using Toyota's Special Service Tool (SST 09634-60013 - seen in the first link below) , the swivel housing may not be centered on the diff housing. This makes the axle shaft off centre with respect to the seal and leads to premature wear on the seal.

The shim thicknesses are not always equal on the top (steering arm, vice versa on the 78/79/80) and the bottom (bearing cap, vice versa on the 78/79/80). When the swivel housing was machined at the factory, there may be enough minute differences in the result to throw the CV, therefore the inner axle, off centre. Which is why Toyota recommends using the SST when reinstalling the shims.

This is the factory recommended procedure from Birfield.com:
http://www.birfield.com/manuals/cb1980/6_11.jpg
http://www.birfield.com/manuals/cb1980/6_12.jpg
http://www.birfield.com/manuals/cb1980/6_13.jpg

Hope this helps,
Dave

[millers1]

Its probably not a bad idea to get the car on an aligning machine and check to see if the diff housing is straight. Any misalignment of the axle/cv will chew the inner axle seal out.

Have you done a housing rebuild kit, including all bearings and seals, rather than just axle seals?

Sorry but is a 89 hilux dual cab soild front end and all parts were put in new, wheel bearings etc everthing was new 3 times round except wheel bearings was only the first time, vehicle has never had a wheel alignment as the tyres dont scrub so didnt think was needed and did not have one proir to new springs being put in by TJM and they did not tell me one is required. Maybe that is the first thing I need to do seems to be a general consenus between all the replys. Regards Steve M

[millers1]

Hi Miller

Sounds annoying. A few more details on the vehicle might help others give you some advice. My experience has been with 80 series and GQ Nissans but common sense would lead me to think that a couple of things might be causing it. First thing you might look at is a bent housing, or a bent axle (unlikely) or maybe worn swivel hub bearings .. with either of these you might expect the new inner seal to cop a flogging and subsequently leak oil into the CV housing. The bent housing (bent up at the end so more negative camber) will cause the axle to rub on the top of the seal and leak at the bottom. I think worn swivel hub bearings will do the same .. allow the wheel to lean over and cause the axle to not sit centre in the seal. A bent drive shaft will just flog the seal out. I would look at the swivel hub bearings first if the vehicle has done a few miles, the axle housing if it's been driven hard off road and then the axle.

I am assuming of course that everything is being done correctly (you did say your mechanic mate had a go as well) and that the bearing seal on the drive shaft is all good.

If it was a simple as a blocked breather, you would probably find it happening to both sides not just the one. Sorry but is a 89 hilux dual cab soild front end and all parts were put in new, wheel bearings etc everthing was new 3 times round except wheel bearings was only the first time, vehicle has never had a wheel alignment as the tyres dont scrub so didnt think was needed and did not have one proir to new springs being put in by TJM and they did not tell me one is required. Maybe that is the first thing I need to do seems to be a general consenus between all the replys. Regards Steve M

Hope this helps
Simo

[millers1]

You state you have replaced the axle seals. So heres my question:

Did you bother to replace the axle bearing? Inner and outer?

If they have malfunction, crrused, trased or whatever they will leak.

Had it on my rear axle a few months back.

Sorry 89 model hilux dual cab 2.8D with solid front end and yes all new parts 3 times round except wheel bearings they were put in on the first time only. Regards Steve M

[millers1]

My guess is that on the first time it was rebuilt the shims under the steering arm and bearing cap were not properly reinstalled. Unless the original shims were reinstalled in exact same position or new shims were installed using Toyota's Special Service Tool (SST 09634-60013 - seen in the first link below) , the swivel housing may not be centered on the diff housing. This makes the axle shaft off centre with respect to the seal and leads to premature wear on the seal.

The shim thicknesses are not always equal on the top (steering arm, vice versa on the 78/79/80) and the bottom (bearing cap, vice versa on the 78/79/80). When the swivel housing was machined at the factory, there may be enough minute differences in the result to throw the CV, therefore the inner axle, off centre. Which is why Toyota recommends using the SST when reinstalling the shims. As said in other replys I think a wheel alighnment is the go first off by the sounds of it. Regards Steve M

This is the factory recommended procedure from Birfield.com:
http://www.birfield.com/manuals/cb1980/6_11.jpg
http://www.birfield.com/manuals/cb1980/6_12.jpg
http://www.birfield.com/manuals/cb1980/6_13.jpg

Hope this helps,
Dave

[playdoh]

Its probably not a bad idea to get the car on an aligning machine and check to see if the diff housing is straight. Any misalignment of the axle/cv will chew the inner axle seal out.

This is a good idea, I had the same problem with the rear of my old 4Runner, there was a slight bend in the axle housing, it was chewing through axle seals like there was no tomorrow, only found out it was bent after one of the bearings collapsed.

[simkell]

have you checked the spindle bush, the brinze bush in the spindle. if this is worn it will cause the axle to wobble in the housing so to speak and flog out the seal prematurely. also it check that the oil slinger in the housing isn't damaged as this will cause the seal to work harder. good luck let us know what the problem was.

[millers1]

have you checked the spindle bush, the brinze bush in the spindle. if this is worn it will cause the axle to wobble in the housing so to speak and flog out the seal prematurely. also it check that the oil slinger in the housing isn't damaged as this will cause the seal to work harder. good luck let us know what the problem was.

Thanks for that will check out those things as I have never replaced any bronze bush or the like, or the oil slinger, didnt see any thing like this in the gregorys manual and mechanic said nothing to me either will ring him tommorow he's a mate of mine and will mention these things to him. Thankyou Regards Steve M

[crankycruiser]

Have u bent the diff housing?? It doesnt take much

[millers1]

Have u bent the diff housing?? It doesnt take much

hi there cranky cruiser, no I dont think so but Im going to book it in for a wheel alighnment that seems to be the general consensus from the replys, are you actually saying that the diff is bent due to a wheel alighment and this can be rectified by getting one done, or are you saying the diff housing is warped twisted and stuffed and will require new diff housing. Please excuse my ignorance on this matter but I didnt realize a diff could be twisted out of shape due to an incorrect alighnment, so the general consensus is that by getting a wheel alighnment done will pull the diff back into correct shape/position, ??? and be the possible cause for this oil leak. ??? Regards Steve M

[millers1]

Its probably not a bad idea to get the car on an aligning machine and check to see if the diff housing is straight. Any misalignment of the axle/cv will chew the inner axle seal out.

This is a good idea, I had the same problem with the rear of my old 4Runner, there was a slight bend in the axle housing, it was chewing through axle seals like there was no tomorrow, only found out it was bent after one of the bearings collapsed.

Im going to book it in for a wheel alighnment that seems to be the general consensus from the replys, are you actually saying that the diff is bent due to a wheel alighment and this can be rectified by getting one done, or are you saying the diff housing is warped twisted and stuffed and will require new diff housing. Please excuse my ignorance on this matter but I didnt realize a diff could be twisted out of shape due to an incorrect alighnment, so the general consensus is that by getting a wheel alighnment done will pull the diff back into correct shape/position, ??? and be the possible cause for this oil leak. ??? Regards Steve M

[millers1]

Hi Miller

Sounds annoying. A few more details on the vehicle might help others give you some advice. My experience has been with 80 series and GQ Nissans but common sense would lead me to think that a couple of things might be causing it. First thing you might look at is a bent housing, or a bent axle (unlikely) or maybe worn swivel hub bearings .. with either of these you might expect the new inner seal to cop a flogging and subsequently leak oil into the CV housing. The bent housing (bent up at the end so more negative camber) will cause the axle to rub on the top of the seal and leak at the bottom. I think worn swivel hub bearings will do the same .. allow the wheel to lean over and cause the axle to not sit centre in the seal. A bent drive shaft will just flog the seal out. I would look at the swivel hub bearings first if the vehicle has done a few miles, the axle housing if it's been driven hard off road and then the axle.

I am assuming of course that everything is being done correctly (you did say your mechanic mate had a go as well) and that the bearing seal on the drive shaft is all good.

If it was a simple as a blocked breather, you would probably find it happening to both sides not just the one. Thanks Simo, will book in for a whell alighnment next week and see what comes of that, I have never had an alighment done before and after the new springs were fitted never been alighned. If the alighnment is out could that be an issue with it leaking, I have heard somthing about wedges that could bring into alighnment and also shims and I know these have never been touched. Regards Steve M

Hope this helps
Simo

[carts]

Unfortunately, getting a wheel alignment done will not fix a bent housing. Putting the vehicle on an aligning machine will hopefully be able to tell you if the housing is straight or not. It will also give you an indication of camber (which can indicate a bent housing), which may or may not be able to be fixed with offset swivel hub bearings.

Good luck with it all!