Has anyone had the same problem (TD42)

Post by **TOPLUX** » Thu Jun 15, 2006 5:05 pm

I have a GU td42 6cyl troll and every time its under load beach bush etc (high and low range) it over heats repeatably. Every thing under the bonnet is sweat so i don't know whats going on... if anyone has the same 4b and has had the same problem what has been done to resolve it?

Post by **bad_religion_au** » Thu Jun 15, 2006 5:35 pm

TOPLUX wrote:I have a GU td42 6cyl troll and every time its under load beach bush etc (high and low range) it over heats repeatably. Every thing under the bonnet is sweat so i don't know whats going on... if anyone has the same 4b and has had the same problem what has been done to resolve it?

head problem? flushed the radiator/ cooling system

Post by **kempster1** » Thu Jun 15, 2006 5:42 pm

Fan Clutch

Post by **HotFourOk** » Thu Jun 15, 2006 5:43 pm

TOPLUX wrote:Every thing under the bonnet is sweat so i don't know whats going on...

Well, I dont think much other than 'under the bonnet' is left to look at which may the cause of overheating. If everything is 'sweet' you've got no dramas.

Check this... then check the fan

Well, what do you know

... another topic with the same stuff in it

Post by **TOPLUX** » Thu Jun 15, 2006 5:43 pm

done the radiator flush, made no difference

Post by **cloughy** » Thu Jun 15, 2006 5:56 pm

Checked the timing lately??

Post by **Madmac** » Thu Jun 15, 2006 5:58 pm

TOPLUX wrote:done the radiator flush, made no difference

have you actually removed the radiator and washed the fins out, might be full of mud and not letting enough air through

Post by **justinC** » Thu Jun 15, 2006 10:54 pm

I flushed the cooling system on one of these, changed the coolant etc. 3 months later, vehicle overheats towing. rad removed, tanks taken off, 70% blocked!!!
The rad place said is common as for these to block up badly because tubes are so thin. It was full of oxidised aluminium, and the owner blamed me for not using factory coolant. The thing is, there was no gelling or reactions, just heaps of white oxidised 'mud' in the bottom tank and tubes.

Take the rad out and get it rodded out .

JC

Post by **hokey** » Thu Jun 15, 2006 10:56 pm

Are you running standard cooling system? if you have a thermo on there without a shroud that could be a problem because instead of drawing air through the entire radiator it only draws it through the area of the fan. If you aren't already using standard set up use that because they didn't overheat from factory

Post by **chimpboy** » Thu Jun 15, 2006 11:39 pm

justinC wrote:I flushed the cooling system on one of these, changed the coolant etc. 3 months later, vehicle overheats towing. rad removed, tanks taken off, 70% blocked!!!
The rad place said is common as for these to block up badly because tubes are so thin. It was full of oxidised aluminium, and the owner blamed me for not using factory coolant. The thing is, there was no gelling or reactions, just heaps of white oxidised 'mud' in the bottom tank and tubes.

Take the rad out and get it rodded out .

JC

... hence a filter in the radiator hose is a good idea, but for some reason they can be a bit hard to find retail. Very useful additions to most cars imho.

Post by **-Scott-** » Thu Jun 15, 2006 11:55 pm

The key here is OXIDISED. Who GAF what the oxidation products are doing? The issue is why is it oxidising to begin with?

Treat the disease, not the symptom.

Scott

Post by **Suspension Stuff** » Fri Jun 16, 2006 3:06 am

My vote is for taking the radiator out and squirting it with the hose.

Post by **TOPLUX** » Sat Jun 17, 2006 6:26 pm

Are you running standard cooling system? if you have a thermo on there without a shroud that could be a problem because instead of drawing air through the entire radiator it only draws it through the area of the fan. If you aren't already using standard set up use that because they didn't overheat from factory

yeah its all stock
i have been told that mybe a twin thermo might be the go???

Post by **not not** » Sat Jun 17, 2006 6:35 pm

No dont go down that path as the standed cooling system in a patrol works very well if in good order. Apart from having the Rad out and properly flushed ' has anyone at any stage screwed the fuel up on the injector pump?
Cheers Jamie

Post by **TOPLUX** » Sun Jun 18, 2006 5:16 pm

just got back from ormeau and didn't have any dramas with the over heating and i farley pushed (low and high range) it only heats on the beach!

Post by **Daisy** » Sun Jun 18, 2006 5:45 pm

TOPLUX wrote:just got back from ormeau and didn't have any dramas with the over heating and i farley pushed (low and high range) it only heats on the beach!

the sand puts a lot of strain on the drivetrain... nothing like driving on rocks etc... as there is a lot of 'drag' on the sand.

changin tyre pressures may help.

try reverse flushing the cooling system, and make sure you put the correct mixture radiator coolant in it.

change thermostats... new one may help.

TOM

Post by **TOPLUX** » Sun Jun 18, 2006 5:54 pm

yeah have had the rad done im thinking of going twin thermo or twin fan maybe tyre pressure i don't know ive got 33 BFG A/Ts

Post by **GQ Toy** » Sun Jun 18, 2006 6:44 pm

Check viscous fan hub if that is leaking or if the fan is easily turned by hand it may need refilling with oil.

TD42 pushing 33's on sand should have no drama's with standard cooling setup if everything is working properly. I have run this setup myself for many years and in Esperance there is only sand to play on it it gets a regular work out

Post by **striped tomato** » Sun Jun 18, 2006 7:48 pm

i would recommend trying to stick with the factory clutch type fan rather than thermos. get the visous fluid replaced and check again. do you have anything up front - spotlights, winch etc. blocking air flow? do you still have the bash plate down the front - air can short circuit if it's missing.

Post by **beretta** » Sun Jun 18, 2006 9:26 pm

I have had exactly the same drama word for word, had a new rad and blah blah blah, but mine was the viscous hub it was complete dry not a sign of oil so it wasn't working at all really, I refilled it with silicone oil and sealed it with gasket goo properly and it has been brilliant ever since. Theres plenty of info on how to do this in the Nissan section or PM me.

Post by **bogged** » Sun Jun 18, 2006 10:32 pm

What year model is yours?

Have you had the injectors or pump setup recently?

What have you done so far to resolve this?
You say a flush and had the radiator "done".. what is done?

Have you removed the radiator and cleaned out the fins from the outside? Hosing while in the car only gets 2/3rds of it.
Clutch fan?
Thermostat?
Rad hoses?
Water pump?
Radiator cap?
Temp gauge sender?
Have you actually had the rad removed and checked for blockages internally - mine was blocked 28% when I had mine tested yrs back.

Themos are not the answer, theres 1000's of turbo GU's out there with the normal setup that works that are not overheating.

Post by **turps** » Sun Jun 18, 2006 11:43 pm

bogged wrote:
Themos are not the answer, theres 1000's of turbo GU's out there with the normal setup that works that are not overheating.

Theres also plenty of these patrols with the boost wound up and being feed more Fuel. Yet the std system works fine. Thats even on series one GU's that didnt have a very good radiator design.

I would go with the basics again.
Pull the radiator out, take the shroud off. This will allow access to the whole core and back flush the whole thing. Some of it may even need to be soaked with the hose trickling over it for awhile.
While the radiator is out. Pull the viscous fan off. Pretty sure all the patrol ones can be split in half.
All it is is a couple of screws. Gently prise it apart (being carefull of the o ring). Check to see if there is any fluid.
If there is but not much. Toyota actually sell the stuff. The p/n will be listed in the nissan section somewhere.
May also pay to replace all the hoses. And the thermostat.

Post by **Troll00** » Mon Jun 19, 2006 9:32 am

Did all of this and it still didn't fix mine!!
Clutch fan?
Thermostat?
Rad hoses?
Radiator cap?
Temp gauge sender?
Radiator?
No difference!!!!!!!!

Ended up having the injector pump rebuild due to sh#t fuel and it now doesn't over heat, only when towing the loaded car trailer up steep hills in 5th

, was getting to much fuel in to it and not burning it causing it to heat up.

Post by **Vulcanised** » Mon Jun 19, 2006 9:45 am

i had a similar problem in mine with the 4.2 petty in it..... i added oil to the fan hub, problem fixed. The hub on mine couldn't be split, nor did it have a spot to fill it..... there is however a spot there that you can drill with a 1/8" drill bit and use a syringe to put 10ml of fan oil in, then poke a self tapping screw in it. You can only get it from Toyota. Try one first.... not 2. I made that mistake, and the fan ran too well.... you couldn't hear yourself think at highway speed for the noise of the fan. Did keep it cool though!!

Post by **fnqcairns** » Mon Jun 19, 2006 9:50 am

For the cost of a theromstat gasket pull the thermostat and test it in a pot of boiling water (not opening enough for hard work) or pull it completly to see what happens.

cheers fnq

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