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G16A\B 16v bad idle Tech
G16A\B 16v bad idle Tech
Hi All
I got some very good advice from a guy in the NSW Suzuki 4WD Club......Thanks mate
My G16A engine was running well but after driving the idle would become erratic.
I thought this was caused by the VSS but it turned out not to be so
Apparently the G16A has a common problem where the Coolant doesn't flow past the Coolant Temperature Sensor. This makes the ECU believe the engine is still cold so keeps the auto choke on. This is caused by a valve that gets coroded up with crap so keeps hot coolant away from the sensor.
Quick fix is pull the plug off the sensor but cold mornings may cause the engine to stall.
Harder long term fix is to pull throttle body off and clean out pipe and valve.
Hope this helps others
I got some very good advice from a guy in the NSW Suzuki 4WD Club......Thanks mate
My G16A engine was running well but after driving the idle would become erratic.
I thought this was caused by the VSS but it turned out not to be so
Apparently the G16A has a common problem where the Coolant doesn't flow past the Coolant Temperature Sensor. This makes the ECU believe the engine is still cold so keeps the auto choke on. This is caused by a valve that gets coroded up with crap so keeps hot coolant away from the sensor.
Quick fix is pull the plug off the sensor but cold mornings may cause the engine to stall.
Harder long term fix is to pull throttle body off and clean out pipe and valve.
Hope this helps others
hey my motor is doing the exact same thing, so how exactly do u fix this i see there is 2 sensors on the side of the thermistat housing
do u have any pics or anything ?
my motor drives fine but after driving for a bit it will either idle up and down by its self or it will just idle high, like 2000rpm and it wont return to proper idle until i turn the car off then on again, is this the same problem you were having ?
do u have any pics or anything ?
my motor drives fine but after driving for a bit it will either idle up and down by its self or it will just idle high, like 2000rpm and it wont return to proper idle until i turn the car off then on again, is this the same problem you were having ?
I suck at tech talk I got the explanation a little wrong
Here it is from the horses mouth
Here it is from the horses mouth
guy in the NSW Suzuki 4WD Club wrote:
It isn't the coolant sensor, it is the idle air bypass that is controlled by the engine coolant that has rusted up and won't pass water causing the extra air that is needed when cold to idle correctly to still be fed in when the motor is hot simulating a open butterfly resulting in a high and irradic idle. The plug that you remove is off the Idle air solenoid that is driven by the computer. Unpluging this will give a more stable idle when warm, but a poor idle when cold and when extra loads are applied like AC or headlights.
The Coolant sensor is working fine otherwise you would be getting a fault condition that corrisponds to the coolant sensor when you do a daignostic.
This should straighten it out.
1Lzook wrote:i pulled that plug off and sure enough it runs like a dream, even when the thermo kicks in and the lights and radio are going still idles great
is there any reason why you cant leave this plug off all together ?
On Saturday I pulled the throttle body off and to see if I could sort out the blockage.HRZOOK wrote:Quick fix is pull the plug off the sensor but cold mornings may cause the engine to stall.
It was quiet easy to pull off the throttle body, 4 bolts and a couple of hoses and the throttle cable.
There is a feeder hose and a return hose with what looks like a thermostat between them. My thermostat was clogged bad. I dug the crap out with a small screw driver than camped my garden hose to the feeder pipe. This actually worked and pushed some more crap out. I used some carby cleaner on the body while I had it off.
I put the body back on and connected the feeder hose but not the return hose. I let the car idle up to operating temp and lo and behold the water started running out the return pipe.
Having the sensor connected still makes the engine idle slightly higher than if off
if you do all the above and you still have problems you may have to reset the throttle body sensor.loosen the two screws then rev the enginge until the idle becomes eratic.then move the tps slightly until revs normalize.if you have a miss at idle it could also be the cone in the air flow meter.for people who own jimnys{poor buggers...i used to have one.}and have idle problems check the vaccum modulator that is screwed into the manifold and goes to the map sensor.it will be full of oil.
joeblow wrote:if you do all the above and you still have problems you may have to reset the throttle body sensor.loosen the two screws then rev the enginge until the idle becomes eratic.then move the tps slightly until revs normalize.if you have a miss at idle it could also be the cone in the air flow meter.for people who own jimnys{poor buggers...i used to have one.}and have idle problems check the vaccum modulator that is screwed into the manifold and goes to the map sensor.it will be full of oil.
that is a quick way of setting the tps... not the correct way though.
hr you can cleant the iac with efi throttle body cleaner. you will see the plastic srew when you pull it out this is the part that jams up.
Mud4b/ OPT, Cheap rates, Not cheap work. Search Opt- option offroad on facebook. Call or Sms 0439609525.. Sunshine coast, Eudlo, 4554.
AT IDLE ONE OF THE WIRES WILL MEASURE OR BE CLOSE TO 5V.HRZOOK wrote:Any info on the correct way Mark?mud4b wrote:that is a quick way of setting the tps... not the correct way though..
Thanks matemud4b wrote:hr you can cleant the iac with efi throttle body cleaner. you will see the plastic srew when you pull it out this is the part that jams up.
its one of the wires in the middle of the bunch. you need to locate that wire and measure the voltage at idle if its not on 5 volts adjust the tps untill it reads as close as you can get it to 5volts, then blip the throttle and see if it reads the same voltage as before you reset it.
it is very hard to get it spot on 5 volts so dont stress if you cant get it there. 4.4 or under you will need to keep adjusting it.
Mud4b/ OPT, Cheap rates, Not cheap work. Search Opt- option offroad on facebook. Call or Sms 0439609525.. Sunshine coast, Eudlo, 4554.
Hey HRZOOK
Thanks for the pic.
Could you (or anyone else reading this post) recommend someone in the Newcastle area that knows enough about the G16B 16V Efi engine to do a good tune, someone that know the technical side of tune, willing to pay good money to get the job done right.
Have spoken the the Service department of both dealers here and didn't come away that impressed, just not sure if they had seen to many of em. What's your thought on a Dyno tune.
Cheers
Thanks for the pic.
Could you (or anyone else reading this post) recommend someone in the Newcastle area that knows enough about the G16B 16V Efi engine to do a good tune, someone that know the technical side of tune, willing to pay good money to get the job done right.
Have spoken the the Service department of both dealers here and didn't come away that impressed, just not sure if they had seen to many of em. What's your thought on a Dyno tune.
Cheers
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