I am in the market for a Disco and am not sure if auto or manual is the best option.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Also what is the best year to purchase.
Is there any know issues with any models?
Thanks
Steve
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Auto or Manual 300Tdi Disco
Moderator: Micka
Auto or Manual 300Tdi Disco
RANge rOVER
Auto
Just had to keep the rythm going.
I have the auto v8 and the zf is the smoothest transmission I've ever used (only ever really used yotas, nissans and commodores so no major competition). You will find it helps to keep the tdi on boost too. The only common problem I've had with mine is rust around the alpine windows otherwise its been faultless so far. Don't know much about the actual tdi's though sorry.
Just had to keep the rythm going.
I have the auto v8 and the zf is the smoothest transmission I've ever used (only ever really used yotas, nissans and commodores so no major competition). You will find it helps to keep the tdi on boost too. The only common problem I've had with mine is rust around the alpine windows otherwise its been faultless so far. Don't know much about the actual tdi's though sorry.
-Scott- wrote:Isn't it a bit early in the day to be pissed?
With a tdi you definately want auto.
I have a 300tdi auto and find it a good combo. The torque converter masks the lack of any real torque below about 1500rpm whereas a manual will not (without excessively riding the clutch).
I have a 300tdi auto and find it a good combo. The torque converter masks the lack of any real torque below about 1500rpm whereas a manual will not (without excessively riding the clutch).
Range Rover - 4.4 V8, MD Crawler Box, F&R Lockers, 35" Centipedes, 4" lift. Overqualified WebWheeler!!!
Discovery - Bling touring stuff!
Discovery - Bling touring stuff!
AUTO AUTO AUTO AUTO AUTO AUTO
LT77 a pig of a shift, R380 a bit notchy and 1st gear in the disco is a bit high when loaded or towing.
I would think about a boost and fuel upgrade for the autos though, as some can be a little sluggish.
Even better, There are some good aftermarket turbos around to give more torque, the manifold and variable vane turbo from the 2.8 TGV is a bolt on and reasonably cheap, gives amazing bottom end apparently.
Big bore exhaust and no mufflers help, so does cleaning up the air intake system slightly, replacing the convuluted intake pipe with stainless tube and elbows reduces turbulence coming into the turbocharger inlet, supposedly reducing 'pulsing' at high turbine speeds...
JC
JC
LT77 a pig of a shift, R380 a bit notchy and 1st gear in the disco is a bit high when loaded or towing.
I would think about a boost and fuel upgrade for the autos though, as some can be a little sluggish.
Even better, There are some good aftermarket turbos around to give more torque, the manifold and variable vane turbo from the 2.8 TGV is a bolt on and reasonably cheap, gives amazing bottom end apparently.
Big bore exhaust and no mufflers help, so does cleaning up the air intake system slightly, replacing the convuluted intake pipe with stainless tube and elbows reduces turbulence coming into the turbocharger inlet, supposedly reducing 'pulsing' at high turbine speeds...
JC
JC
'92 Rangie Sherwood/turbo intercooled isuzu4BD1 /ACE/ full leather/2.5" exh/2.5" body lift/DeCarbon shocks/LR tanks/LT95 back in and OK now, Sals conversion soon...
GO THE AUTO 
AUTO
Having just moved from a VM & manual to an Tdi 300 & auto, the difference is amazing. I'll stick to an auto from now on. I need to refine my offroad downhill driving in real rough conditions, as I think the manual gave better brake free control, but I'll get there.
Having just moved from a VM & manual to an Tdi 300 & auto, the difference is amazing. I'll stick to an auto from now on. I need to refine my offroad downhill driving in real rough conditions, as I think the manual gave better brake free control, but I'll get there.
Michael T
Aussie '88 RR Tdi300 Auto
Aussie '88 RR Tdi300 Auto
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