What coolant should I use in my 80 series
How often are people changing it.
(I know some cars it is very important to run certain brands and other cars you can pretty well use what you like.)
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Which Coolant?
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
Resident Terrorist
coolant
Definately ONLY run the Toyota stuff. My Lux never gets really hot now that i run it 
PM RAY185 on this board he does a good price
PM RAY185 on this board he does a good price
Kind Regards,
Brad
Brad
Resident Terrorist
Toyota recommends a mix of 1:1 coolant concentrate : demineralised water. You need to ascertain how much your cooling system holds (owners manual should tell you in the specs section) and mix accordingly. From memory 80 series diesels hold about 12 litres so you'll need about 6 litres of coolant. If you are not sure how much yours holds let me know what car and I'll look it up for you in my lube book.
Cheers,
Ray
Cheers,
Ray
coolant
I meant i ran tectaloy, now use yota stuffRuffy wrote:UMM the coolant makes it run cooler?
Kind Regards,
Brad
Brad
Chaps I think that the word coolant is a little miss leading.
I prefer to call it corrosion inhibitor. (or anti freeze, anti boil, antipesto etc etc etc
For the best cooling / heat transfer, pure water is best.
HOWEVER !
Then you have the issue of higher temp and cavitation, thus the "coolant" has additives to prevent this, and corrosion, and stuff to stop minor leaks, stuff to stop if freezing at 0 deg, and boiling at 100 etc etc etc.
Personally I use the motorcraft r13b concentrate with pure water.
Have seen ea falcon heads and head gaskets with 180k on them before being replaced that only ran that stuff.
Most heads I did were around 80 to 120k if they were lucky.
Its about 10 bucks for 500mls and that does most cooling systems, sorry I dont have a spare bottle handy to see how many lts that does.
Again thats just my opinion.
Happily used it for many vehicles, including familys and my own with good results.
If your cooling system is not working, its not exchanging heat properly, and the reasons for that can be many and varied.
Mostly from blocked cores not exchanging heat properly, thus when demand is put upon it, it cant cope and the overheating begins.
Sometimes a basic flush can help that, but the best thing to do is take out your rad, get it rodded by a rad chap, flush out your cooling system including your heater core, and refit and refill with fresh stuff of your liking.
That way you have removed any gunk (different coolants mixed together can be nasty and quickly block up a rad core) and casting sand, left overs from the head repair etc etc etc from the block, and the rad, and its got fresh stuff in it and it can get on with its job efficiently without any contamination to upset it.
hope that helps a bit.
Trains
I prefer to call it corrosion inhibitor. (or anti freeze, anti boil, antipesto etc etc etc
For the best cooling / heat transfer, pure water is best.
HOWEVER !
Then you have the issue of higher temp and cavitation, thus the "coolant" has additives to prevent this, and corrosion, and stuff to stop minor leaks, stuff to stop if freezing at 0 deg, and boiling at 100 etc etc etc.
Personally I use the motorcraft r13b concentrate with pure water.
Have seen ea falcon heads and head gaskets with 180k on them before being replaced that only ran that stuff.
Most heads I did were around 80 to 120k if they were lucky.
Its about 10 bucks for 500mls and that does most cooling systems, sorry I dont have a spare bottle handy to see how many lts that does.
Again thats just my opinion.
Happily used it for many vehicles, including familys and my own with good results.
If your cooling system is not working, its not exchanging heat properly, and the reasons for that can be many and varied.
Mostly from blocked cores not exchanging heat properly, thus when demand is put upon it, it cant cope and the overheating begins.
Sometimes a basic flush can help that, but the best thing to do is take out your rad, get it rodded by a rad chap, flush out your cooling system including your heater core, and refit and refill with fresh stuff of your liking.
That way you have removed any gunk (different coolants mixed together can be nasty and quickly block up a rad core) and casting sand, left overs from the head repair etc etc etc from the block, and the rad, and its got fresh stuff in it and it can get on with its job efficiently without any contamination to upset it.
hope that helps a bit.
Trains
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