Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Our fravourite Topic: Lock-Right Problems
Our fravourite Topic: Lock-Right Problems
I have done the usual thing, searched, read hundreds of related threads, and checked and re-checked.
So to start from the start:
I purchased a second hand front diff head complete with lock-right. The diff and lock-right had been stripped, checked, adjusted prior to selling. I spoke to the guy who did the work just to be sure he new what he was doing before handed over the $$. He convinced me he was capable and that the diff was good and ready for another round.
I handed over the $$, got the new one home and had a good look to make sure the locker had been reassembled correctly and had clearence to work etc etc, then spent the best part of Saturday swapping the diffheads over.
Axles in and wheels on, now for the test.
Hmmmm. Diff is locked. Yep good. Now, to make it unlock and ratchet.
Nope, nothing i tried has made it unlock on its own. I tried driving round in circles on the sealed road with the hubs in and 2X4. Nuthing. Tires just skipped and scuffed. Took it for a play in 4x4, still nothing.
Last night had a poke in through the diff filler cap with a sharpend screwdriver to make sure the coupler and driver(side gear) could still move and had clearence to alow it to ratchet. There was clearence, and i could get it to move teeth on the coupler by gently levering back on the coupler and rotating the wheel. While i had the driver and coupler seperated with them both sitting on top of each other on the raised teeth i blasted them with CRC (yes CRC in the diff oil now).
Still, it will not dissengage and ratchet on its own. The locker is assembled correctly. There is clearence for it to do its thing. So WTF is wrong with the bloody thing.
So, at the moment, its staying in the vehicle, i am going to take it on a trip this weekend and give the locker a work out. If its not sorted its self out by then, i'm going to have to pull it out and pull it to pieces. Not that that will help, as its seems to be assembled correctly.
It does noyt look like it was assembled with grease though.
Anyone had similar problems?? Any thoughts/ideas/things i could try??
Cheers,
Pete.
So to start from the start:
I purchased a second hand front diff head complete with lock-right. The diff and lock-right had been stripped, checked, adjusted prior to selling. I spoke to the guy who did the work just to be sure he new what he was doing before handed over the $$. He convinced me he was capable and that the diff was good and ready for another round.
I handed over the $$, got the new one home and had a good look to make sure the locker had been reassembled correctly and had clearence to work etc etc, then spent the best part of Saturday swapping the diffheads over.
Axles in and wheels on, now for the test.
Hmmmm. Diff is locked. Yep good. Now, to make it unlock and ratchet.
Nope, nothing i tried has made it unlock on its own. I tried driving round in circles on the sealed road with the hubs in and 2X4. Nuthing. Tires just skipped and scuffed. Took it for a play in 4x4, still nothing.
Last night had a poke in through the diff filler cap with a sharpend screwdriver to make sure the coupler and driver(side gear) could still move and had clearence to alow it to ratchet. There was clearence, and i could get it to move teeth on the coupler by gently levering back on the coupler and rotating the wheel. While i had the driver and coupler seperated with them both sitting on top of each other on the raised teeth i blasted them with CRC (yes CRC in the diff oil now).
Still, it will not dissengage and ratchet on its own. The locker is assembled correctly. There is clearence for it to do its thing. So WTF is wrong with the bloody thing.
So, at the moment, its staying in the vehicle, i am going to take it on a trip this weekend and give the locker a work out. If its not sorted its self out by then, i'm going to have to pull it out and pull it to pieces. Not that that will help, as its seems to be assembled correctly.
It does noyt look like it was assembled with grease though.
Anyone had similar problems?? Any thoughts/ideas/things i could try??
Cheers,
Pete.
i thought lock-rite lockers, let one wheel spin faster than the other when turning. so they will scrub the road abit.
if you can turn corners on the road its working fine. with my front locked (air locker) you cant turn corners on the road, even in the bush it gets hard to turn with 35's locked.
if you can turn corners on the road its working fine. with my front locked (air locker) you cant turn corners on the road, even in the bush it gets hard to turn with 35's locked.
cheers Pete.
its the skinny pedal
its the skinny pedal
Thanks for the input .
Doesn't look like its a common problem so far.......
The pins are sweet, and are in the right place, there is only really one way they can go in.
In comparison to a mate of mines Lock-Right, it doesn't stack up at all.
You can spin one of his wheels by hand easily and hear the locker racheting.
Mine, you can't get to do anything at all.
Doesn't look like its a common problem so far.......
The pins are sweet, and are in the right place, there is only really one way they can go in.
In comparison to a mate of mines Lock-Right, it doesn't stack up at all.
You can spin one of his wheels by hand easily and hear the locker racheting.
Mine, you can't get to do anything at all.
Yeah, thats the one Dave.
He was just down the road from were the missus works so i dropped in to have a look. Seemed to work ok, and the diff was in very good shape, so i talked him down to accepting $400 for it. Not bad, but he was dreaming if he thought anyone was gonna pay $700.
I'm going for both 35's and the lockers. I have a guy in Japan looking for a factory locking rear diff for me, he imports buses, so he will throw it in the bus and it will be freight free!!!!
He was just down the road from were the missus works so i dropped in to have a look. Seemed to work ok, and the diff was in very good shape, so i talked him down to accepting $400 for it. Not bad, but he was dreaming if he thought anyone was gonna pay $700.
I'm going for both 35's and the lockers. I have a guy in Japan looking for a factory locking rear diff for me, he imports buses, so he will throw it in the bus and it will be freight free!!!!
..
So have you got it sorted yet mate.. ? What was wrong ??
Eager to hear as I've got the factory rear locker and teh 35's, the next step is one of these. I can't justify ~$2k for a Selectable Front Locker given the amount of driving I do.
Eager to hear as I've got the factory rear locker and teh 35's, the next step is one of these. I can't justify ~$2k for a Selectable Front Locker given the amount of driving I do.
[quote="MSCHIF"]SPUA its like shaving a barbie dolls head, amusing but pointless.[/quote]
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 6 guests