probably won't be before the weekened now, flat out this week. remind me on thursday.
cheers
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Bundera Engine Conversion- COMPLETED!!
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
Not as bad as I fisrt suspected. I can fix it pretty easily.....
Grind off the drivers side chassis mont.
Make 2 new engine mounts.
The passenger one will bolt straight in and I will attach the drivers one to the engine along with the chassis mount and then drop the whole lot in and weld away!
Make sence?
Anyway I dont mind, excuse to use dad's new mig welder!!!
ALL IN THE NAME OF LEARNING!!!
Wont bother doing anything else until later this week.
Nick
Grind off the drivers side chassis mont.
Make 2 new engine mounts.
The passenger one will bolt straight in and I will attach the drivers one to the engine along with the chassis mount and then drop the whole lot in and weld away!
Make sence?
Anyway I dont mind, excuse to use dad's new mig welder!!!
ALL IN THE NAME OF LEARNING!!!
Wont bother doing anything else until later this week.
Nick
______________________
PRAISE THE LIFTED
PRAISE THE LIFTED
Gday
You may have to change diff ratios somewhere down the track. The dunnydore motor and diesel diffs mate up ok, but the 22r will be alot lower, dunnydore motor is torquey but uses plenty of juice when revved.
The 1gg motor would be a good transplant or a 7mge toyota twincam, someone said they bolt straight up aswell in the hilux.
If you want commodore motor, i would check out pickles.com for a writeoff, should get a whole car for 1k
Andrew
You may have to change diff ratios somewhere down the track. The dunnydore motor and diesel diffs mate up ok, but the 22r will be alot lower, dunnydore motor is torquey but uses plenty of juice when revved.
The 1gg motor would be a good transplant or a 7mge toyota twincam, someone said they bolt straight up aswell in the hilux.
If you want commodore motor, i would check out pickles.com for a writeoff, should get a whole car for 1k
Andrew
I chopped off the chassie mounts today and bolted them to the engine mounts on the engine.
Lowered the engine into the engine bay (just sitting there at the moment although alot of the weight is being supported by the winch still, just in case it slips)
It is sitting in there up against the gearbox nicely. ( I had to put it in neautral to push it for a change!!
)
Will keep u better informed when it is welded in place!
Regards,
Nick
Lowered the engine into the engine bay (just sitting there at the moment although alot of the weight is being supported by the winch still, just in case it slips)
It is sitting in there up against the gearbox nicely. ( I had to put it in neautral to push it for a change!!
)
Will keep u better informed when it is welded in place!
Regards,
Nick
______________________
PRAISE THE LIFTED
PRAISE THE LIFTED
Posts: 2808
Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2003 4:51 pm
Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2003 4:51 pm
Location: NORTH of the black stump.......Townsville
Contact:
stress less people!!!
I let out my anger on that section with a *ucking great hammer. I was really agry
Infact I let out so much anger that the thing clears easily now. Firewall doesnt look too ordinary too
.
I will post some pics the arvo.
i made some new powersteer pipes
I put the Charcoal canister back in (shut up bj )
blead the clutch system
installed ecu unit (inside the cab on the back of the firewall),
new oil / oilfilter (momo )
mounted ignition coil
Today I will mod the radiator...btw,can u use a mig welder on a radiator or will I just make big holes?
Should have it done within 3 weeks!
Pics later today...I promise.
Nick
I let out my anger on that section with a *ucking great hammer. I was really agry
Infact I let out so much anger that the thing clears easily now. Firewall doesnt look too ordinary too
.
I will post some pics the arvo.
i made some new powersteer pipes
I put the Charcoal canister back in (shut up bj
)
blead the clutch system
installed ecu unit (inside the cab on the back of the firewall),
new oil / oilfilter (momo
)
mounted ignition coil
Today I will mod the radiator...btw,can u use a mig welder on a radiator or will I just make big holes?
Should have it done within 3 weeks!
Pics later today...I promise.
Nick
______________________
PRAISE THE LIFTED
PRAISE THE LIFTED
OK, sounds like you got all the mechanical side worked out nicely!!
Wiring time. Inside the passenger side kick panel in the 1/2 cut, there are a few relays, one of these is marked CIRCUIT OPENING RELAY, you need this. You will also need the small wiring loom that comes directly out of the back of where this relay is mounted to. Its a bit of a pain in the arse, but you will have to trace some of the wires (from the relay holder) back up into the dash. It will then go back into a plug that joins into the motor loom, ie, one of the 3 connectors NOT directly associated with the ECU.The wire colours that are associated with the relay are
a) black with white stripe (starter motor cranking signal IN, from key switch)
b) black with orange stripe (IGNITION power from an ignition relay)+ there is a smaller black with ornge stripe, join these 2 together
c) black with blue stripe (fuel pump OUTPUT)
d) small green wire (this should be the signal from the air flow meter, stays in loom connector)
e) small black and red (stays in the loom connector), i think this has no use
NOw, there is a small 4 or 6 pin connector next to the coil/igniter connector on the engine loom (coming out from just behind/below the alternater). This leads into another relay in the relay/fuse box in the engine bay of the 1/2 cut. Where this connector joins onto the chassis loom in the 1/2 cut, you must trace it back up into the relay/fuse box and cut out the plastic holder where the relay sits in (allong with keeping the 4/5 wires attached, and the relay). Once you've done this, you will need to solder a length of wire onto the power wire (black with orange stripe I THINK) and join this length of wire to the IGNITION power from the ignition relay i talked about with the circuit opening relay( you will have to put this relay in, just a bosch one or something).
Once all this is hooked up, turn the key and it SHOULD fire, but it has been a while since ive fiddled with the factory ECU and loom on one of these (one of the joys of aftermarket ECU's, so much simpler!)
I hope you understand what ive writen, if not, just PM me (with your mobile number), and will go from there
Phill
Wiring time. Inside the passenger side kick panel in the 1/2 cut, there are a few relays, one of these is marked CIRCUIT OPENING RELAY, you need this. You will also need the small wiring loom that comes directly out of the back of where this relay is mounted to. Its a bit of a pain in the arse, but you will have to trace some of the wires (from the relay holder) back up into the dash. It will then go back into a plug that joins into the motor loom, ie, one of the 3 connectors NOT directly associated with the ECU.The wire colours that are associated with the relay are
a) black with white stripe (starter motor cranking signal IN, from key switch)
b) black with orange stripe (IGNITION power from an ignition relay)+ there is a smaller black with ornge stripe, join these 2 together
c) black with blue stripe (fuel pump OUTPUT)
d) small green wire (this should be the signal from the air flow meter, stays in loom connector)
e) small black and red (stays in the loom connector), i think this has no use
NOw, there is a small 4 or 6 pin connector next to the coil/igniter connector on the engine loom (coming out from just behind/below the alternater). This leads into another relay in the relay/fuse box in the engine bay of the 1/2 cut. Where this connector joins onto the chassis loom in the 1/2 cut, you must trace it back up into the relay/fuse box and cut out the plastic holder where the relay sits in (allong with keeping the 4/5 wires attached, and the relay). Once you've done this, you will need to solder a length of wire onto the power wire (black with orange stripe I THINK) and join this length of wire to the IGNITION power from the ignition relay i talked about with the circuit opening relay( you will have to put this relay in, just a bosch one or something).
Once all this is hooked up, turn the key and it SHOULD fire, but it has been a while since ive fiddled with the factory ECU and loom on one of these (one of the joys of aftermarket ECU's, so much simpler!)
I hope you understand what ive writen, if not, just PM me (with your mobile number), and will go from there
Phill
Phill
1995 DX 80 series, brought to you by:- 1HDFTE, A750, PWR, Secret Squirrell Steinbauer, BFG, GME, Engel, ARB, Kaymar, and my empty wallet!
1995 DX 80 series, brought to you by:- 1HDFTE, A750, PWR, Secret Squirrell Steinbauer, BFG, GME, Engel, ARB, Kaymar, and my empty wallet!
Thanks for the detailed post slowhilux. i will print out what you wrote and try to figure it out with the loom in front of me.
i still have to weld the chassie mounts back on as they are just sitting there. hence the winch still holding a little bit of the engine weight.
I will get back to you re the wiring.
Regards,
Nick
i still have to weld the chassie mounts back on as they are just sitting there. hence the winch still holding a little bit of the engine weight.
I will get back to you re the wiring.
Regards,
Nick
______________________
PRAISE THE LIFTED
PRAISE THE LIFTED
Modified the radiator mounts today.
not the inlet and outlet spouts as I am going to try to keep them where they are and work around them.
Have the bottom hose connected but I will have to bend a piece of pipe 180 degrees for the top one to work properly.
Installed the accelerator cable and took a good look at the wiring..
A little nasty but I will have a good go at it on the weekend.
The only thing I need and dont have is a fuel pump...
What would people recommend? I was thinking of getting one out of a VL commodore or something like that..
Should I look at making a surge tank with a lift pump seeing as the fuel tank is most likely not baffeled?
Regards,
Nick
not the inlet and outlet spouts as I am going to try to keep them where they are and work around them.
Have the bottom hose connected but I will have to bend a piece of pipe 180 degrees for the top one to work properly.
Installed the accelerator cable and took a good look at the wiring..
A little nasty but I will have a good go at it on the weekend.
The only thing I need and dont have is a fuel pump...
What would people recommend? I was thinking of getting one out of a VL commodore or something like that..
Should I look at making a surge tank with a lift pump seeing as the fuel tank is most likely not baffeled?
Regards,
Nick
______________________
PRAISE THE LIFTED
PRAISE THE LIFTED
BUNDERA: I would assume there is a lift pump in the tank of the Bundera already, have a look. If so you have two options:
1. Replace it with an efi Bosch swimmer pump.
2. Use it to supply a surge tank, then run the VL turbo pump afterwards.
A surge tank would definetly be an advantage for hardcore 4wd'ing.
1. Replace it with an efi Bosch swimmer pump.
2. Use it to supply a surge tank, then run the VL turbo pump afterwards.
A surge tank would definetly be an advantage for hardcore 4wd'ing.
there is no pump in the bundy tank, they are carbed and rely on the engine mechanical pump only. there is however a large port on the top of the tank that is accessible from the top without dropping the tank and as an alternative to the VL pump any submersible pump (with sufficient capacity) should work, you just have to adapt it to the tank cover plate. you could construct some baffles around the pump to live down in the tank and hang the whole lot off the tank cover plate. but it might be easier to go for the external surge tank, with the turbo you don't ever want to let it lean out or its bye bye pistons 
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests