i have a few spare if you need themZuki98 wrote:what about coily cv's are they the same as the older 1.3's?
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How piss weak are zook CVs?
Ummm, maybe
the inner axle is 35mm longer per side, so you can't swap them. The CV itself is (I think) pretty much the same, but I think the stub axle is shorter because of the different wheelbearing design.
Inner axles can be very hard to separate from the CV, so for all intents and purposes, coiler cv's are unique.
CV's are pretty easy to break if you drive through the signs - i.e full lock, tyre bound up on spring, bodywork ir terrain, and a bump.
They will fail very easily in reverse with lock on.
All things considered though, they are pretty easy to replace - approx 20 minutes if you know what you are doing, and even though my next build will be going double tuff, the value for money just doesn't stack up against occaisional replacement.
PS whoever thinks that we don't break stuff in vic because we are always on slippery stuff and never have any traction clearly has no idea. Sure, we have lots of mud, but I have seen more CV's go on mud than in rock, because we are working the car a lot harder in the mud than on rock where it is all low revs and finesse.
Steve.

Inner axles can be very hard to separate from the CV, so for all intents and purposes, coiler cv's are unique.
CV's are pretty easy to break if you drive through the signs - i.e full lock, tyre bound up on spring, bodywork ir terrain, and a bump.
They will fail very easily in reverse with lock on.
All things considered though, they are pretty easy to replace - approx 20 minutes if you know what you are doing, and even though my next build will be going double tuff, the value for money just doesn't stack up against occaisional replacement.
PS whoever thinks that we don't break stuff in vic because we are always on slippery stuff and never have any traction clearly has no idea. Sure, we have lots of mud, but I have seen more CV's go on mud than in rock, because we are working the car a lot harder in the mud than on rock where it is all low revs and finesse.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Got tips for this?Gwagensteve wrote:All things considered though, they are pretty easy to replace - approx 20 minutes if you know what you are doing, and even though my next build will be going double tuff, the value for money just doesn't stack up against occaisional replacement.Steve.
Nic
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=930942#930942&highlight=]Zook[/url]
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
Remove the disk guard, then when you have to change a CV, you only have to revove the end of the hub to get to the circlip, the callipir then just undo the spindle bolts and your done.nicbeer wrote:Got tips for this?Gwagensteve wrote:All things considered though, they are pretty easy to replace - approx 20 minutes if you know what you are doing, and even though my next build will be going double tuff, the value for money just doesn't stack up against occaisional replacement.Steve.
Nic
with the guard on you cant acces the spindle bolts without pulling everything off the spindle ie. the whole hub and wheel bearings.
Mock

My photographic Art http://www.redbubble.com/people/ljxtreem
www.dirtcomp.com.au
Sierrajim wrote:
So hurry up, come back, buy a Lada (can't believe i just said that) and we'll go wheelin'.
www.dirtcomp.com.au
Sierrajim wrote:
So hurry up, come back, buy a Lada (can't believe i just said that) and we'll go wheelin'.
I just trimmed it down, so it still has the centre part, which helps keep crud out of the bearings. Not essential, but why not keep it just in case, is what methunk.ljxtreem wrote: Remove the disk guard, then when you have to change a CV, you only have to revove the end of the hub to get to the circlip, the callipir then just undo the spindle bolts and your done.
with the guard on you cant acces the spindle bolts without pulling everything off the spindle ie. the whole hub and wheel bearings.
Mock
christover
4WD SUZUKI CLUB VICTORIA
http://www.vic.suzuki4wd.com/forum/
http://www.vic.suzuki4wd.com/forum/
I have the Spidertrax birfield rings fitted and am very happy with them on my 1.6EFI sierra runnin 31 x12.5s...
The only time I've ever done one since fitting was snatching a 3 ton nissan out of a thick bog in reverse at full lock up hill (gotta luv that CREB track!!!)
The only time I've ever done one since fitting was snatching a 3 ton nissan out of a thick bog in reverse at full lock up hill (gotta luv that CREB track!!!)
Last edited by mike on Mon Jun 26, 2006 8:00 am, edited 1 time in total.
If it's already been thought of...
There has to be a better way...
There has to be a better way...
My first Sierra BAZOOC ran narrow track diffs and 35's it copped a fair flogging and to my surprise didn't go through many cv's. I think 4 in total and it did a lot of driving. The year we came third in TTC we drove the whole weekend and broke one cv on the last course trying to climb the virtical log walls on the frame twister.
A coily cv is the same size as a 1 ltr cv for those that were asking.
The hardtop i had with the coils under it had the Spidertrax birfeilds on them and Haultech traction controll and i broke 4 rear axles and not one cv.
So i guess for the size that they are they sre quite strong one thing to check though is that the steering stops are set up correctly as this will greatly reduce a cv's ife.
SAM
A coily cv is the same size as a 1 ltr cv for those that were asking.
The hardtop i had with the coils under it had the Spidertrax birfeilds on them and Haultech traction controll and i broke 4 rear axles and not one cv.
So i guess for the size that they are they sre quite strong one thing to check though is that the steering stops are set up correctly as this will greatly reduce a cv's ife.
SAM
OVERKILL ENGINEERING
www.overkill4x4.com
www.overkill4x4.com
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