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altinator charge rate for 24v MK
altinator charge rate for 24v MK
im currently having problems with flat batteries on my mk, its 24v so what is the charge rate meant to be its curntly sitting at about 12v i havent got a proper maltimeter im just going off the guage of the cluster. im hoping the brushes are just stuck
God of Magnificant Ideas!
Alternators are generally 24volt & 35amphour charge rate.
Showing 12volt on the dash guage tends to make me belive that one of the batteries may well be dead or not connected properly ( IE: corroded buildup on a terminal etc ) ..... if both are active then you should see 25 - 28 volts on the guage when the engine is running........
Even if the alt isnt charging then you should still be getting atleast 20 - 24 volts showing on the guage.
more reading .......
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=16753
Kingy
Showing 12volt on the dash guage tends to make me belive that one of the batteries may well be dead or not connected properly ( IE: corroded buildup on a terminal etc ) ..... if both are active then you should see 25 - 28 volts on the guage when the engine is running........
Even if the alt isnt charging then you should still be getting atleast 20 - 24 volts showing on the guage.
more reading .......
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=16753
Kingy
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
i have read that alot of people with MQ's that are on a 24v system have battery charge problems due to the way the wiring has been c/o by nissan from factory.
is there a better way i could wire up the batteries or other circuts to help charge of the batteries?
and it has been said that you need to run 2x of the same battery of the same age otherwise one will always go flat. is this true?
is there a better way i could wire up the batteries or other circuts to help charge of the batteries?
and it has been said that you need to run 2x of the same battery of the same age otherwise one will always go flat. is this true?
are you positive its a 24v cause the guage in the cluster is a 12v one so i would not go by that if it is 24v you will have an external regulator normal found on the inner guard on the left hand side at the front it make sure both batteries get the same amount of charge check this out make sure its ago all plugs are ok etc hope that helps abit
also have you tried searching 24v stuff theres abit around about it somewhere mine
as i had a 24v truck myself had heeps of dramas with the 24v alot ive tried to put out of my mind but i sorted it and was all good then someone offered to buy it off me so i sold it
try search you might find the answer you are looking for
cheers
also have you tried searching 24v stuff theres abit around about it somewhere mine


try search you might find the answer you are looking for

cheers
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mq
Sounds to me like you have a 12v system mq not a 24v system. Just because you have 2 batteries doesn't mean its 24v. someone may have put a second battery in 

Remember some days your the pigeon and other days your the statue
God of Magnificant Ideas!
yes all globes will be 24volt ..... as will the windscreen wiper motor, the windscreen wiper control module, the horn, and the internal heater fan motor if it is indeed a 24volt setup.
sounds like a 12volt setup with the guage description you've given .... are you sure its 24volt ???
Some Alternators will have the voltage and the charge rate stamped on the casing..... for example 12V / 85AH ..... meaning 12volt system and a charge rate of 85 Amp/Hour .... ( this is typical for a std holden commodore alt )
Kingy
sounds like a 12volt setup with the guage description you've given .... are you sure its 24volt ???
Some Alternators will have the voltage and the charge rate stamped on the casing..... for example 12V / 85AH ..... meaning 12volt system and a charge rate of 85 Amp/Hour .... ( this is typical for a std holden commodore alt )
Kingy
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
as V8Patrol said all electrical parts will be 24v IF it is 24v the reasons i said to take a bulb out was to read on what it says for example it might have
5w 12v
5w 24v
something like that hope fully you will be able to figure it out from there but you really need to find out if it is 24v and not just a dual battry set up
5w 12v
5w 24v
something like that hope fully you will be able to figure it out from there but you really need to find out if it is 24v and not just a dual battry set up
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God of Magnificant Ideas!
The Radio in both the 12volt & 24volt systems will be a 12volt radio regardless ov what the system actually is.Patchy wrote:i starting to doubt that it is an actual 24v system. the bloke i brought it off told me it was 24v and the only 12v circuts on the vehicle were the radio and cluster. the brake light globe i have taken out is 12v
Kingy
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
mq
Its a 12v Systen then. NOW CHECK THE BATTERY"S ARE WIRED UP RIGHT!!!!Patchy wrote:i starting to doubt that it is an actual 24v system. the bloke i brought it off told me it was 24v and the only 12v circuts on the vehicle were the radio and cluster. the brake light globe i have taken out is 12v
Remember some days your the pigeon and other days your the statue
how should the batteries be wirerd up. bothe the negitives go to the engine and bothe the possitives go down towards the starter, cant see where there joined coz its covered in heat protector tape. both batteries are running the same voltage and its not charging so im going to have a look at the altinator. do i have to remove the altinaror from the vehicle to check the brushes and reg or can i do it in situ.
God of Magnificant Ideas!
Both negatives should go to an earth position incorperating both the engine and a part on the body. The body earth is generaly part of the battery tray itself.
Best wiring is for one positive to be joined to the other positive and then down to the starter motor.
Efectivley its the exact same wiring as if you had jumperleads on .
Next step is to get ya self a MULTIMETER ...... DickSmith etc have good elcheapo's
Once ya have one place the red lead on the positive terminal and the black lead on the negative terminal and get a reading....... it should show around 13.8volts with the engine running and 12volts with the engine OFF.
If its less than 13.8volts with the engine running then the ALT or regulator needs attention ASAP !!!
Kingy
Best wiring is for one positive to be joined to the other positive and then down to the starter motor.
Efectivley its the exact same wiring as if you had jumperleads on .
Next step is to get ya self a MULTIMETER ...... DickSmith etc have good elcheapo's
Once ya have one place the red lead on the positive terminal and the black lead on the negative terminal and get a reading....... it should show around 13.8volts with the engine running and 12volts with the engine OFF.
If its less than 13.8volts with the engine running then the ALT or regulator needs attention ASAP !!!
Kingy
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
yeah i have already checked the charge rate there is almost nothing going on. i have already pulled the altinator off. was going to pull it apart today but just had my wisdom teeth pulled and in a bit of pain
, hopfully tomoz she should be up and running.
cant belive how easy these things are to work on got to love jap engineering

cant belive how easy these things are to work on got to love jap engineering
just looking at the patrol bible 12volt alt output is 55 amps 24 volt is 25 amps i have 12 volt patrol and a 24 volt diesel 12 volt has16 amps on gage 24 has 18 if it is a true 24 volta the two batteries will be joined from left battery two right one with one lead if got a soleniod between them it' a24 two 12 volt
rickstrap wrote:just looking at the patrol bible 12volt alt output is 55 amps 24 volt is 25 amps i have 12 volt patrol and a 24 volt diesel 12 volt has16 amps on gage 24 has 18 if it is a true 24 volta the two batteries will be joined from left battery two right one with one lead if got a soleniod between them it' a24 two 12 volt

i have pulled the altenator apart and one of the brushes is stuck. Im trying to sorce a brush reg assy, but covs and repco dont sorce enzo altinator parts only bosh. on the back of the reg it says 12v and other than this i cant see anything else to sugest its charge rate in amps, parts numbers or brands. for this reason covs told me its an enzo altenator what they come out from factory.
so now im being told its a 24v system after just being lead to belive its 12v. im confused
so now im being told its a 24v system after just being lead to belive its 12v. im confused
trust us it 12V dont worry about repco etc take it to a good auto electrics guy and get the whole altenator done up properlyPatchy wrote:i have pulled the altenator apart and one of the brushes is stuck. Im trying to sorce a brush reg assy, but covs and repco dont sorce enzo altinator parts only bosh. on the back of the reg it says 12v and other than this i cant see anything else to sugest its charge rate in amps, parts numbers or brands. for this reason covs told me its an enzo altenator what they come out from factory.
so now im being told its a 24v system after just being lead to belive its 12v. im confused

PUT YOUR HANDS UP IF YOU WANT TO GO FASTER
RTD Racing
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well she is running. no-one stocks parts for sd33 altenators from what i could find (they just tryed to flog off entire altenators for $300.oo+), so i went to the local auto spark where they changed the brushes and reg.i put it all together and as you would expect charging at just under 14v. the price for the brushes and reg with labor came to $80.oo (i would have saved myself $20.oo if i did the soldering myself)
just some useless trival sh#t about the altenatos the sparky told me, was the diodes usually burn out on these ALT as there only rated to 15amps and the out put is well above 55amps when fully loaded. this is his explanation as to why no one just carries brush and regs for these coz it is easier and just as cheap usually to replace to entire unit.
just some useless trival sh#t about the altenatos the sparky told me, was the diodes usually burn out on these ALT as there only rated to 15amps and the out put is well above 55amps when fully loaded. this is his explanation as to why no one just carries brush and regs for these coz it is easier and just as cheap usually to replace to entire unit.
they are most likely voltmeters and not ammetersrickstrap wrote:just looking at the patrol bible 12volt alt output is 55 amps 24 volt is 25 amps i have 12 volt patrol and a 24 volt diesel 12 volt has16 amps on gage 24 has 18 if it is a true 24 volta the two batteries will be joined from left battery two right one with one lead if got a soleniod between them it' a24 two 12 volt
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