Vibration in drivetrain. GRRRR it's still there.

[84ZOOKSTA]

I recently installed another transfer case in my sierra, since then i have really bad vibration (transfer case knob goes side to side about 1-2cm) in first gear at about 20kPh whien i am excelerating but only in 2WD. When i put it in 4High i have little to no vibration at all, and pretty much no vibration at any other speed in 2H.

Has anyone had this problem before and have found a solution?
Or could just point me in the right direction to finding out why.


Cheers
Simon...

[built4thrashing]

did you align the tailshafts correctly?????you need to line up the dots on the slip joint . otherwise it could be something in the S3's thats outa wack.

B4T

[84ZOOKSTA]

Na I did not line it up.
I might have to have a look at that tomorrow.

Thanks.

Simon

[lay80n]

Sounds like the uni's are out of phase on the shaft. As already said, make sure that the uni's are both aligned when the shaft is out together. Are the transfer mounts okay?? Also did you change the jack shaft over at all??? Check uni condition, drive shaft phasing and mounts for case and box.

Layto....

[84ZOOKSTA]

Had a look under the zook tonight and the rear UNI is Stuffed.

I am now looking for a new one.

Does anyone know of a good place in the eastern subs of melbourne to get a new one.

Cheers
Simon.

[christover1]

Bearing Wholesalers
Bayswater Bearings
Barry St Bayswater 9762 3255
FAX 9762 9654

these guys stock good quality uni joints.

christover

[84ZOOKSTA]

Are Unis easy enough to do yourself as i have never done one before.


Cheers
Simon.

[christover1]

Are Unis easy enough to do yourself as i have never done one before.
Cheers
Simon.

Being stuck with rust can sometimes be a pain.
1.o litre unis with internal clips are a bit harder.
In a vice is best, using the vice and a socket to push caps in.
I dont use a vice, I kneal on the floor
I use a largish drift, knock cap in slightly, then clip is looser and easier to get out. I support other side with a large socket, so other end cap can slide out.
repeat for others.
The once clips are out, push one cap in far enough, to enable removing opposite cap.
this will make more sense as you do it.
Its fiddly but achievable.

Important when assembling, to keep it all as straight as possible, as you can dislodge the needle rollers. A touch of grease can help, but not too much, or grease will push them out of line.
If cap don't go all the way in, you have likely knocked a roller out, just pull out and stick it back in.

christover

[84ZOOKSTA]

Thanks christover, i just had a look at the service manual and it sort of explains how to do it.

Thanks heaps for your help.

Simon..

[dank]

how does the zook go now with the S3s in?

[84ZOOKSTA]

It is great. It has given me many more options compared to the standard case, Like it use to bog down in 1st low and i had no other option but now 3rd low is about the same ratio as 1st low use to be, so now i can just change gear and get some drive back.

We have to go for a drive soon. I did Andersond track on sunday and it was good. am hoping to go for another drive next sunday if you are interested.


Cheers
Simon..

[christover1]

PS
They appear to be original uni joints. They have done well.

New ones will be greasable, with nipples, so don't forget to grease them after mud and water driving, or they won't last as long.

christover

[84ZOOKSTA]

Yeah i think they would be the origional ones, The Sierra has just ticked over 163000.

What sort of cost are the uni-joints?
Should i replace both of the uni's in the rear tailshaft at the same time?

Simon..

[christover1]

Yeah i think they would be the origional ones, The Sierra has just ticked over 163000.

What sort of cost are the uni-joints?
Should i replace both of the uni's in the rear tailshaft at the same time?

Simon..

I paid around $30 last time I got a newy, I think.

You should change them both, but I never do
I keep using 2nd hand ones from me pile of bits,
or I change tailshafts etc
It's usually the diff one that wears first.

I'd suggest change both, and carry the better one as a spare.

christover

[built4thrashing]

hey simon. if ya need help just bring ya new uni and tailshaft to my house and ill help ya swap it over. i done a few in my time. call me if keen

B4T

[84ZOOKSTA]

Thanks for the recomendation christover, Went to the Bearing Warehouse and got the uni's $15 each so i bought 2 and change over them both.


Did the change over yesterday found the rear uni was completly stuffed and looks like it has been for awhile also. I have attached the pics of the old and the new just to show you how bad it was.

It Just goes to show that every things looks ok when there is something wrong, as in i checked them out when i was under there 2 months ago and all looked ok. (well i thought they looked ok)

Thanks for all you help.

Cheers
Simon..

THE STUFFED ONE.

THE NEW ONE.

[christover1]

Doesn't need a trained eye to see that is stuffed
1.0 litre stuff never ceases to amaze me, parts can be stuffed as, and still we are able to drive happily fer months
$15 each, very good price, he must like you

good work, it will go way better now.
1.0 litres really know when unis and other driveline parts are stuffed.
Even now, with a 1.3 mine goes heaps better with good tailshaft and unis.

christover

[84ZOOKSTA]

I have just spent the last 3 hours under the sierra trying to find out whats causing the vibration.

I have changed the rear uni's (which were stuffed), Checked the alignment of the tail shaft and yoke( Dots line up) Change the transfer case brackets and rubber bushes, even fliped the trail shaft around and had the yoke end at the diff and not at the transfer case, Rotated tyres (front to back, back to front.), i even put the old transfer case back in and the transfer case still vibrates enough as you can see the knob wobble from side to side.

I must admit it is not as bad as it was when the uni's were stuffed but it is still there.

Still only under hard excelleration (worse in first than second) at only at 25-35Kph range.

Is there anything that i am missing or am i just paranoid, as i only have a very short gear stick because of the 75mm body lift it may just looks worse than it really is????


Cheers
Simon...

[bazooked]

being from the ts industry in the past, i can guarantee that ur ts is bent with unis looking like that, get ur shaft balanced and all will be sorted.

[84ZOOKSTA]

I can guarantee that ur ts is bent with unis looking like that, get ur shaft balanced and all will be sorted.

I am thinking that is my next plan of attack.

Does anyone have any specialists to recommend??? If not i will look in the yellow pages.


Simon..

[christover1]

Precision Balancing
5 Dempster St FTGully 9758 7189

These guys seemed to know what's what, when I was looking for tailshafts and info. Not cheap, tho.
I'd try and borrow one from somebody see if it solves the problem.
I'm not sure if the solid 1.0litre shafts are repairable or not?
But should be balanceable.
My tailshaft change solved a similar vibration.

christover

[84ZOOKSTA]

Thanks christover your handy to have around.

I will give them a call on monday.

Simmo.

[beaver700]

I have had a very similar problem to your before. My 4x4 gearstick vibrated in the same way as yours, and I found out that a few of the uni's were rodgered... After replacing the uni's I lined up the yokes and checked everything was in phase, but there was still some vibration. I then got front and rear shafts balanced, which cost about $250, but they really done a good job. One of the best things I done to my suzuki. Driveline ran sweet was afterwards...

[munga]

if you can get uni's for 15ea, do the intermediate shaft ones too. i'll bet theyre on their way out if your rear one looks like that (had the same issue recently, ended up doing all of them)