DUEL BATTRIES, SET UP ON GQ

Post by **bucketofbolts** » Mon Jul 24, 2006 6:29 pm

im after the best way to wire up a duel battery system on my GQ 90 model, (petrol) it isn't for a winch, just constant power for a fridge, and to be charged while driving, and isolate the main battery when the car is switched off, so it does'nt lose charge, i've heard many different ways, but whats the best way, cheers

Post by **shakes** » Mon Jul 24, 2006 6:54 pm

search through the auto elec section

much info there

Post by **BigMav** » Mon Jul 24, 2006 7:56 pm

get yourself one of these

http://www.redarc.com.au/smart-start.htm

and download the instruction sheet on how to wire up here

http://www.redarc.com.au/smartstart-techspec.pdf

Post by **klrevo** » Mon Jul 24, 2006 8:07 pm

exactly what iv just gone and done,

bought the redarc isolator for $89, and then bought the tray, bracket, battery, and leads all for $220, so $310 later iv got a decent, no bull5hit, no confusing dual battery setup......

now all i gotta do is put it in the car

dean

Post by **bucketofbolts** » Mon Jul 24, 2006 8:14 pm

cool, where do you get them from, and whats the difference between a isolater and a solenoid

Post by **-Scott-** » Mon Jul 24, 2006 8:33 pm

bucketofbolts wrote:cool, where do you get them from, and whats the difference between a isolater and a solenoid

It's a little confusing, because a solenoid is a form of isolator.

Essentially, an isolator is anything which disconnects an "auxiliary" battery when the engine's off, to stop "auxiliary" accessories flattening the starting battery. Note that any accessories connected to the starting battery (such as factory radio and interior lights) will still drain the main battery, even if an isolator is fitted.

There are different types of isolating system with different complexities - I'll try to describe some:

1. Switch. The simplest and cheapest option. Relies on somebody manually opening the switch when the engine's off, and closing the switch again once the engine is started.

2. Solenoid. AKA relay, an electrically operated switch, typically wired so that the two batteries are connected while the engine is running, but disconnected while the engine is off.

3. "Smart" Solenoid. As above, but monitors the starting battery, and won't connect the auxiliary to the charging circuit until it detects that the starting battery is close to fully charged.

4. Isolator. Typically a solid state device, using transistors to switch charging current, rather than a set of mechanical contacts. Most isolators function the same as smart solenoids, with the added benefit of limitiing charge current to deep cycle batteries. This is required because a modern automotive charging system is capable of delivering much more charge current than is good for a severely depleted deep cycle battery. So an isolator may reduce the charge current to a severely depleted deep cycle battery until the battery voltage rises high enough to indicate that it can accept a higher charge current.

As you can probably guess, the more sophisticated it gets the more expensive it gets.

Cheers,

Scott

Post by **klrevo** » Mon Jul 24, 2006 8:34 pm

can get them from most 4x4 shops, online shops, battery suppliers, EBAY where i got mine from, they retail for $150, so id think ebay would be the way to go, i picked everything else up from local battery world.

the redarc isolator makes life simple. theres nothing confusing about it, three leads are needed, a positive from existing battery to isolator, then isolator to new battery positive, then a negative from new battery to chassis/body.

the isolator is a 100AH model, with spike protection for alarms, airbags and ecu in modern cars, with a 400ah surge protection. it charges the starting battery first, then the auxilliary, and ISOLATES the starting battery when the car is turned off and draws from the auxilliary, protecting your starting battery ensuring you can start your vehicle, provided your accessories are wired through your auxilliary battery...make sense?

the redarc is the most basic, yet most efficient system,

dean

edit: plus what scott said, he knows more than i do

Post by **bucketofbolts** » Mon Jul 24, 2006 8:54 pm

the isolator i have at the moment is the round silver type, but unsure how to wire it up, we have positve 1 side, positive the otherside, lefthand/righthand posts, and 2nd from right is earth, but not sure what the other 1 is, would it be power to the isolator from ignition

Post by **of4x4** » Tue Jul 25, 2006 1:10 pm

I've got the redarc in my GQ. Been there for 18+ months through thick and thin and no problems. Highly recommended.

In addition to what has already been said, you can also wire up a switch into the cabin to override the intelligence and link the 2 batteries. Very handy if you need some extra battery grunt for winching or happen to leave your lights on and flatten the main battery

. Saves having to pull out the jumper leads.

Another feature is that you can also wire in a light to indicate when the second battery is charging.

Post by **klrevo** » Tue Jul 25, 2006 1:22 pm

yeh definitely,

the redarc website shows all the wiring diagrams for wiring in a jump start button, a monitor light, linking batteries, and all different sorts of things, not often a company gives out this information free of charge

dean

Post by **-Mick-** » Tue Jul 25, 2006 4:33 pm

I'd originally purchased a redarc but changed to one of these

http://www.traxide.com.au/trax1sc80_2.html

all the advantages of the redarc plus allows ne to install a 3rd battery easily when I eventually need to

The guy who makes them is really helpful

Another really cool advantage is that where the redarc isolates the main completely when ignition is off the one above doesn't. There is extra power stored in the main batt and the one in the link senses voltage allowing the main to discharge down to a safe level before isolating it.

You still get to be 100% sure the main will start your car but may get an extra 1/2 or full day or something out of your fridge before a recharge

Considering how much you pay per Ah for batteries it seemed like smart stuff to me

Post by **chimpboy** » Tue Jul 25, 2006 5:21 pm

-Mick- wrote:I'd originally purchased a redarc but changed to one of these

http://www.traxide.com.au/trax1sc80_2.html

Sounds good. That's drivesafe from this forum isn't it?

Post by **of4x4** » Tue Jul 25, 2006 5:26 pm

-Mick- wrote:I'd originally purchased a redarc but changed to one of these

http://www.traxide.com.au/trax1sc80_2.html

I like some of the wiring options of the traxide device, but the water proofing of it would concern me. - I often take mine swimming....

Just curious if you had any issues with the redarc that prompted the change?

Personally, I don't like the fact that my redarc doesn't have any sort of cover over the live +ve voltage terminals, but I heard a rumour that the new ones do have a cover? Anyone confirm?

Post by **Beastmavster** » Tue Jul 25, 2006 6:09 pm

Looks good to me.

No electronic device is going to be waterproof. Mounting it in cabin would be the best bet, but failing that a splashguard and very high on the firewall would probably do.

Just dont mount it in a spot that the water basically can flow up your inner arches.

Post by **-Mick-** » Wed Jul 26, 2006 4:48 pm

The guy who makes traxide is on this forum but I won't mention his name.... not sure if that's the cool thing to do

of4x4 I never installed the redarc. Sold it on. You need to mount the traxide unit close to the battery (can cause problems with the voltage sensing if far from main) and it is water resistant so splashes are ok. But submerging it is bad like any electronics.

Post by **vanbox** » Wed Jul 26, 2006 8:08 pm

i have a dual battery on my GQ. the main battery only runs the factrory accessories (headlights, dashlights, and takes care of starting). my auxillary is wired through a solenoid valve to the main battery (it runs ALL accesories>spotties, cd player, fridge, air horns (and anything else i will add).

when the key is "off" both batteries are isolated from each other. when in "on" position both batteries are linked together for maximum amps to starter motor (about 1200). and whlile the engine is running both are linked so the alternator charges both.

hence with the car off i can run my fridge/stereo til the battery goes flat and still be able to start it.

heavy duty wire and solenoid from super cheap (about $30) and lots of fiddling

hope that makes some sense

Post by **MQSWBUTE** » Wed Jul 26, 2006 9:11 pm

on a std setup u have a battery which does everything
relocate the battery inside the cabin hook up a deep cyle battery in parrell circuit put a iso switch between both batterys run ur fridge off ur deep cyle battery while driving have the switch open so the alt charges ur cracking battery and aux battery once your 4wd has stopped shut off the switch between ur cracking battery and aux battery and will not effect ur cracking battery

if you dont like the manuel switch get a elec isolater ($400) for top of the line from phrania off road products for cheaper smart soli from arb for ($210)

heres my setup u might find useful

Post by **bucketofbolts** » Wed Jul 26, 2006 9:24 pm

sounds good to me, i will just put a toggle between the two batteries, thanks heaps, (3rd rock rocks)

Post by **MQSWBUTE** » Wed Jul 26, 2006 9:52 pm

i gone the cheap way by shuttin it off myself etc more bits more room for things to go wrong

cheers
justin

hope i chould help you out

Post by **bucketofbolts** » Wed Jul 26, 2006 10:18 pm

cool, i want it as simple as possible, i will set it up like whats in the 1st diagram,

thanx ray

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