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ford alternator wiring
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ford alternator wiring
I have just fitted a EF falcon alt to my sierra and dont know where to connect the wires to. I have the battery wire connected but the two from the connector plug on the side need to go somewhere. Atm it doesnt seem to be charging at all.
thanx B4T
thanx B4T
1999 SQ625 Manual Grand Vitara. Lifted, Twin Locked, 31' Extremes, dual Batteries, Winch.
Lots of custom gear as I cant afford the proper stuff.
Lots of custom gear as I cant afford the proper stuff.
Sadly all the forums on ford stuff in oz seem to be very low on good tech.dogbreath_48 wrote:If all else fails, tru www.fordforums.com.au
Normally with a three wire alternator, you'll have the big wire to the battery , then one wire that also goes to battery (which you can just join to the big terminal if you want), it's a separate voltage sensor, and a third wire that goes to a dash lamp.
You should be able to leave the third one disconnected if you want... I think... but it is a useful diagnostic inside the cabin.
This is not legal advice.
Here, I found this description which should be useful:
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/alternator/conversions.shtml wrote: Alternator Wiring Connections
All internally regulated alternators have the same basic electrical connections. By comparing the descriptions below, it will be easy to change the instructions to suit the alternator you have chosen. If there is any doubt, take this write-up, along with the instructions for your particular car, to an alternator repair shop, and ask the counter man to identify the connections for you. Most places will be glad to oblige you, for a minimal fee, if any. Alternators typically have four external connections to the automobile's electrical system:
1. Ground. This is usually through the case, but some units require a separate connection, usually for the solid state regulator inside the case. If your unit requires a separate ground, run a short wire from the alternator to a convenient point on the engine block, or the chassis. If the connection is required for the regulator, a small wire, 14 Ga., is adequate. If it's for the alternator itself, use the same size ground wire as you are using for the output, at least 10 Ga., preferably 8 Ga.
2. Output. This connection carries the charging current from the alternator to the battery, and corresponds to the screw terminal on the back of the GM unit. It connects directly to the battery, usually at the battery connection on the starter solenoid, or to the ammeter, if you car has one. This wire will be either Brown, or Brown with a colored stripe, in a Triumph.
3. Sensing. This wire connects to the battery, either directly, or via some connection in the main battery supply circuit. Typically, it connects to the battery side of the fuse block. It's purpose is to monitor the system voltage, and increases or decreases the charging rate, depending on the system load and/or battery condition. This is a smaller wire than used for the output, and is usually Brown or Brown with a colored stripe. This connections corresponds to terminal 2 on the GM unit. In some cases, this wire is self-contained within the alternator, and there will not be a connection for this function. If so, just omit, or insulate and tie off, the equivalent wire in the GM instructions.
4. Indicator. This lead receives voltage from the ignition switch, through the charge warning lamp, when the key is turned on, but the engine is not running. This serves two purposes - it gives a visual warning that the alternator is not charging, and provides the initial current to get the unit to charge until it can provide it's own charging current. This wire is almost always Brown/Yellow in a Triumph, and corresponds to terminal 1 on the GM unit.
This is not legal advice.
chimpboy wrote: ...and a third wire that goes to a dash lamp.
You should be able to leave the third one disconnected if you want... I think... but it is a useful diagnostic inside the cabin.
Just to be clear:chimpboy wrote:Here, I found this description which should be useful:
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/alternator/conversions.shtml wrote: Alternator Wiring Connections
4. Indicator. This lead receives voltage from the ignition switch, through the charge warning lamp, when the key is turned on, but the engine is not running. This serves two purposes - it gives a visual warning that the alternator is not charging, and provides the initial current to get the unit to charge until it can provide it's own charging current. This wire is almost always Brown/Yellow in a Triumph, and corresponds to terminal 1 on the GM unit.
Some installations can get away with NOT running the indicator lamp, but not all. I'm not familiar enough with the physics to explain why, perhaps somebody else can help out.
The bottom line is, don't believe you DON'T need the indicator circuit - some get away without it, but not all.
Scott
thats corect i remember from tec that some alts wont charge if the dash light globe blows same would be the case if its not wired up.-Scott- wrote:chimpboy wrote: ...and a third wire that goes to a dash lamp.
You should be able to leave the third one disconnected if you want... I think... but it is a useful diagnostic inside the cabin.Just to be clear:chimpboy wrote:Here, I found this description which should be useful:
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/alternator/conversions.shtml wrote: Alternator Wiring Connections
4. Indicator. This lead receives voltage from the ignition switch, through the charge warning lamp, when the key is turned on, but the engine is not running. This serves two purposes - it gives a visual warning that the alternator is not charging, and provides the initial current to get the unit to charge until it can provide it's own charging current. This wire is almost always Brown/Yellow in a Triumph, and corresponds to terminal 1 on the GM unit.
Some installations can get away with NOT running the indicator lamp, but not all. I'm not familiar enough with the physics to explain why, perhaps somebody else can help out.
The bottom line is, don't believe you DON'T need the indicator circuit - some get away without it, but not all.
Scott
www.fordmods.com is far better to tech info in my opnion
fordforums.com.au is just full of wankers wanting to show off how much money thay have and dont do the work them selves and wouldent have a clue but could recomend an over priced workshop that could do it for you!and care more about getting swirl marks out of there paint then altinator upgrades by will be puting the same alt on my rover btw
range rover & series one landy!
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