Has anyone used a factory rover A-frame setup?

[TOY-08V]

Just wondering has anyone used the standard landrover A-frame in a different 4x4 instead of making one and how well did it work?

[Damo]

Just wondering has anyone used the standard landrover A-frame in a different 4x4 instead of making one and how well did it work?

I have a Rover A-frame in my zook. I can't say i've wheeled it but it handles on road great. You will love the lack of axle wrap if you're going from leaf springs.

The only suggestion I can make is from info I picked up from Rover guys, and that is to extend the lower control arms a bit. Mine are around 1100mm, which is a bit long I think. If I was to do it again I would put them at around 800mm.

Another tip is that the Defender rear diff has the taper for the ball joint on a bolt-on plate. That makes it easy to fabricate a bracket on your diff housing to simply bolt the bracket to (this is what I did). On older Rangies it's part of the diff housing.

[killalux]

i have used the rover ball joint in a fabricated a-frame, the joint works fine nice and solid, and flexes pretty good before it binds up. i have one for sale if you are interested, i have the defender bolt on plate, Maxi-drive heavy duty ball joint (near brand new), and the upper section that the joint presses into. Look in for sale section, i will seperate the rover bits.
PM if interested

[TOY-08V]

hey killalux, would u mind posting some more pics of ur set up? im very interested. thanx mate. im currently running a three link atm using cast bundera arms but they dont allow much flex. And ive got a set of nissan GQ rear control arms so i was thinking of using the lower nissan arms and a standard style discovery A-frame on top so its all factory stuff (easy to engineer).

[steel]

I would'nt use the ball joint, not tuff enuff, ball joint floggs out to easily. Every one with a coily rover that uses it hard considers other options for this link at some time or another. Better option is to use a pair of Rangie rear lower control arms, triangulated at the diff, essentially creating a triangulated 4 link. Use this arm's chassis & diff mounts in reverse ;eg Rangie chassis end of arm at diff end on your rig & vice-verca

[MKPatrolGuy]

Don't use factory nissan arms. They are only about 2.5mm seamed tube and will bend very easily.

[ljxtreem]

nothing wrong with an A-frame, I like A-frames
I dont like the ball joint thing though.
If its binding its going to flog out or bust, remembering that the A-frame is your top link so if it busts, your diff will roll out probly busting your pinion out, bust your tail shaft, bend your shocks, all bad.

Mock

[steel]

Or, use the rover a-arm & modify the axle link, replace the balljoint with a treg coupling fer instance

[Damo]

nothing wrong with an A-frame, I like A-frames
I dont like the ball joint thing though.
If its binding its going to flog out or bust, remembering that the A-frame is your top link so if it busts, your diff will roll out probly busting your pinion out, bust your tail shaft, bend your shocks, all bad.

Mock

That is a good point Mock. I think i'll look into fitting limiting straps.

Oh, and ZUK-16V, if you haven't seen/touched one of these Rover A-frames before don't be shocked when you discover they are FAWKIN heavy (the arms are cast, and quite thick). I've heard some people say that you lose weight when going from leaves to coils, but I reckon I ended up about the same if not heavier.