Painting your rig, with 100% outerlimits tech

Post by **chimpboy** » Mon Aug 07, 2006 12:04 pm

Post by **Brendan-s** » Mon Aug 07, 2006 3:04 pm

guud show explosion

Post by **bogged** » Mon Aug 07, 2006 3:20 pm

painting rims?

well done dude.

Post by **Hekta** » Mon Aug 07, 2006 4:31 pm

hootus

Post by **mickyd555** » Mon Aug 07, 2006 5:55 pm

i was gonna do a search on this tonight, thank you Chimpboy........

Post by **chimpboy** » Mon Aug 07, 2006 7:40 pm

bogged wrote:painting rims?

well done dude.

Edited in! Also a couple more links besides.

Post by **bogged** » Mon Aug 07, 2006 9:51 pm

chimpboy wrote:Edited in! Also a couple more links besides.

Good work, although it will get lost in the lungs of general tech :(

We need an FAQ forum with this sorta shit in it. or we will end up with 20 stickys on each forum

Post by **mickyd555** » Tue Aug 08, 2006 7:16 am

couldnt it just go in the Bible??

Post by **Beastmavster** » Tue Aug 08, 2006 8:11 am

Bible is getting big.... we need all the bible stuff ine one place - a special forum section, rather than just a huge collection of stickys

Post by **chimpboy** » Tue Aug 08, 2006 8:40 am

One thing that didn't quite come clear from all these threads for me... when people refer to "enamel" paint in this context, they still mean acrylic, right? It's acrylic enamel, not some extra kind of paint other than acrylic?

Post by **Mick.** » Tue Aug 08, 2006 9:27 pm

chimpboy wrote:One thing that didn't quite come clear from all these threads for me... when people refer to "enamel" paint in this context, they still mean acrylic, right? It's acrylic enamel, not some extra kind of paint other than acrylic?

There are 3 main types of automotive paint.

There is Acrylic. It requires know hardener and needs cutting back and buffing to get a decent shine.

There is Enamel. It drys with gloss off the gun and doesn't need buffing. A hardener is recommended but not necessary.

Than there is 2 pac. This needs a hardener but has gloss off the gun and requires no buffing either. This is by far the best paint of them all.

Hope this helps.

Cheers Mick.

Post by **chimpboy** » Tue Aug 08, 2006 9:33 pm

Thanks, that does help. I'd also like to know which sandpaper grit to use at each stage of the preparation/painting process..?

Post by **Mick.** » Wed Aug 09, 2006 5:56 pm

chimpboy wrote:Thanks, that does help. I'd also like to know which sandpaper grit to use at each stage of the preparation/painting process..?

All paint brands have different recomendations but i'll give you a pretty close estimate.

If a panel is paint striped and needs bogging than the metal should be scuffed up with a grade around P36 grit. This will give the bog something to stick to. The bog will usually fall out if the panel isn't scuffed properly.

You can rub the bog down first with P36 if you like than work your way down to P80 than to P150 than finish off with around P240.

Fill any pin holes than your ready for primer.

I would only recomend you use 2 pac primer because it fills 10 times better than acrylic primer and doesn't sink back and look like crap a week later like acrylic does. You can buy cheap 2 pack primers for the price of acrylic these days anyway.

Once the primer is dry guide coat it with flat black (presure pack will do).

You can now rub it down with P400 wet than when that guide coat is removed dry the panel off and reguide coat it than rub it all down with P800 wet.

Once that is done you are now ready for colour. This type of preperation is what is recommended for acrylic and 2 pac.

If you painted it with acrylic I would recomend 6 to 8 coats of colour or clear if it was basecoated. This allows plenty of film thinkness for cutting and buffing.

Once the acrylic is dry than you can rub it down with P1200 until smooth then it's ready to buff up. Don't rub edges though or buff them to hard either.

As for enamel the preperation above can be used if you like or it can be as rough as you like.

Cheers Mick.

Post by **sniper** » Wed Aug 09, 2006 9:19 pm

The prob with 2pac is it has no flex at all, though easy to spray, so can crack when miss treated. 2pac is a harder wearing paint and can take the hits very well. Also more expensive then acrylic and enamel.

Acrrylic has a small amount of flex so can take abit more of a tumble, but will damage easier then 2pac form knocks and such. Cheaper then 2 pac, and easy to touch up.

I hate enamel paint cheap and nasty.

I agree a 2pac under caot is a good idea followed by either 2pac or acrylic finish. I like clear as it masks scratches better can can allow for alot of buffing further down the line.

There is also an acrylic baking enamel paint, gives a great hard finish but being baked for a finish dosnt really suite cars to well. Good for sliders and bars though.

Post by **mico** » Thu Aug 10, 2006 7:13 am

2k paint will flex as much as acrylic, is more durable and has high gloss off the gun

acrylic is easy to work with and repair but it will still crack if flexed too far because of the amount of coats needed (ie will be thick on the panel.

enamel is crap but cheap and glossy

as for baking paints in most cases the job will be baked at a low temperature (60-65 degrees), this will not damage anything!

from memory they bake at high temperatures at the factory because there is nothing in the vehicle to be damaged just a shell.

sorry to correct you sniper but people need to know what the go really is

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Painting your rig, with 100% outerlimits tech

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