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8274 hi mount mods.
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
8274 hi mount mods.
ok me hi mount has arrived today. i want to mod it and rebuild it before it goes in.
ok its a 8274 24 volt. what i want to do is pretty basic, want to comp work latter on with it too. can any one help me out with pics of the best way to do this. water proofing the motor, gear box and wiring.
i will also be stiffing up the barrel.
should get some extra lugs weld to the gear box to hold the top part to the bottom.
on last thing the plastic bearing in the end off the barrel should i mod that some how.
please help me!!
ok its a 8274 24 volt. what i want to do is pretty basic, want to comp work latter on with it too. can any one help me out with pics of the best way to do this. water proofing the motor, gear box and wiring.
i will also be stiffing up the barrel.
should get some extra lugs weld to the gear box to hold the top part to the bottom.
on last thing the plastic bearing in the end off the barrel should i mod that some how.
please help me!!
getting HALF CUT ready for mudbash 09.
hold on to your hats boys and girls.
hold on to your hats boys and girls.
There are heaps of mods you can do. The basic mods are to put rods accross the back of the drum just like a low mount to strengthen. Get your brake shaft modified so you can bolt the brake drum onto it so you don't have to rely on the circlip. Change the plastic bush for a bronze bush on the drum. Put a thin line of sicaflex around the join in the gearbox and also the motor. Put a circlip or "R" pin through the free spool shaft to lock it in place. They are the basic things, you can also extend the drum and make it skinnier. You can put air actuated free spool and pressurise the gearbox and motor with air. There are heaps you can do, its just your imagination that will limit you. Best filosophy though is to keep it simple. You don't need to strengthen the join in the gearbox. Just my 2c
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 6&t=231346j-top paj wrote:gayer than jizz on a beard
I don't have a pic handy but the brake drum is the wheel looking thing on the outside of the gearbox. It's held on the shaft by a circlip. As for the free spool handle I meant to drill a small hole straight through the shaft and put a pin through it so it doesn't pop out under a heavy load and send you flying back down the hilllux kid wrote:what is this brake drum you talk about? and y do put a circlip on the free spool sharft.?
pick would be realy good. im confused.
thanks
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 6&t=231346j-top paj wrote:gayer than jizz on a beard
Re: winch
When you remove the circlip off the brake drum, make sure you have a pair of vice grips or a small "G" clamp holding the actual drum together or it will spring apart and you'll lose your balls The bearings in the drumlux kid wrote:cool i get ya know.
will pull be pulling a part tomorrow.
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 6&t=231346j-top paj wrote:gayer than jizz on a beard
how have people wired up the 24 volt winchs.
have you use the standard set up or custom.
is it worth getting 24 volt alternator and battery, two 12v batterys and a 24v alter or run three batterys off one big 12v alter . one for starter and 2 for acc and winching.
have you use the standard set up or custom.
is it worth getting 24 volt alternator and battery, two 12v batterys and a 24v alter or run three batterys off one big 12v alter . one for starter and 2 for acc and winching.
getting HALF CUT ready for mudbash 09.
hold on to your hats boys and girls.
hold on to your hats boys and girls.
winch
pumping air though the winch motor! where is the best place to drill and tap the air fittings?
i have noticed the newer motors also have a heat sink type thing on the end of the motor.
is it worth getting one, when ill have air pumped it it?
my hi mount is pretty old, th serial number starts with a 2 witch isn't even listed on the warn site.
i have noticed the newer motors also have a heat sink type thing on the end of the motor.
is it worth getting one, when ill have air pumped it it?
my hi mount is pretty old, th serial number starts with a 2 witch isn't even listed on the warn site.
getting HALF CUT ready for mudbash 09.
hold on to your hats boys and girls.
hold on to your hats boys and girls.
When you pull your motor off you'll see that there is a gap between the magnets inside the motor housing about an inch from the gearbox end. Then tap into the endcap for the outlet. You won't need a heatsink. They come with the 6HP motors. You can get them after market if you wan't one.
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 6&t=231346j-top paj wrote:gayer than jizz on a beard
Here are some pics i found at http://members.shaw.ca/red90/8274_brake/8274_brake.html
This just shows the balls that fly every where if you are not careful
This is the mod that eliminates the circlip
This just shows the balls that fly every where if you are not careful
This is the mod that eliminates the circlip
8274 modifications
If anyone is after the dual motor setup let me know, if I get enough interest I am looking at selling it as a kit.
Let me know if you want any information.
Let me know if you want any information.
Posts: 1931
Joined: Sun Jun 22, 2003 10:29 am
Joined: Sun Jun 22, 2003 10:29 am
Location: Everything 4WD, 86 Camms Rd Cranbourne
Contact:
Posts: 1931
Joined: Sun Jun 22, 2003 10:29 am
Joined: Sun Jun 22, 2003 10:29 am
Location: Everything 4WD, 86 Camms Rd Cranbourne
Contact:
Also rebuild info here
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavist ... index.html
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavist ... index.html
My club
www.vfwdc.com
My store
Everything 4WD
86 Camms Road Cranbourne
www.everything4wd.com.au
sales@everything4wd.com.au
Phone: 03 59955055
www.vfwdc.com
My store
Everything 4WD
86 Camms Road Cranbourne
www.everything4wd.com.au
sales@everything4wd.com.au
Phone: 03 59955055
ok. im back, now that i have me winch in pieces its time to start moding.
already done the brake sharft. im about to tig more cross bracing to the gear box and other mounting plate.
im haven trouble understanding what i shout be doing with the free wheel sharft. where should i be drilling and pining the shaft.
will i stillbe able to use the free wheel it i do this mode?
thanks.
already done the brake sharft. im about to tig more cross bracing to the gear box and other mounting plate.
im haven trouble understanding what i shout be doing with the free wheel sharft. where should i be drilling and pining the shaft.
will i stillbe able to use the free wheel it i do this mode?
thanks.
getting HALF CUT ready for mudbash 09.
hold on to your hats boys and girls.
hold on to your hats boys and girls.
Posts: 1931
Joined: Sun Jun 22, 2003 10:29 am
Joined: Sun Jun 22, 2003 10:29 am
Location: Everything 4WD, 86 Camms Rd Cranbourne
Contact:
I think the pin is to stop it unlocking when you don't want it to.lux kid wrote: will i stillbe able to use the free wheel it i do this mode?
thanks.
It should be made removeable.
My club
www.vfwdc.com
My store
Everything 4WD
86 Camms Road Cranbourne
www.everything4wd.com.au
sales@everything4wd.com.au
Phone: 03 59955055
www.vfwdc.com
My store
Everything 4WD
86 Camms Road Cranbourne
www.everything4wd.com.au
sales@everything4wd.com.au
Phone: 03 59955055
love to see the schematic of these simple electronics.Davidh wrote:If you organise you're solenoids/relays properly, you can use a simple 2 battery 12v system to provide 24v to the winch, or 12v selectively, while still charging and running at 12v.
Simple electronics.
In the end, a 12v 6hp motor running on 24v is more than adequate for fast winching.
Posts: 1931
Joined: Sun Jun 22, 2003 10:29 am
Joined: Sun Jun 22, 2003 10:29 am
Location: Everything 4WD, 86 Camms Rd Cranbourne
Contact:
Winch mods
These pictures are of the dual motor GP winch modification. I am the Australain distributor for them so pm me for details if you are interested in one.
Check out this site for a circuit diagram and explanation on providing 24v while charging at 12v.Shadow wrote:love to see the schematic of these simple electronics.Davidh wrote:If you organise you're solenoids/relays properly, you can use a simple 2 battery 12v system to provide 24v to the winch, or 12v selectively, while still charging and running at 12v.
Simple electronics.
In the end, a 12v 6hp motor running on 24v is more than adequate for fast winching.
http://www.4qd.co.uk/faq/bmnc1.html
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