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s11 disco front propshaft-defender
Moderator: Micka
s11 disco front propshaft-defender
it seems the disco s11 has a v8 and 2 td5 propshafts available.
all at different prices $500, $950 and $1100 respectivly. all oe parts
my mechanic says he cannot tell any difference between them and that they are the same length etc.
also is there any mods that should be done to improve over stock.
this is for my 98 300tdi defender that has been lifted and has a small vibration at 63km/h
serg
all at different prices $500, $950 and $1100 respectivly. all oe parts
my mechanic says he cannot tell any difference between them and that they are the same length etc.
also is there any mods that should be done to improve over stock.
this is for my 98 300tdi defender that has been lifted and has a small vibration at 63km/h
serg
I agree that will more than likely solve the problem, but unfortunately the LR disco2 front shafts have no lube points to the cardan joint unis, thats why they fail at regular intervals and do cost about $1000.
IMO I would get truckline or hardy spicer to make you a cardan joint shaft using a greasable joint like a Hilux unit, then you could at least buy bits for it cheaper and they are maintainable/ greasable.
JC
IMO I would get truckline or hardy spicer to make you a cardan joint shaft using a greasable joint like a Hilux unit, then you could at least buy bits for it cheaper and they are maintainable/ greasable.
JC
'92 Rangie Sherwood/turbo intercooled isuzu4BD1 /ACE/ full leather/2.5" exh/2.5" body lift/DeCarbon shocks/LR tanks/LT95 back in and OK now, Sals conversion soon...
Yep, I will agree with all that. My DC joint on the Disco failed last year on the way back from the Simpson Desert. The Disco had only done 17,000km, DC fell apart, hit the ground while I was doing almost 100km/h then bounced back up destroying the cat, exhaust and craking the transmission.justinC wrote:I agree that will more than likely solve the problem, but unfortunately the LR disco2 front shafts have no lube points to the cardan joint unis, thats why they fail at regular intervals and do cost about $1000.
IMO I would get truckline or hardy spicer to make you a cardan joint shaft using a greasable joint like a Hilux unit, then you could at least buy bits for it cheaper and they are maintainable/ greasable.
JC
Ihad it towed back to melbourne expecting it to be fixed under warranty, only to be told they would not cover it because I had a lift. The lift was only there because the front had sagged due to bar and winch and when it was measured I was only 4mm outside Landrover specs but they still would not do the work.
Thanks,
Adam
Adam
The Hardy Spicer one is the Landcruiser sized DC joint, though they're about $1k. To do this they've had to manufacture a new flange to suit the Rover DC output flange.justinC wrote:IMO I would get truckline or hardy spicer to make you a cardan joint shaft using a greasable joint like a Hilux unit, then you could at least buy bits for it cheaper and they are maintainable/ greasable.
JC
Cheers
Slunnie
Discovery TD5, Landy IIa V8 ute.
Slunnie
Discovery TD5, Landy IIa V8 ute.
Do you think the $1k is worth the money?
You can get an existing shaft rebuilt with a greasable DC for about $350 wasn't it Simon? I have not heard about anyone having trouble with one of those yet...as long as you keep it greased.
I am sure the stock DC's are failing because a a couple of variable.
1. Water - they are meant to be sealed but they aren't and water seems to wash out the grease easily
2. heat - more of a problem on the V8 where the DC is very close to the CAT.
IMHO if you keep a stabdard DC greased it would be fine.
You can get an existing shaft rebuilt with a greasable DC for about $350 wasn't it Simon? I have not heard about anyone having trouble with one of those yet...as long as you keep it greased.
I am sure the stock DC's are failing because a a couple of variable.
1. Water - they are meant to be sealed but they aren't and water seems to wash out the grease easily
2. heat - more of a problem on the V8 where the DC is very close to the CAT.
IMHO if you keep a stabdard DC greased it would be fine.
Thanks,
Adam
Adam
ADAM,
Yes, the stage 1came out with a DC, and if you are running an LT95 it will bolt straight in but I think you will need the front output flange from the Stage1.
Otherwise, you can get it retubed to suit any length you require.
JC
Yes, the stage 1came out with a DC, and if you are running an LT95 it will bolt straight in but I think you will need the front output flange from the Stage1.
Otherwise, you can get it retubed to suit any length you require.
JC
'92 Rangie Sherwood/turbo intercooled isuzu4BD1 /ACE/ full leather/2.5" exh/2.5" body lift/DeCarbon shocks/LR tanks/LT95 back in and OK now, Sals conversion soon...
Gday Adam, I've broken 2 stockers and 2 greasable DC's already. As to value.... I don't know. If you never have to replace them again, then I think that they are good value. If that save collateral damage then they are also good value - but the cost is pretty expensive.walker wrote:Do you think the $1k is worth the money?
You can get an existing shaft rebuilt with a greasable DC for about $350 wasn't it Simon? I have not heard about anyone having trouble with one of those yet...as long as you keep it greased.
I am sure the stock DC's are failing because a a couple of variable.
1. Water - they are meant to be sealed but they aren't and water seems to wash out the grease easily
2. heat - more of a problem on the V8 where the DC is very close to the CAT.
IMHO if you keep a stabdard DC greased it would be fine.
Cheers
Slunnie
Discovery TD5, Landy IIa V8 ute.
Slunnie
Discovery TD5, Landy IIa V8 ute.
Gday Max,Maxtd5def wrote:Hi Slunnie,
Is the Hardy Spicer version on the market now? Or still in trsting?
Regards
Max P
The bigger one it on the market now. I've spoken to Dave I think it was from Hardy Spicer in Sydney who confirmed the part with the head office in Melbourne I think it was.
Cheers
Slunnie
Discovery TD5, Landy IIa V8 ute.
Slunnie
Discovery TD5, Landy IIa V8 ute.
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