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Hilux 2.8 3L overheat. Up steep hills and very hot days.
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
Hilux 2.8 3L overheat. Up steep hills and very hot days.
I have already replaced the radiator.
replaced the temp sensor.
It 's fine most of the time except.
when over 35 degrees and under load 100kph on freeway.
when going up Mast Gully road. 1st gear hilll, in the dandynongs,(15 degree day,)
It was reving a bit in 1st.
I can go on a drive for hours with no problem unless its a very hot day.
and cools down quickly once revving freely at 2000rpm (not in gear).
Is there anyone else with the same issue and what have they done to overcome this.
replaced the temp sensor.
It 's fine most of the time except.
when over 35 degrees and under load 100kph on freeway.
when going up Mast Gully road. 1st gear hilll, in the dandynongs,(15 degree day,)
It was reving a bit in 1st.
I can go on a drive for hours with no problem unless its a very hot day.
and cools down quickly once revving freely at 2000rpm (not in gear).
Is there anyone else with the same issue and what have they done to overcome this.
Hilux Slug 2.8D
Resident Terrorist
Re: ..
That just sent a shiver down my spine. holypilot wrote:had a problem like that with mine, and it ended up bein a cracked head. mine was cracked in the second and third cylinder
Was there any other things that gave that away. bad compression etc
Hilux Slug 2.8D
..
i had cracked the radiator and she overheated a few months before.i replaced the radiator and ever since then any hot days when she had to work , like going up a hill or towing something it would get hot.i thought it was the radiator again so i got it all cleaned out and flushed and on the way home from there the temp started to rise again, so to the mechanics she went and after a bit of lookin in there was small bubbles of air coming up through the radiator, so we pulled the engine apart and found 2 cracks.Hasnt missed a beat since
What have you got infront of the grill? Spotties? Insect Screen? Both? Is there anything that really blocks air-flow? If you say it heats up on the highway and up hills, then cools down fairly quickly free revving at 2000rpm, one would think it wasnt the fan, I could be wrong but i doubt the fan does alot when travelling at 100km/h. Process of elimination, Radiator is new so its not the radiator! Ide change the thermostat (as its most likely the cheapest part), What are the fan belts like? Are they slipping, causing the water pump to not work properly? (then again you should be hearing them scream) Could it be the water pump? But if worst comes to worst it could be a cracked head. was it the 2.4L's that were known for cracking heads or the 2.8L's? If it was me 1st thing ide do would be change thermostat, mine cost $22 for my 60series FROM TOYOTA!!!! I was Shocked, cheaper then ebay!!!
my 2c worth feel free to correct me
Troy
my 2c worth feel free to correct me
Troy
GXL HDJ80 Cruiser - Lifted, Locked, 315's, 3" Zorst, Safari Intercooled, High Flowed Turbo, All the fruit. AMMS tuned coal shovel, Pushing 148rwhp... + heaps of the black sooty goodness...
The only things in front is the Arb bull bar (no winch) and a pair a hella 160's.
And the Aircon radiator.
I have pulled out the radiator not long ago and it was fine no blocked fins etc. I like a bit of mud but havent gone wheeling for a while so no mud is possible,
I think its has to be a cracked head. I will check out for bubbles in the radator on the weekend.
And the Aircon radiator.
I have pulled out the radiator not long ago and it was fine no blocked fins etc. I like a bit of mud but havent gone wheeling for a while so no mud is possible,
I think its has to be a cracked head. I will check out for bubbles in the radator on the weekend.
Hilux Slug 2.8D
I had this problem last summer. And I was in FNQld! firstly replaced the thermostat and flushed the radiator, didn't work, then the fan. Still no good. Then I took the rad out and had it rebuilt. Worked a little bit better but still heated up on the highway under loads. Turns out somewhere along I had lost the bottom of the radiator shroud and the rad wasn't cooling everything. Somebits were hot and others were cool, also told by a mechanic friend to get a genuine thermostat. Turns out toyota sold them $25 cheaper than repco! I've had no probs since I fitted the shroud ($50 bucks from Toyota). Use a laser thermometer and run it along the radiator back when it's hot you'll see the difference if you rad is blocked or not cooling evenly.
To check for a cracked head. Fill you rad right up to overflowing and then start your car it'll start bubbling in no time at all.
If you want to check your water pump take out your thermostat and run the motor and take off your rad cap. If the water flows when you give it a good rev it's fine. The pumps are pretty tough usually it's all the other bits that we stuff up when we go tinkering.
To check for a cracked head. Fill you rad right up to overflowing and then start your car it'll start bubbling in no time at all.
If you want to check your water pump take out your thermostat and run the motor and take off your rad cap. If the water flows when you give it a good rev it's fine. The pumps are pretty tough usually it's all the other bits that we stuff up when we go tinkering.
Does the engine have to at temp to see the bubbles, because when cold there is none.
The shroud around the fan looks to be in tact. I seem to recall when we took out the RAD is was a two piece and it went back in.
The fan moves by hand easy but not freely. there is gentle pressue againt movement and it stops moving as soon as you stop. If you can follow.
So. any LN106 3L 2.8 owners, this is not a design fault to overheat on hot days. I will try changing the temp thingi (toyota one). but as it doesn't overheat all the time and only in extreame cases. 100kph with air con. UP steep hill at higher than normal revs. 3.3-3.7k
If what i have said about the fan is the problem is it worth changing to an electric fan.
Cheers.
The shroud around the fan looks to be in tact. I seem to recall when we took out the RAD is was a two piece and it went back in.
The fan moves by hand easy but not freely. there is gentle pressue againt movement and it stops moving as soon as you stop. If you can follow.
So. any LN106 3L 2.8 owners, this is not a design fault to overheat on hot days. I will try changing the temp thingi (toyota one). but as it doesn't overheat all the time and only in extreame cases. 100kph with air con. UP steep hill at higher than normal revs. 3.3-3.7k
If what i have said about the fan is the problem is it worth changing to an electric fan.
Cheers.
Hilux Slug 2.8D
my 2.8D will get warm if im absolutely giving it a heap in summer with the aircon on- read 3500+ Rpm, 3rd gear, 40 degree day....
Then agian, i know my viscous fan coupling has shat itself after 300K Kms ($500 for a genuine, $280 aftermarket! and 4 packs of oil from yota cant make it come good ) and i also know mine is overfueling cos the pumps worn...
The viscous fan DOES make a lot of effect- try running with the damn thing not there and see how well she goes- you can hear a good one dropping in and out as you put the revs on and she gets hotter.
Anyone know if a 1HZ fan hub from a late model cruiser will fit an LN106? they gotta be cheaper than a new one from a wreckers, and are a 3 stage lockup, and move a buttload of air when fully locked up...
might be going for a nosey poke down the wreckers soon
Then agian, i know my viscous fan coupling has shat itself after 300K Kms ($500 for a genuine, $280 aftermarket! and 4 packs of oil from yota cant make it come good ) and i also know mine is overfueling cos the pumps worn...
The viscous fan DOES make a lot of effect- try running with the damn thing not there and see how well she goes- you can hear a good one dropping in and out as you put the revs on and she gets hotter.
Anyone know if a 1HZ fan hub from a late model cruiser will fit an LN106? they gotta be cheaper than a new one from a wreckers, and are a 3 stage lockup, and move a buttload of air when fully locked up...
might be going for a nosey poke down the wreckers soon
2005 HDJ100 Manual, ARB bar, XD9000 winch, ARB rooftop tent + awning, Drawers, Engel, 2" OME lift, 285/75R16 KM2's, iCom, HID XGT's.
my rad had been done only 6 months prior to me getting mine.
However I did the timing belt and other stuff, so I flushed out the block and back flushed the rad. Some crud came out, even after the prior clean.
I also found that my aircon condensor was totally blocked, I couldnt see thru most of it when the rad was out. Grass seeds, insects, birds, hyundais etc
I back flushed it with water.
I have also gotten a piece of hollow 5/16 tube, put a small hack saw blade cut in it at the bottom where i have blanked the end off.
Fitted to a hose, it can be fitted down between the rad and condensor, and back flush the crap out of it.
When you had the rad cleaned out, you did clean out the block, and heater unit didnt you??
It sounds like either a blockage external, or internal.
Its working fine, untill you put it under extra load, then it cant cope. and is not exchanging heat correctly.
Could be worth flushing your block, and the rad again, and see what crud comes out.
Ive done rads before, and in 2 months, they needed cleaning out again as there was some crud hidden away somewhere, and it decided that after the clean it was a good time to come out.
Trying to suggest the cheap, easy basic things first before you get too creative.
Let us know how you go and what you find.
Trains
edited to add.
ive also come across badly pitted water pump impellers that had lost most of their blades, and would just work when normal running, but wouldnt cope with highway running high rpm. as they would cavitate, and not pump the water up at speed. Its a long shot, but not worth looking at just yet.
However I did the timing belt and other stuff, so I flushed out the block and back flushed the rad. Some crud came out, even after the prior clean.
I also found that my aircon condensor was totally blocked, I couldnt see thru most of it when the rad was out. Grass seeds, insects, birds, hyundais etc
I back flushed it with water.
I have also gotten a piece of hollow 5/16 tube, put a small hack saw blade cut in it at the bottom where i have blanked the end off.
Fitted to a hose, it can be fitted down between the rad and condensor, and back flush the crap out of it.
When you had the rad cleaned out, you did clean out the block, and heater unit didnt you??
It sounds like either a blockage external, or internal.
Its working fine, untill you put it under extra load, then it cant cope. and is not exchanging heat correctly.
Could be worth flushing your block, and the rad again, and see what crud comes out.
Ive done rads before, and in 2 months, they needed cleaning out again as there was some crud hidden away somewhere, and it decided that after the clean it was a good time to come out.
Trying to suggest the cheap, easy basic things first before you get too creative.
Let us know how you go and what you find.
Trains
edited to add.
ive also come across badly pitted water pump impellers that had lost most of their blades, and would just work when normal running, but wouldnt cope with highway running high rpm. as they would cavitate, and not pump the water up at speed. Its a long shot, but not worth looking at just yet.
Save the Whales......Collect the whole set.
My Wife Can't Shear..............But You Should See Her Crutch !
My Wife Can't Shear..............But You Should See Her Crutch !
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