Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
X link
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Xlink
hmmm might give it a go if my lux doesnt sell.
Ive been looking for a simple way to get alot of flex from a lux with a GQ front diff...
Thanks
Ive been looking for a simple way to get alot of flex from a lux with a GQ front diff...
Thanks
X is cross.hokey wrote:fell free to ignor this if you couldn't be bothered explaining it more but i fail to see where the X bit comes from. to me it looks like to flipped radius arms with a panhard rod. must have something to do with the big lump of steel paralell with the diff i am guessing
cross link. Links across the front .Links radius arms.
Chad
To save confusion how about "Bullhorn"??? (kinda looks like it from the front)professor wrote:X is cross.hokey wrote:fell free to ignor this if you couldn't be bothered explaining it more but i fail to see where the X bit comes from. to me it looks like to flipped radius arms with a panhard rod. must have something to do with the big lump of steel paralell with the diff i am guessing
cross link. Links across the front .Links radius arms.
Chad
Agreed that "X-link" sounds a bit like a 4 link, with two "X" formed by the upper/lower links.
George Carlin, an American Comedian said; "Think of how stupid the average person is, and realise that half of them are stupider than that".
So the radius arms aren't attached to the diff at all? just the cross link?professor wrote:X is cross.hokey wrote:fell free to ignor this if you couldn't be bothered explaining it more but i fail to see where the X bit comes from. to me it looks like to flipped radius arms with a panhard rod. must have something to do with the big lump of steel paralell with the diff i am guessing
cross link. Links across the front .Links radius arms.
Chad
Sorry i thoght you were refering to the text.hokey wrote:So the radius arms aren't attached to the diff at all? just the cross link?professor wrote:X is cross.hokey wrote:fell free to ignor this if you couldn't be bothered explaining it more but i fail to see where the X bit comes from. to me it looks like to flipped radius arms with a panhard rod. must have something to do with the big lump of steel paralell with the diff i am guessing
cross link. Links across the front .Links radius arms.
Chad
The radius arms are attached at the rear of the diff and the front of the radius arms ar attached to the cross link then the cross link is attached to the diff through the pivot point.
Help
Chad
X link
I spoke with Glen this afternoon and he said that the "standard kit" doesnt come with the radius arms... So for 800, all u get is the front piece of channel and the pivot linkage in the middle, is that right? How long is the front piece of channel across the front?
Can someone also post a pic of a standard radius arm from a 80series so i can have a look.
Thanks
Can someone also post a pic of a standard radius arm from a 80series so i can have a look.
Thanks
Re: X link
Thats correctjustinshere wrote:I spoke with Glen this afternoon and he said that the "standard kit" doesnt come with the radius arms... So for 800, all u get is the front piece of channel and the pivot linkage in the middle, is that right? How long is the front piece of channel across the front?
Can someone also post a pic of a standard radius arm from a 80series so i can have a look.
Thanks
This is designed to fit up to a standard 80 or gu if you are fitting it to a hilux or a leaf sprung rig you will need to get a hold of some arms and some springs or get them custom made.
as for lenght between 800mm and 900mm
Chad
Understand how it all goes together now but i'll just have to work out why it's better.professor wrote:Sorry i thoght you were refering to the text.hokey wrote:So the radius arms aren't attached to the diff at all? just the cross link?professor wrote:X is cross.hokey wrote:fell free to ignor this if you couldn't be bothered explaining it more but i fail to see where the X bit comes from. to me it looks like to flipped radius arms with a panhard rod. must have something to do with the big lump of steel paralell with the diff i am guessing
cross link. Links across the front .Links radius arms.
Chad
The radius arms are attached at the rear of the diff and the front of the radius arms ar attached to the cross link then the cross link is attached to the diff through the pivot point.
Help
Chad
Thanks for taking the time
-Calvin
Nice work, I could see this working on the rear of some road race cars with beam type rear axles such as super sevens, which a tight for space.
Might even be good on the rear of Pajero's if the Panhard rod is not in the way.
Well done Guys.
Might even be good on the rear of Pajero's if the Panhard rod is not in the way.
Well done Guys.
'2001 Disco td5
'90 Maruti Ute 1Ltr Lwb
Experience is something you don't get, until just after you need it.
'90 Maruti Ute 1Ltr Lwb
Experience is something you don't get, until just after you need it.
Thats what its all about The custom work.Zute wrote:Nice work, I could see this working on the rear of some road race cars with beam type rear axles such as super sevens, which a tight for space.
Might even be good on the rear of Pajero's if the Panhard rod is not in the way.
Well done Guys.
Bring it on.
normal radias arms setups are fixed to the diff at both points meaning all the flex has to be in the bushes. by fixing the front mounting points of the arms to the piviting doovalacky, that now does the flexing rather then the bushes. but still provides castor, and controls torque.hokey wrote:Understand how it all goes together now but i'll just have to work out why it's better.professor wrote:Sorry i thoght you were refering to the text.hokey wrote:So the radius arms aren't attached to the diff at all? just the cross link?professor wrote:X is cross.hokey wrote:fell free to ignor this if you couldn't be bothered explaining it more but i fail to see where the X bit comes from. to me it looks like to flipped radius arms with a panhard rod. must have something to do with the big lump of steel paralell with the diff i am guessing
cross link. Links across the front .Links radius arms.
Chad
The radius arms are attached at the rear of the diff and the front of the radius arms ar attached to the cross link then the cross link is attached to the diff through the pivot point.
Help
Chad
Thanks for taking the time
-Calvin
[url]http://www.vic.suzuki4wd.com/forum[/url]
I like it. Hmmmm might have to have a think about that for the rear of the G... should help to fix the weight transfer
Oh, hang on... diff cover in way
Oh, hang on... diff cover in way
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Well saidmuppet_man67 wrote:normal radias arms setups are fixed to the diff at both points meaning all the flex has to be in the bushes. by fixing the front mounting points of the arms to the piviting doovalacky, that now does the flexing rather then the bushes. but still provides castor, and controls torque.hokey wrote:Understand how it all goes together now but i'll just have to work out why it's better.professor wrote:Sorry i thoght you were refering to the text.hokey wrote:So the radius arms aren't attached to the diff at all? just the cross link?professor wrote: X is cross.
cross link. Links across the front .Links radius arms.
Chad
The radius arms are attached at the rear of the diff and the front of the radius arms ar attached to the cross link then the cross link is attached to the diff through the pivot point.
Help
Chad
Thanks for taking the time
-Calvin
I understand all of the above, and the limitations of the original design. But don't you still get some flexing in the bushes?professor wrote:Well saidmuppet_man67 wrote:normal radias arms setups are fixed to the diff at both points meaning all the flex has to be in the bushes. by fixing the front mounting points of the arms to the piviting doovalacky, that now does the flexing rather then the bushes. but still provides castor, and controls torque.
Perhaps I'm missing something: if you've got parallel arms tied together at three points on each, then twist the two arms, the three points are no longer the same distance apart. So the bushes on each end of the X-link must be flexing a little, although nowhere near as bad as in the original design. Any idea what the displacement is?
Scott
what do you ues for a pivot bearings or bushes?
and also whatn are they like onroad as i have a disco with gq diffs and they are finicky with steer shimmy
and also whatn are they like onroad as i have a disco with gq diffs and they are finicky with steer shimmy
http://www.4wdaction.com.au/shed/index.php?id=1097&im=1
[quote="squik"]He He... every time I turn off my protection my box gets slammed with spam....
[/quote]
[quote="squik"]He He... every time I turn off my protection my box gets slammed with spam....
[/quote]
There is a small amount of displacement as you said not as bad as the original design. on mine the Cross link moves around 20mm 10mm up and 10mm down the side displacement you talk about on mine is probably around 4-5mm.-Scott- wrote:I understand all of the above, and the limitations of the original design. But don't you still get some flexing in the bushes?professor wrote:Well saidmuppet_man67 wrote:normal radias arms setups are fixed to the diff at both points meaning all the flex has to be in the bushes. by fixing the front mounting points of the arms to the piviting doovalacky, that now does the flexing rather then the bushes. but still provides castor, and controls torque.
Perhaps I'm missing something: if you've got parallel arms tied together at three points on each, then twist the two arms, the three points are no longer the same distance apart. So the bushes on each end of the X-link must be flexing a little, although nowhere near as bad as in the original design. Any idea what the displacement is?
Scott
The bushes are still going to cop a hard time as with any 4x4 off road.
cooter wrote:what do you ues for a pivot bearings or bushes?
and also whatn are they like onroad as i have a disco with gq diffs and they are finicky with steer shimmy
What you want all my secrets
Are you conserned that this will increase your steering shimmy??
(steer shimmy)this may be that your caster is not setup correcty. are you running a large lift with standard settings on the diff???
Chad
Glad to say that the XLinks will be in stock ready for dispatch late next week
So place your orders
And for those who have paid keep an eye out on the mail (courier)
Chad
0418441064
PS I have lost all info in my inbox of OL. pm me again if i havent contacted you.
So place your orders
And for those who have paid keep an eye out on the mail (courier)
Chad
0418441064
PS I have lost all info in my inbox of OL. pm me again if i havent contacted you.
Last edited by professor on Mon Jan 01, 2007 4:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests