ATTENTION : FerociousFeroza - BODYLIFT

[*BESTY*]

BODY LIFT

Your body is held together with 10 Bolts
From reading your intro, you are aware that you need 10 body blocks and 10 longer bolts !

2 x Front Crossmember
2 x Inside front cabin, near where your feet go !
2 x by the lever to operate the seatbacks
2 x underneath front of rear seats
2 x captive bolts at the rear (can be a real biatch to remove)

Start by loosening all the bolts, the steering shaft and watch out for the sttretch on the hoses (radiator, brakes, fuel lines, and fuel neck filler)

Begin in one 'corner' and remove the corresponding bolts that will prevent lift. ie. if you start at the drivers side, remove both front bolts and the 2 other drivers side bolts.

Place a sissor/bottle jack on top of the front driveres wheel, place a small board on top of the jack and slowly jack it up until you can just slide the new lift block into place (keeping the small rubber protectors).

Loosely put the new bolt in and continue doing the other corners.

This is how I did mine (originally), other people may have other/better suggestions on how to achieve a body lift.
It should only take a couple of hours with someone else helping you.

When you do your body lift, can you please take lots of pics of each step and post them on the board, as it is a frequently asked thing that Feroza owners want to do to their trucks, and it would be a really helpful tool to refer to.

Good Luck

[*BESTY*]

Forgot to add.......


When all blocks in place, tighten them and reconnect your steering column. Check your brake lines, radiator hoses and fuel filler neck (it may have popped off).

I think Kent T has also done....or knows of a way to lift the front and rear bars to match the body lift. I didn't worry about the bars, just put up with the 2" gap that it left !!

[murcod]

Excellent explanation- we need a FAQ sticky post!

[ShinyDiscoBalls]

Thanks Besty,

"Besty" explanation I've received so far and am now confident I can do it myself.

I will take lots of pics when I do it and post them.

I have been asking 4wd shops who sell the blocks some advice and of course the "we don't know what is required until we do it" is a popular response. Must be due to them charging $800.00 to do it.

Thanks once again. I'm sure I'll have more questions re this.

Paul

[*BESTY*]

I think Kent T has also done....or knows of a way to lift the front and rear bars to match the body lift. I didn't worry about the bars, just put up with the 2" gap that it left !!

Kent, I'm inviting your great knowledge you have gained from the Mike (Feroza God) person as you still have a Feroza (US Rocky)....Mike has sold his....much to everyones disappointment .... and YES I know that he still frequents this list....BUT..... !!

Do you have anything to add on regarding bodylifts ??
I'm sure there are more people out there that have done body lifts, and I'm wondering if they all did theirs the same way !!

[Toyhatsu]

G'Day Besty and All.

This is a letter that I wrote to a guy here in the US that has three Rocky's and is wanting to beef up one:

Body lift:

Performance Accessories kit for an `86-`89 4Runner part # 5082 and was
$69.00.

This is a two inch body lift kit. The reason that I chose it was that it has ten body puks (bushings) just like the Rocky. You don't have to concern yourself about the steering shaft or the gas filler hose as there is plenty of coupling/ flex there. I did have to make a couple of simple brackets to lower some sensors/ vacuum line stuff in the engine bay(see brackets.jpg). You will need to buy some two inch longer metric bolts for
the rear two puks as the nuts and blots in the kit are American standard
thread. The nuts are spot welded in a blind area under the rear door. I
did this over the weekend and had to get the truck going by Monday so I
drilled two holes to get the nuts and bolts in there. It would have been
MUCH easier to have had the longer metric bolts. I don't notice it except
when I open the rear door and curse a little. I should put some plastic
plugs there. The front two nuts are spot welded also but I chiseled them
off and used the provided nuts and bolts there also. I did have to shave
off about 1/16 + from the Daihatsu rubber body bushings on the four mounts by the doors and use some larger fender washers there. The bumpers are also a problem as they will be two inches too short. Mike H. made me some aluminum spacers for the rear bumper and I rigged up the front bumper with brackets in the kit. I used the radiator drop down brackets provided in the kit. I jacked up the body one side at a time and used a piece of 2X4 between the body and the HiLift jack...otherwise you WILL dent the seam in the body by the doors. I have one side dented and one not but the rock sliders hide the dent. The kit said to start at the front and work your way back but this seemed wierd to me. I did one side then the other. Technically it is not too difficult to do but I would advise having someone to help...to run down to the hardware store for washers and encouragement. Actually it was a pain in the @$$ by myself and wouldn't want to do that again. The lift has been on for four + years now and no problems with shifting or broken body bolts.

Oh yeah, you will need 1 1/2" extension for the 4WD shift lever. I used a
pipe coupling and screwed this onto the shift lever and screwed the knob onto the coupling. This was an American Standard 3/8" (I think) and I just used a pipe wrench to screw it onto the metric shift lever...it won't come off.

and on to bumper lifts...

[Toyhatsu]

G'Day All,


I finally got arount to getting some pictures and measurments for the rear bumper lift blocks that Mike Hennessy made for me.
The outside two are different from the inside two as can be seen from the photos. The inside ones are with the four holes. I
screwed up in the pics rear_lift.jpg and rear_lift2.jpg and got the sides mixed up. The sides with the rusty ring around the hole
(washer shims) go towards the rear of the truck. The socket head machine screws that screw into the bumper are .125 pitch
and I used a 8mm wrench. The machine screws that bolt into the lift blocks were .150 pitch. I suppose that you could use .125
pitch for all screws. I used a dial caliper to measure things in thousandths of an inch...sorry about that but you guys are
probably more familiar with converting than I am...just one more reason to hate Americans.

After looking at these things I really appreciate the work that Mike put into them. If it were me I would have just welded some
steel in there but I am fortunate enough to have a MIG...I didn't at the time of the body lift though. I made notes as to machine
screw lengths but I can't figure out my scribbling...look at the pics. As close as I could measure there is 1.595 inches between
holes center to center on the stock bumper mounts. If you make some of these you can measure for yourself.

The picture front_bracket.jpg shows the front bumper lifts that I used in the lift kit. I did notch out the bracket and used two bolts
in the bottom and one in the top then had some spot welds to the frame bracket. You can also see that I took the trusty angle grinder
and modified the bumper so that the ends angle up...cut into the end caps and all. Got rid of the @$%& Rancho shock for the steering
stabilizer also.

[Toyhatsu]

More piccies

[Toyhatsu]

and more

[Toyhatsu]

[Toyhatsu]

[Toyhatsu]

These are the three engine bay brackets that I made to drop down...some stuff

[BundyRumandCoke]

You will need to lengthen the fuel filler hose. If you dont get this correct, the pull will crack the factory braising where the filler neck joins into the tank. Mine did. My body lift is 2 1/2 inches. You can get away with the spline on the steering shaft, There is enough length there.

[Ferwoaza]

I didn't have to touch my fuel filler hose or my steering shaft. I did drop the radiator 2", only had to drill 2 new bottom holes.

[ShinyDiscoBalls]

Thanks guys for all the additional info. Kent I got your email with the photos you sent on the weekend thanks. As usual I can't open the attached photos that are posted so is it possible for you to email me any you haven't already sent me? Much appreciated.

I have ordered blocks and bolts from Leon at Big Balls Off Road. Cheers for the info Murray.

Body lift coming soon to a Feroza near you!!!!!

[Andy]

Kent , can you post some more pic's of the front bumper brackets

[Toyhatsu]

Andy,

I have a custom bumper now so I can't get any more pics.

I just used a bracket (1"X3" strap...3mm?) that came with the Toyota body lift. It only had two bolt holes so the bumper was tippy until I put in some spot welds. I had to get the truck back on the road by Monday and just rigged it up. I think that if you used a piece of 2"x4" you could drill all four holes for bolts. It won't hold up to bashin roo's but will hold the bumper in place.

[Andy]

Thanx Kent ( Pad , Pad ) After lying under the Big-Rig for a while I was thinking the same as your pic

[al.capone1]

G'Day Besty and All.

This is a letter that I wrote to a guy here in the US that has three Rocky's and is wanting to beef up one:

Body lift:

Performance Accessories kit for an `86-`89 4Runner part # 5082 and was
$69.00.

Where did you buy this kit ? I am living in Holland.

Can you give me the site where you buy it I belive the kit is for a toyota 4x4 runner

This is a two inch body lift kit. The reason that I chose it was that it has ten body puks (bushings) just like the Rocky. You don't have to concern yourself about the steering shaft or the gas filler hose as there is plenty of coupling/ flex there. I did have to make a couple of simple brackets to lower some sensors/ vacuum line stuff in the engine bay(see brackets.jpg). You will need to buy some two inch longer metric bolts for
the rear two puks as the nuts and blots in the kit are American standard
thread. The nuts are spot welded in a blind area under the rear door. I
did this over the weekend and had to get the truck going by Monday so I
drilled two holes to get the nuts and bolts in there. It would have been
MUCH easier to have had the longer metric bolts. I don't notice it except
when I open the rear door and curse a little. I should put some plastic
plugs there. The front two nuts are spot welded also but I chiseled them
off and used the provided nuts and bolts there also. I did have to shave
off about 1/16 + from the Daihatsu rubber body bushings on the four mounts by the doors and use some larger fender washers there. The bumpers are also a problem as they will be two inches too short. Mike H. made me some aluminum spacers for the rear bumper and I rigged up the front bumper with brackets in the kit. I used the radiator drop down brackets provided in the kit. I jacked up the body one side at a time and used a piece of 2X4 between the body and the HiLift jack...otherwise you WILL dent the seam in the body by the doors. I have one side dented and one not but the rock sliders hide the dent. The kit said to start at the front and work your way back but this seemed wierd to me. I did one side then the other. Technically it is not too difficult to do but I would advise having someone to help...to run down to the hardware store for washers and encouragement. Actually it was a pain in the @$$ by myself and wouldn't want to do that again. The lift has been on for four + years now and no problems with shifting or broken body bolts.

Oh yeah, you will need 1 1/2" extension for the 4WD shift lever. I used a
pipe coupling and screwed this onto the shift lever and screwed the knob onto the coupling. This was an American Standard 3/8" (I think) and I just used a pipe wrench to screw it onto the metric shift lever...it won't come off.

and on to bumper lifts...

[Toyhatsu]

I tried to add some piccies that were lost in the crash. I didn't do too well as I couldn't find the original pictures...and couldn't figure out how to delete old posts.