Airlock in LPG tank??

[mu-stu]

Something's up with my LPG system....
The guage on the tank itself says there's no gas in it but when I try to fill it up hardly any gas seems to go in. Is it possible to get an airlock in the LPG tank? If so, how does one go about bleeding it?
Cheers,

[cloughy]

The auto shut off valve is most likely buggered, you can remove it and just fill while watching your gauge, make sure you don't overfill od KABOOM!!!

[RaginRover]

Might be an integrated valve though .... so he will need a new one - unless your talking about unscrewing the float off the end.

I changed my recently - the gas shop said you have to take the tank out and face it so the hole for the valve is at 12 o'clock and then turn it in gently and make sure it finishes with the marker at 12 o'clock in relation to itself.

Make sure you don't tangle the float with the other level sensors in theere and get it caught up and bend it - making the tank fill less than it should ( can you tell who did that ??) That is why they recommend you take the tank out at face it up.

The last one I bought cost me $90

Tom

[RaginRover]

one other thing, I had one come to bits right up the top of the fill limiting valve behind where the little mesh filter is a little pin filler system there it could be wrong there too, also there is a one way valve in most filler necks it should have a small spring loaded phillips head screw in the bottom of it, just put a little driver in there and wiggle it see if gas comes out. (it is not normally a problem though)

Tom

[mu-stu]

Thanks for the tips guys.

I ended up taking to Carbs & Gas near the Gabba and basically they had to tidy up the system and replace the converter. Apparently the filler line had kinked, therefore no gas going in but they said the system had never really been installed properly in the first place (over 10 years ago) and that it certainly wasn't roadworthy now.... great! So $1,000 later with all the piping secured, new filler point, new converter and the wiring on the Crane electronic ignition corrected it's now running properly. Let's hope it stays that way, after spending $1k!!

However, it now seems to loose water from the rad whilst standing for a few hours/ overnight, so as soon as I drive away, the temp hits the 100 quick smart. I've pulled over ASAP after noticing this and topped up the radiator (as the pressure sucks coolant back into the top up tank). When I run the engine with the rad plug out, there's some bubbling/frothing of the coolant.
1. would I have done much damage with these temps?
2. does this indicate something nasty?

(3.5ltr low comp carb)

And now the bloody rear diff seal and gearbox/TC are leaking like sieve!

I'm loath to spend too much more on the old girl at the moment as the last couple of things I have had done have cost me over $2,500 - which is how much I bought the bloody thing for!

Cheers,

[RaginRover]

check for air lock in the rad / heater core system - they probably haven't cleared it after changing the converter - the converter seals could be leaking and dripping down right under the car or on the exhaust.


Tom