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Running 35's

Tech Talk for Nissan owners.

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Running 35's

Post by Jameslux »

OK, sure its been asked before but what suspension mods do I need to run 35's on a LWB GQ
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Post by YankeeDave »

just get 4 sus and 2 body

or 4 sus with guard chop

and 35's will fit nicely
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Post by turps »

Search will come with a thousand threads on this all with answers.

But I ran 2"BL and 2"susp (ome, so it could of been 40mm, but it did have 140 000km on the susp so it had sagged).
I first ran it with no guard chop. And with no flares or mud flaps (car gets very dirty like this). They would rub on the inside of the rear wheel arch, Just on the front of the rear gaurds and also just on the rear of the front arches. Fitting radius arm spacers would fix the problem at the front and the rest you could live with.
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Post by Jameslux »

Thanks guy's. Where do you get flares to fit after a guard chop. I've searched the net and only found fibreglass flares. Was after rubber ones if poss but the ones I found need the lip on the guard to screw into.

Pics and tips on guard chop and flares would be appreciated.
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Post by mattlux »

Jameslux wrote:Thanks guy's. Where do you get flares to fit after a guard chop. I've searched the net and only found fibreglass flares. Was after rubber ones if poss but the ones I found need the lip on the guard to screw into.

Pics and tips on guard chop and flares would be appreciated.
try this place i got the flare that screws to the outside of the guard, it was about $15 a metre. http://www.clarkrubber.com.au/index.php ... ageID=4852
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Post by Jameslux »

They must have two types cause the stuff I got there a year ago screwed to the lip of the guard not the out side.
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Post by turps »

Jameslux wrote:They must have two types cause the stuff I got there a year ago screwed to the lip of the guard not the out side.
They have both
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Post by MQSWBUTE »

with these coppers crackin down on unroadworthy iteams i belive body lift blocks are deemed apart of it

why not try 3in spring lift and gaurd chop will fit in very nice try and keep a low centre of grav to reduce the chance of a roll over

for the rubber flares speak to smithy (bundyrum4x4) no doubt he can help you out

cheers justin
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Post by Vulcanised »

if you want flares, go to bunnings and get 6" garden edging, $60 for a 10 metre roll, and it leaves you enough for spares. Easy to fit too.

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Post by Jameslux »

Cool. I'm going 3" spring and 30mm body. A mechanic that works on comp rigs said this is the best combination to keep the centre of gravity correct and not need caster correction and run 35's.

I'll check out clark rubber for the outside screw type flare.
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Post by MQSWBUTE »

Jameslux wrote:Cool. I'm going 3" spring and 30mm body. A mechanic that works on comp rigs said this is the best combination to keep the centre of gravity correct and not need caster correction and run 35's.

I'll check out clark rubber for the outside screw type flare.

bigger tyres put out the centre of grav remember tyres lift your 4wds diffs higher from the ground lifting the while 4wd
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Post by TEAM FK »

can i ask how many ppl here are giving advice that have 35s on there truck.?

serouisly .. i ran 35s silverstone extreme's on my STOCK GQ LWB for close to 10000kms and yes it did rub on hard heavy tracks but i went everywhere my mates in there (lifted /35s winch you get the picture went)

in actual fact it was better in some places as it had a lower centre of gravity .Everyone was surprised by how well the gq handled.

Ive now sold that GQ but in high and sight the only difference id be doing long travel shocks and a 3 inch sus lift. thats all.

http://photothingo.com/users/1045/20060 ... MG0050.JPG

http://photothingo.com/users/1045/20060 ... MG0049.JPG

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Post by bogged »

TEAM FK wrote:serouisly .. i ran 35s silverstone extreme's on my STOCK GQ LWB for close to 10000kms and yes it did rub on hard heavy tracks but i went everywhere my mates in there (lifted /35s winch you get the picture went)
did the suspension flex at all?
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Post by TEAM FK »

it flexed enough to go where it needed to go. as i said i embarressed some of my mates otherwise it just might be im a brillant 4wd driver...
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Post by MQSWBUTE »

TEAM FK wrote:can i ask how many ppl here are giving advice that have 35s on there truck.?

serouisly .. i ran 35s silverstone extreme's on my STOCK GQ LWB for close to 10000kms and yes it did rub on hard heavy tracks but i went everywhere my mates in there (lifted /35s winch you get the picture went)

in actual fact it was better in some places as it had a lower centre of gravity .Everyone was surprised by how well the gq handled.

Ive now sold that GQ but in high and sight the only difference id be doing long travel shocks and a 3 inch sus lift. thats all.

http://photothingo.com/users/1045/20060 ... MG0050.JPG

http://photothingo.com/users/1045/20060 ... MG0049.JPG

http://www.photothingo.com/users/1045/2 ... 9.Car5.jpg
im advice comes from me i run 35/12.5 on my leaf sprung mq easy they dont rub never have and soon will have 36s and i cant picture then not rubbing

the example i gave before is based on a winch challenge car runs 35s on uted swb gq 3in spring lift and gaurd chop
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Post by InSanE »

best combination in my opinion for 35's is 3" suspension, 2" body lift, 14mm radius arm spacers and you will clear 35's all day long they will just rub on the inner guard part of the body at the rear. With 3" suspension your on the virge of getting away with only springs, shocks and linkpin extenssions, i opted to do adj panhards and the front brake line is border line with 3" coils.

this is my truck with 35's on it with 3" coils 2" body radius arm spacers etc and slight guard trim for the 36's i had and bush ranger flexi flares.

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Post by nzdarin »

I have a winch challenge truck with 3" springs that actually lifted it closer to 4" due to light wieght of my truck. It has a 50mm body and I've cut the front guards. When I first put 35's on all I had was a 2+2 lift and all that was required was the removal of the flares etc. Sure it rubbed the rear inner guard but that is almost impossible to stop.
One thing to be careful of is the horizontal seam on the rear inner guard. This is capable of getting peeled out and slicing the inner sidewall of both rear tyres! I had this happen to 2 new 35x11.5, and that was on a 3+2 lift and the tyres were on -21 offset wheels.
My next mod is to get lowerer springs to take it back to between 2" and 3" suspension lift and I'll also reduce the body lift height. The lower it is the better. How many race trucks do you see with big lifts? Most of the guys I'm racing with have between 2" and 4" of lift.
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Post by embryo »

TEAM FK wrote:can i ask how many ppl here are giving advice that have 35s on there truck.?

serouisly .. i ran 35s silverstone extreme's on my STOCK GQ LWB for close to 10000kms and yes it did rub on hard heavy tracks but i went everywhere my mates in there (lifted /35s winch you get the picture went)

in actual fact it was better in some places as it had a lower centre of gravity .Everyone was surprised by how well the gq handled.

Ive now sold that GQ but in high and sight the only difference id be doing long travel shocks and a 3 inch sus lift. thats all.

http://photothingo.com/users/1045/20060 ... MG0050.JPG

http://photothingo.com/users/1045/20060 ... MG0049.JPG

http://www.photothingo.com/users/1045/2 ... 9.Car5.jpg
no way they are 35s!
but i give you stock ride hight
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Post by BigMav »

I think they are but they always look smaller on a 16" rim.
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Post by MyGQ »

I managed to get 35" BFG AT's under my mav with a 2" sus and 2" BL and they never scraped but i did have the Sway bars still on.

I have now gone 7" sus and 2" BL so i can put 37's or 38's under her
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Post by Brett S »

lifting trucks is for dickywackers.
don't do any lifting just chop the gaurds till they fit and run cruiser rims to stop em hitting the iner gaurd.
yes i have rolled two patrols and although silly buggers had a bit to do with it lifting a vehicle is just gonna make you go diff up.
in summary chop the bloody gaurds without any lift at all, much safer.
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