transfer case (DefenderT230) bang

[RRturboD]

Diff lock engaged, crossing dry creek bed, lots of cross axleing, loud metalic bang from transfer case. Now, with diff lock engaged, motion is possible, but if stationary and unengage DL, no motion, forward or reverse. If you start with DL engaged, and disengage while in motion, clicking noise like gears not fully meshed, reengage DL, noise goes away, so the engage/disengage lever must be doing something.

I am hoping the problem is related to the amount of travel on the engage/disengage lever, now not fully disengaging the DL but leaving the diff in 'neutral' if this is possible.

I willl have a good look tonight after work, but would appreciate advice as just where to start the investigation.

[justinC]

CV failure sounds like. I would be jacking up each front wheel in turn and rotate and listen.

JC

[Rangie ute on 38'']

i think the linkage rods are threaded for adjustment, possible one of the rods has bent, sounds like the clutch isnt fully engaging and either jumps out or some times meshes on the move , my guess is with u on the engage and disengage prob, i cant see how a blown third diff could still intermediatly work like that

[Maggot4x4]

CV failure sounds like. I would be jacking up each front wheel in turn and rotate and listen.

JC

Yep, CV or Axel

[justinC]

CV failure sounds like. I would be jacking up each front wheel in turn and rotate and listen.

JC

Yep, CV or Axel

Or drive flange......JC

[RRturboD]

With DL engage, jacked each front wheel, no resistance to movement, no obvious clunks or extra noises etc as the wheel is rotated. with DL off, front driveshaft rotates smoothly, no hard points etc. With both front wheels jacked, started engine,DL engaged, front driveshaft rotates, no front wheel movement, no extra noises.
spose if I drain the diff oil and stick a magnet in drain hole... might get some metal? look through the filling hole, see movement?

I expected to hear noises or feel resistance as items were rotated.

[cooter]

centre diff cross pin id say if you unlock the cdl do either of the t shafts spin?
if no then its prob your diff pin or sun gears

[Bull Bar Cowboy]

If the front prop rotates when in diff lock then the centre diff cross pin must be OK ................ Sounds like a front Halfshaft ...... ususally the short shaft and if its the 10 spline it will have twisted and broken right at the splines ....... the broken part in the diff can be a bar steward to get out if the twist has locked it in there.


Ian

[RRturboD]

BANG source solved.... front diff cross pin ... so cooter was closest to the pin!, just wrong diff!

Now to find the diff centre I put away some years ago, and have it fitted as crown and pinion seem ok.

Here is the proof:




Photography services by www.rohanthomson.com

[Slunnie]

Can you just pull the centre of the hemisphere out and replace it in situ rather than having to fart around with setting the lash etc on the CW/P.

[Micka]

Can you just pull the centre of the hemisphere out and replace it in situ rather than having to fart around with setting the lash etc on the CW/P.

I love it when you speak Latin, Slunnie

[Maggot4x4]

Can you just pull the centre of the hemisphere out and replace it in situ rather than having to fart around with setting the lash etc on the CW/P.

I love it when you speak Latin, Slunnie

Go easy, he is a good teacher

[RRturboD]

when the pin broke, took a piece of the casting with it so one end of the pin would be in an elongated hole... not recommended.

[Slunnie]

Did I speak Latin.

[cooter]

have u got another centre?

[RRturboD]

Yep, I kept the centre from the rear of my '83RR when I had the truetrak fitted. Found it and had it fitted today, ready to fit in the morning.

[cooter]

was gunna say i dot a full 24 spline front end here cheap