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TD 80 Series

Tech Talk for Cruiser owners.

Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX

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Posts: 27
Joined: Wed Mar 09, 2005 2:58 pm
Location: hobart

TD 80 Series

Post by TASPAJ »

Hi Folks

While taking a 1995 TD 80 series GXL for a test drive the other day i noticed how spongy the brake pedel was. It wasn't fading away but the pedel had very long travel and was very spongy. Is this normal for an 80 series to be like this as it's the first one i have driven. The rest of the truck seams ok, runs really nice, it's done 258,00km and had services every 10,000. and had a turbo timer fitted since new. he wants $20,500 for it which i thorght was ok.

Cheers! :)
Pajero NH GLS 3.0 32" BFG Muds Kingsprings 2" ARB Bull Bar.
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Joined: Tue Aug 12, 2003 6:50 pm
Location: wollongong

Post by dow50r »

The master cylinder on an 80 is hard to get air out of, modt probably that or a loose wheel bearing...20 is acceptable, but not great...a friend picked up a td6 2003 nissan patrol for 28...now thats a good price...
Andrew
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Location: Weipa

Post by crankycruiser »

has the 80 been lifted at all?? the brake bias valve at the back may not of been re adjusted
Posts: 407
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Location: Hornsby Sydney

Post by Surfin Alec »

I got 97 TD 80 and brake pedal is crap. Real spongy and you can go to the floor if you push it hard.
I think the master cylinder is shot but they are dam expensive to replace. Between 300 (exchenge) up to 700 depending on where you shop.

I have just put it off for a while.
GO the 80...The mods have started :-)
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Location: Diamond Creek

Post by DNA Off Road »

Something is amiss – mine will near put you though the windscreen if you stand on the pedal. They need to be bled well – for some reason air hides somewhere [maybe master cyl as Andrew says] in my experience, you need to run quite a bit of fluid through. It could be a number of issues – things already mentioned and possibly dodgy pads as well. Only a method of elimination unless you get your head in there and have a look [assuming you know what to look and feel for]...

Cheers
Stock 'Cruiser X 2
www.dnaoffroad.com.au
Posts: 27
Joined: Wed Mar 09, 2005 2:58 pm
Location: hobart

Post by TASPAJ »

It's totally stock standard so it shouldn't be the brake bias valve. Hopefully it's just some air in the system. Going to go and have another look on Saturday. Is the Timing belt a big job on this model? cause it hasn't been relpaced since it's 100,000 service (58,000 overdue :? ). Does anyone know if they still had the big end bearing problems in this model?

Cheers!
Pajero NH GLS 3.0 32" BFG Muds Kingsprings 2" ARB Bull Bar.
Posts: 310
Joined: Thu Apr 20, 2006 10:38 am
Location: Melb. AU

Post by hdj105 »

Timing belt is simple and inexpensive, but the results of it breaking because of not changing it isnt! Oil changes should be every 5k km.

If it's 1995 built HDJ80 factory TD then it's the 1HD-FT multivalve engine which never suffered the big end problem.
Greg G
2000 HDJ105
Posts: 398
Joined: Mon Jun 21, 2004 7:57 pm
Location: Berwick, Vic

Post by g35me »

My 80 series brakes are spongy as hell and it has a new proportioning valve and master cylinder. And all the calipers have been overhauled. I think it is just a standard 80 series thing.
Twin Turbo V8 80 Series Ute with Extra Bits
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Location: europe

Post by Rampage »

hey TASpaj, it isnt dark blue is it, i think im having a look at the same one that you have test drove, you woul dthink if they have had regulare services they would have replaced the timing belt on one of them :?
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Location: sydney

Post by sniper »

I agree the oil should be done every 5,000km not 10,000.
I would do the big end bearings anyways every 100,000km also. Timimng not being changed is like playing with a grenade it will go boom sooner or later.
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