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Free wheeling hub fuse
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Free wheeling hub fuse
Sorry for my ignorance but I remember hearing something about this somewhere. If not would it work? My new 2000 watt 1/2" drill has some sort of clutch in it that slips if the drill bit grabs saving slippage in the keyless chuck and no doubt a few broken drill bits and human wrists. What if a free wheeling hub had an lsd type clutch pack in it that could be shimmed up tighter if needed for bigger wheels or more powerfull motor etc
Remember some days your the pigeon and other days your the statue
Like this ?
http://www.warn.com/truck/axles/hub_fuse.shtml
http://www.warn.com/truck/axles/hub_fuse.shtml
wtf is an acronym
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[color=yellow]Ctrl + W[/color]
Re: Free wheeling hub fuse
No, No, mine is far greaterDR Frankenstine wrote:Sorry for my ignorance
I don't understand what this is meant to achieve even after reading that Warn page
Is it to stop slippage like a locker
Or is it just too late for me and i need to go to bed
Kind Regards,
Brad
Brad
HUB
the clutch idea is Like a lsd diff opperation, the hub remains locked (once locked in) and when the preasure gets to much it slips (like a lsd does) if given to much mumbo.
Remember some days your the pigeon and other days your the statue
Re: HUB
Therefore it works awesomely untill the track your driving starts getting difficult and then your lim.slip hub starts to slip and you go nowhere, even though your $1500 air locker is engagedDR Frankenstine wrote:the clutch idea is Like a lsd diff opperation, the hub remains locked (once locked in) and when the preasure gets to much it slips (like a lsd does) if given to much mumbo.
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Premiers 1999, 2007, 2009
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Premiers 1999, 2007, 2009
Spoon 2010
slip
I must have been tired i understand it now
Be interesting to see how it would work with a locker installed.
A disengagable cable clutch would be better; than when you got slip you could disengage it and get back your traction
Be interesting to see how it would work with a locker installed.
A disengagable cable clutch would be better; than when you got slip you could disengage it and get back your traction
Kind Regards,
Brad
Brad
fuse
With the slip clutch type hub you wouldn't break anything you would just lose drive, Back up and try another line. It would have to be set pretty tight so as not to be a pain in the ass. It would be more for shock load with diff lock engaged and not set so loose that it would slip cornering on hard surfaces etc.AJFeroza wrote:I've heard different opinions of the pros and cons of these, but I'd imagine replacing one on the track would be a sh!tload quicker and cleaner than replacing a busted CV?
Remember some days your the pigeon and other days your the statue
hub
DUH isn't that what I just said.Brett S wrote:but once it does its first click would it not then get momentum and then keep clicking/slipping? and never reengage untill alot lower torque
Remember some days your the pigeon and other days your the statue
sounds great but in the real world when the wheels can't move and the axels are still turing something is going to give, is just happens to most often be the CV.hypozook wrote:wat about Chromo axles and cv;s, no need for clutch hubs...
so in your set up i can see many destroyed diffs which cost a lot more than a cv, or a fuseable hub
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the problem is, cv's arent as strong turned as going straight ahead. so to have the hub set to disengage before a cv broke while bound up and at hard lock, would mean the setting would be pretty low, therefore some straight ahead sections, which wouldn't break anything, would see you floundering as the hub lost drive.
set it so it'll only slip before a cv breaks while going straight ahead, you'll still bust cv's when the wheel is turned
set it so it'll only slip before a cv breaks while going straight ahead, you'll still bust cv's when the wheel is turned
Spit my last breath
drive flanges, softer than a freewheeling hub and dont damage the chromos wen the let go like a hub canYankeeDave wrote:sounds great but in the real world when the wheels can't move and the axels are still turing something is going to give, is just happens to most often be the CV.hypozook wrote:wat about Chromo axles and cv;s, no need for clutch hubs...
so in your set up i can see many destroyed diffs which cost a lot more than a cv, or a fuseable hub
Thanks to:
Polyperformance
Yuri 4x4
Longfield
CXorrect. GKN made these for Rovers. Never really worked the way they were needed. Did save a few axles but trade off is as above.Brett S wrote:but once it does its first click would it not then get momentum and then keep clicking/slipping? and never reengage untill alot lower torque
Never broke away at the same torque either.
Bazzle
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