Difference between SE & HSE Range Rover P38A & relia

[XR6T]

Hello,

As my name would suggest, I've not been a part of the 4WDing world for a number of years, since I sold my Discovery 6 years ago in fact.

Currently have the Turbo on the market (although not expecting it to run out the door at the moment unfortunately!) and am looking to replace with a fourby again. The P38A Rangie, as I think I've stated here before, would have to be one of the bargains in the motoring world at the moment, my major concern being fuel consumption, but there are a few out there with LPG fitted. Does anyone have experience with these cars on LPG? Generally would a conversion to dual fuel or straight gas be the most common conversion?

How are these vehicles standing the test of time? There is a massive bundle of English wiring running around in these cars and it does cause a slight concern given I'm not particularly capable of fixing anything myself ( I could manage a basic service on the Discovery, that's it!). I've noticed that a 2000 HSE can be had for around $30K, and earlier SE models into the teens. Other than the leather trim, sun roof (which I am guessing is standard on the HSE?) and engine size, what are the differences between the two?

Where is a good Rover mechanic in Melbourne that would look at pre-sale inspections? Is there anyone on this site that does this sort of thing (whether for money or beer!)?

I still have to sell my car, but once I'm through that I've already been approved by my bank to spend slightly above the $30K mark. For that price I could have an Ex-Parks diesel Hilux crew cab, or a 5-6 year old Rangie. I know what I'd prefer, as long as the general experience with the type is positive. I know my old Disco went like a dream, never a single fault with it. After other people's experience.

Thanks,

XR6T

[Hardy]

Regarding model variances, check this out:

http://www.rangerovers.net/modelspecs/


Regarding electrical reliabilty in general, the 98's were better than the 95,96 & 97's but the 99's on were much better again, due to input from Bosch / BMW. You still get the odd stupid problem though.

Aftermarket diagnostic systems like Rovacom etc can make most problems disappear. Considering the drop in the P38a pricing, the savings would be well spent on this type of workshop tool.

I was lucky when I bought my 99 XA series (in Melb, shipped to Bris)
My uncle had one too, was able to test drive first but he also knew the dealer - was able to look at the cars service history - all good.

The only major fault I've had (that cost money) was the ZF gearbox spitting the dummy at 120,000 km. A bit unusual and not really a design fault of the p38a.

Good luck!

Hardy

(PS - can you keep the turbo off the XR6? Would go well on the Rangie)

[muddydigger]

The p38 is like any land rover product, if its not looked ofter it will come back to bite you and hard. The poms have never really been any good as far as electrical stuff go so thats there weekest point. You can expect that any electrical work to cost you and anything to do with the dash is really expensive. The P38 are prone to water sepage through the liners particually on anything bigger than 4.0 litre, the bigger it is the more prone it is. Its not something easily tested for and isnt restricted to high klms cars, car as low as 12000 klms have suffered it and cars that are well maintained have suffered it. Its to do with the engine not changing down on hard pulls on hill ect, where as the 4.0 will change down gears the 4.6 will you grunt to go up and thats what causes it. The only remedy is to rechip the engine so it changes quicker. Graham Cooper i Sydney supply the chip. That said, buy one with good history and maintained. MY advise steer awy from car yards here most of em dont know Rangies and will sell you a heap if they can. Go to Land Rover dealer or private sale where you can get a fair idea from the actual owner. P38s represent good value as a capable 4x4 and as most of em have never been of bitumen thats a bonus. Take some one who knows Rangies well with you to look im sure some one on here will go with you.

[Philip A]

One difference with base UK spec SE vs HSE is that the SE has normal air and the HSE climate control. Whether the OZ spec ones have this I do not know.
BUT the climate control is a major cause of angst and expensive to fix, so maybe this is pro SE.
Also without climate control you can fix the O rings on the heater core without pulling the dash, according to the RangeRovers.net site.

Regards Philip A

[XR6T]

Thanks for the replies! It's very frustrating being in a position where I've seen examples out there that appear to be great value, but just can't do anything while I still have my current car.

I also agree I have found climate control very annoying and nto as clever as it thinks it is on the two cars I have had it in.

XR6T

[RangingRover]

as far as I know, all australian delivered P38s have climate control... sorry fellas!

[justinC]

as far as I know, all australian delivered P38s have climate control... sorry fellas!

X2 I have 2 customers with oz delivered SE's, and both have climate AND cloth trim!!

some Climate faults are not a prob, the test book icon comes up, but the fault may be insignificant, IE faulty blend motor or fan motor, yet it is still working!! Even their diagnostics are questionable.

JC

[BabyGodzillaGTi-R]

4.6 HSE means HIGHLY SUCKY ELECTRONICS 4.6 times....

Tell me about the aircon.
The silly blend motors, recirculating motors, the HVEAC, the blowers, the o rings make u go bonkers.
All of that have failed on us.

When everything is right, the car is a dream, when something goes wrong it really bites u back hard.

As for the o ring problem, i dunno if anyone did this since in Malaysia u dont need a heater, plus i didnt want to remove the dashboard, i just blocked off the 2 pipes that goes to the heater matrix. Ever since the car stopped leaking.