hey has this make been overlooked or what?!
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Kia
Moderator: Tiny
Kia's are gonna suffer the same fate as ferozas I think, i.e they have potential if only someone would make accessories for 'em 
Is there a locker of transfer ratio reductions around for kia's now, if so they're miles ahead of the old daihatsu's. You can't buy squat for 'em unless you fill them with hilux stuff which is why I'm sellin mine
IMO a kia (like anything (except a lada)) can be cool if you spend a few $$$ in the right place
Is there a locker of transfer ratio reductions around for kia's now, if so they're miles ahead of the old daihatsu's. You can't buy squat for 'em unless you fill them with hilux stuff which is why I'm sellin mine
IMO a kia (like anything (except a lada)) can be cool if you spend a few $$$ in the right place
hey has this make been overlooked or what?!
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Thanks MQ080, I totally agree with you!
I have one, and even in standard form they are a tough little rig. I have new coils and tyres going on in the next two weeks giving a 2.5" spring lift and 31 or 32" MT or AT tyres (haven't decided which yet) giving 12" under the front and 10.5" under the rear. Front wheel travel 10" (full squash to full droop), rear 15-16" (planned, limited by rear shocker length). With a rear shocker relocation it should have about 20" travel. To come... 1.5" bodylift and rear shocker relocation. All these measurements seem small but the vehicle is not that large anyway (smaller than a CRV) so the effects of scale come into play. Out of the box they have a 35.5:1 low/low ratio and rear LSD.
Known weakspots are the front vacuum operated hubs (typical of all vacuum setups, fixed with Warn manuals) and some dodgy electrical connectors on the MAFS/TPS (5 mins with a soldering iron). Engine electrcals are well covered, basically waterproof to 700 mm depth.
I have just had it in the sand at Bribie Island a couple of weeks ago with a guy that has a 1.6" lift and 30" tyres but with a powerchip/2'5" exhaust fitted, he absolutely left me for dead despite being loaded with wife, 3 kids and camping gear and me being empty.
Now if we could just get the aftermaket industry interested........(Anyone listening??????)
Saw a Kia Sportage a while back on one of the US sites with 33"S it was pretty impressive.....
The guy with the Rocsta I go out with has shown up my Vitara on occasion earlier on (although he now has to admit total defeat every time).
The potential is there but for him the budget isn't.... he has 3 kids.
He hasn't had any major problems to speak of, except he has a high roof hardtop and the C of G is really really bad on these.
He's running 31" centipedes now on 35mm body lift and he's a short bloke so it's always funny watching him get in the cabin - even with the sidestep it can be a problem....
Still he's a really good bloke and a it's a tough little unit - with Jeep styling on the cheap - but without the hairdresser connotations
The guy with the Rocsta I go out with has shown up my Vitara on occasion earlier on (although he now has to admit total defeat every time).
The potential is there but for him the budget isn't.... he has 3 kids.
He hasn't had any major problems to speak of, except he has a high roof hardtop and the C of G is really really bad on these.
He's running 31" centipedes now on 35mm body lift and he's a short bloke so it's always funny watching him get in the cabin - even with the sidestep it can be a problem....
Still he's a really good bloke and a it's a tough little unit - with Jeep styling on the cheap - but without the hairdresser connotations
Posts: 3523
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Location: Somewhere they can't reach me, shoot me or electrocute me...
GaryInOz wrote:hey has this make been overlooked or what?!
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Thanks MQ080, I totally agree with you!
I have one, and even in standard form they are a tough little rig. I have new coils and tyres going on in the next two weeks giving a 2.5" spring lift and 31 or 32" MT or AT tyres (haven't decided which yet) giving 12" under the front and 10.5" under the rear. Front wheel travel 10" (full squash to full droop), rear 15-16" (planned, limited by rear shocker length). With a rear shocker relocation it should have about 20" travel. To come... 1.5" bodylift and rear shocker relocation. All these measurements seem small but the vehicle is not that large anyway (smaller than a CRV) so the effects of scale come into play. Out of the box they have a 35.5:1 low/low ratio and rear LSD.
Known weakspots are the front vacuum operated hubs (typical of all vacuum setups, fixed with Warn manuals) and some dodgy electrical connectors on the MAFS/TPS (5 mins with a soldering iron). Engine electrcals are well covered, basically waterproof to 700 mm depth.
I have just had it in the sand at Bribie Island a couple of weeks ago with a guy that has a 1.6" lift and 30" tyres but with a powerchip/2'5" exhaust fitted, he absolutely left me for dead despite being loaded with wife, 3 kids and camping gear and me being empty.
Now if we could just get the aftermaket industry interested........(Anyone listening??????)
Pics and details - suppliers etc - of mods in progress would be great.
Built, not bought.
Ironman Suspensions for the Sportage 2.5" spring lift (most other manufacturers only do a 1.6") You may have to wait if you want one as my rig is the test mule for the springs. ~$300
Try OzKia for more info on what (little) is around for the Sportage. Also another forum in the US 4x4Wire has some pics scattered through it, along with a couple of Yahoo groups Extreme4x4sportages and Kiasportagesoftheworld
Powerchip for (quite) a bit more urge. ~$700
15 x 7 rims with new tyres ~$1400 (dont like the factory alloys, only 15 x 6, and you can't straighten them in the bush..)
New 2'5" exhaust ~$400-1000
K&N filter ~$100
Presently I am totally stock. Will keep you informed.........
Try OzKia for more info on what (little) is around for the Sportage. Also another forum in the US 4x4Wire has some pics scattered through it, along with a couple of Yahoo groups Extreme4x4sportages and Kiasportagesoftheworld
Powerchip for (quite) a bit more urge. ~$700
15 x 7 rims with new tyres ~$1400 (dont like the factory alloys, only 15 x 6, and you can't straighten them in the bush..)
New 2'5" exhaust ~$400-1000
K&N filter ~$100
Presently I am totally stock. Will keep you informed.........
The OzKia site was quite good .. though the guy does loose a little credability for the blue neon underbody lighting .. 
If you search about I am sure that the yanks set these things up for the equiv of our class 7 trucks to be flogged in some of the Baja races
If you search about I am sure that the yanks set these things up for the equiv of our class 7 trucks to be flogged in some of the Baja races
" If governments are involved in the covering up the knowledge of aliens, Then they are doing a much better job of it than they do of everything else "
Yeah, Phil used to work for Brisbane Car Sound (Strathfield Car Radio elsewhere) and his rig was a show vehicle, so it had to have all the BLING stuff... Apparently having the LCD screen attatched to a PS2 is a lifesaver with 3 kids under 10 in the back seat on long trips.
Interesting comments about my rig and his rig in side-by-side acceleration in the visitors pics section. one word....POWERCHIP!
Interesting comments about my rig and his rig in side-by-side acceleration in the visitors pics section. one word....POWERCHIP!
Has been looked at overseas, difficult to do unless you go for a SAS up front due to very tight clearance between the sump/front driveshaft/front diff/chassis rail on the existing IFS setup for the exhaust, and limited distance between the firewall and the front of the vehicle panelwork (about 25"), a V6 (Holden 3.8??) may be the best you could fit. More realistic and do-able is the 2.5 litre WL-T Turbodiesel from a Mazda Bravo/Ford Courier, as the existing Kia engine is a Mazda-sourced unit (has the same "black box" volume and mounts etc.).
GaryInOz wrote:Has been looked at overseas, difficult to do unless you go for a SAS up front due to very tight clearance between the sump/front driveshaft/front diff/chassis rail on the existing IFS setup for the exhaust, and limited distance between the firewall and the front of the vehicle panelwork (about 25"), a V6 (Holden 3.8??) may be the best you could fit. More realistic and do-able is the 2.5 litre WL-T Turbodiesel from a Mazda Bravo/Ford Courier, as the existing Kia engine is a Mazda-sourced unit (has the same "black box" volume and mounts etc.).
I've been pushin my mate to put a Turbo 2.2 from a Telstar/626 in his.... beat the 1.8 single cammer for sure.
Other Mazda sourced engines are plentiful - there's a few good Mazda V6's from things like 626's and 929's, of course the Bravo 2600 engine.....
Oh and don't forget the twin turbo rotary either if you are after real straightline performance
Powerchip - bahahhahahahah
I've been pushin my mate to put a Turbo 2.2 from a Telstar/626 in his....
Thought about it but I would eventually like the extra torque of a turbodiesel. WL-T 2.5 litre 280 Nm at 2000 rpm (up 50% on what I've got now!)
there's a few good Mazda V6's from things like 626's and 929's, of course the Bravo 2600 engine.....
Same problem with any V6 exhaust, unless you go straight axle up front. Bravo 2600 engine is actually a licenced Mitsubishi unit (Astron) that used to power Sigmas and Magnas....ummm, no thanks. Too long anyway.
Oh and don't forget the twin turbo rotary either if you are after real straightline performance
Me no go BLING BLING!
WHY???? Absolutely useless in the lower rev ranges. The new Renesis rotary only puts out about 220 Nm at something like 6000+ revs, at the moment I've got 175 at about 4500 (195 Nm with the "standard" version of the Powerchip). The ultimate use of the vehicle will be as a 4WD touring vehicle around and through OZ. I'm after form and function over flash.
GaryInOz wrote:I've been pushin my mate to put a Turbo 2.2 from a Telstar/626 in his....
Thought about it but I would eventually like the extra torque of a turbodiesel. WL-T 2.5 litre 280 Nm at 2000 rpm (up 50% on what I've got now!).
The 2.2 would be a good swap for his 1.8 carby for sure, but dunno how much power it'd put out compared to the sportage 2.0 anyway. Of course, if the turbo manifold fits that's a whole new ballgame
They're really really cheap normally too......
Swapping to a diesel is a lotta work for something like this, but if you're gonna do it I wonder if any of the T Series engines would fit.......
Oh and don't forget the twin turbo rotary either if you are after real straightline performance
Me no go BLING BLING!
WHY???? Absolutely useless in the lower rev ranges. The new Renesis rotary only puts out about 220 Nm at something like 6000+ revs, at the moment I've got 175 at about 4500 (195 Nm with the "standard" version of the Powerchip). The ultimate use of the vehicle will be as a 4WD touring vehicle around and through OZ. I'm after form and function over flash.[/quote]
The twin turbo was only partially kidding- remember they're a staged system, so bottom end isnt that bad at all once you're up a bit off idle. Near idle they are crap though :(
Of course, if you're after the true BLING BLING! For the directionally challenged cap wearers there's always the engines from the Laser TX3 Turbo....
Anyone know much about the 3.0 Tribute V6 engines?
Anyone know much about the 3.0 Tribute V6 engines?
Yeah, they dont like sipping water from behind the bumper of the Tribute when they go through puddles (and I DO mean "puddles", 3-6" deep) 3000 rpm to hydraulicked in 10 metres.....$about $7K to repair.
Too much stuff haning over the flywheel end of the engine to be of any use without a LOT of work in any RWD application. Could be interesting to try in a Zook though assuming you dont have the same sort of driver side "real estate" problems with front d/shaft/sump chassis/diff to route the drivers side exhaust around, and a bit of room to the firewall from the flywheel bellhousing.
The Tribute 3.0l V6 is actually a Ford engine from the Duratec family. Very good engines (for road cars anyway!)
I've got the 2.5l version in my V6 Mondeo. They have the water pump driven off the end of one of the cams hanging over the flywheel. You'd have to run an electric water pump or cut a hole in your firewall for it to poke through in a RWD set up!
The 2.5l version comes out with 150kW overseas; they are a very smooth engine that loves to rev (6750RPM cutout- try doing that with a Holden V6)
I've got the 2.5l version in my V6 Mondeo. They have the water pump driven off the end of one of the cams hanging over the flywheel. You'd have to run an electric water pump or cut a hole in your firewall for it to poke through in a RWD set up!
The 2.5l version comes out with 150kW overseas; they are a very smooth engine that loves to rev (6750RPM cutout- try doing that with a Holden V6)David
GaryInOz wrote:Anyone know much about the 3.0 Tribute V6 engines?
Yeah, they dont like sipping water from behind the bumper of the Tribute when they go through puddles (and I DO mean "puddles", 3-6" deep) 3000 rpm to hydraulicked in 10 metres.....$about $7K to repair.
Too much stuff haning over the flywheel end of the engine to be of any use without a LOT of work in any RWD application. Could be interesting to try in a Zook though assuming you dont have the same sort of driver side "real estate" problems with front d/shaft/sump chassis/diff to route the drivers side exhaust around, and a bit of room to the firewall from the flywheel bellhousing.
Sounds almost like the Vitara except it was 3' not 3" when the AIR intake turned into a FIRE HOSE.
If you know that there's a design limitation you'd throw the snorkel on straight away. Of course, nobody tells you that when you buy one.....
Oh yeah, if anyones interested in finding a 3.0l V6 Duratec engine (like in the Mazda Tribute) scour the wreckers for a Ford Taurus. Remember those hideous Yank cars Ford Aust thought the Australian public would buy? Well they've got the same engine!
Mazda MPV's have used both the 2.5 and 3.0l versions over the years too.
Mazda MPV's have used both the 2.5 and 3.0l versions over the years too.
David
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