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engine swaps help meee!!!!!
Moderator: Tiny
engine swaps help meee!!!!!
i'm starting to seriously think of doing a engine swap in my 1990 f300 what sized engine does everyone think i should put in and what type requires the least work. i want something around 2L or bigger.
any help would be much appreiated.
any help would be much appreiated.
dont follow its going to hurt
Why over 2L?... you can get good power from smaller engines
Toyota 4AGZE has been talked about quite a lot. (1.6L Supercharged)
SR20DE(T) would be awesome.. and lots of mods for them. (2.0L n/a and turbo)
The 3.8L V6 Commodore swap has been done by a member on here. Buckets of torque also
Just try a search
Toyota 4AGZE has been talked about quite a lot. (1.6L Supercharged)
SR20DE(T) would be awesome.. and lots of mods for them. (2.0L n/a and turbo)
The 3.8L V6 Commodore swap has been done by a member on here. Buckets of torque also
Just try a search
[quote="RockyF70 - Coming out of the closet"]i'd be rushing out and buying an IFS rocky[/quote]
I am going to suggest a Toyota 3RZ-FE. 2.7L 4cyl found in 98 onward Hiluxs, fit an earlier model Hilux Gearbox and Transfer which has the front driveshaft output on the right hand side behind it.
Should go alright in something the weight of a Feroza.
Should go alright in something the weight of a Feroza.
If God did not intend for us to eat animals, then why did he make them out of meat?
This would be a great idea, as it opens up the gearbox/transfer options as said.
You would then fit Lux axles also, you wouldn't go to all the trouble to swap a motor and keep the crappy Feroza stock suspension
So basically, a Hilux with a Feroza shell on top
You would then fit Lux axles also, you wouldn't go to all the trouble to swap a motor and keep the crappy Feroza stock suspension
So basically, a Hilux with a Feroza shell on top
[quote="RockyF70 - Coming out of the closet"]i'd be rushing out and buying an IFS rocky[/quote]
personally i would say go the suspension way before the motor unless your is stuffed.
throw hilux diffs under it and then play with the motor. after driving a roza buggy with 3 link front and standard 1.6 and some exhaust work the travel made up for the lack of power.
with the ifs you need to give it numbers it dosent have to get it any where, go 3 link and you won't belive the differance.
Or just throw gq's under it with a v6 and extend the wheel base and you'll be happy but you might need to rob a bank.
throw hilux diffs under it and then play with the motor. after driving a roza buggy with 3 link front and standard 1.6 and some exhaust work the travel made up for the lack of power.
with the ifs you need to give it numbers it dosent have to get it any where, go 3 link and you won't belive the differance.
Or just throw gq's under it with a v6 and extend the wheel base and you'll be happy but you might need to rob a bank.
The 3 link set uses coil springs and shocks for the suspension and is basicaly 3 point that link the chassis to the diff.
its so good because it gives the diff a lot more flex than IFS.
My mechanic is doing a 3link front and 4 link rear for $1500- if i supply the diffs and springs, so its not that expensive considering the average engine swap would cost a $1000- as a starting point.
it all depends on what you want out of the vechile.
Nick
its so good because it gives the diff a lot more flex than IFS.
My mechanic is doing a 3link front and 4 link rear for $1500- if i supply the diffs and springs, so its not that expensive considering the average engine swap would cost a $1000- as a starting point.
it all depends on what you want out of the vechile.
Nick
To keep it simple it seems a complete swap including gearbox and transfer might be easist - if you must change.
I am sticking with the HD engine ( Blown ) but changing the box and transfer case so I can get an auto and crawler gears. Rear diff is Toyota Hilux (locker) or it will be when the locker actually arrives ( TJM Prolock ).
But if you must change then...
A V6 Vitara setup wood be cool, but of course Hilux etc etc are available.
Keeping the whole engine/driveline seems to make things much easier.
If you want to leave the IFS for whatever reason ( and I am going to ) then an option is to fit LONGER front control arms which gives more travel and depending on the angles gives more ride height. Widetrack CV's and shafts cover the drive but the arms would have to be fabricated or the originals extended. More details to do but not serious mods.
Not a quick solution but doesn't cost millions and leaves the basic mechanicals in place. Will do this in the "fullness of time" but havn't actually done it yet so its just an idea for now.
Its "doable" if you can fabricate stuf.
I am sticking with the HD engine ( Blown ) but changing the box and transfer case so I can get an auto and crawler gears. Rear diff is Toyota Hilux (locker) or it will be when the locker actually arrives ( TJM Prolock ).
But if you must change then...
A V6 Vitara setup wood be cool, but of course Hilux etc etc are available.
Keeping the whole engine/driveline seems to make things much easier.
If you want to leave the IFS for whatever reason ( and I am going to ) then an option is to fit LONGER front control arms which gives more travel and depending on the angles gives more ride height. Widetrack CV's and shafts cover the drive but the arms would have to be fabricated or the originals extended. More details to do but not serious mods.
Not a quick solution but doesn't cost millions and leaves the basic mechanicals in place. Will do this in the "fullness of time" but havn't actually done it yet so its just an idea for now.
Its "doable" if you can fabricate stuf.
VN - onwardsbrennan wrote:what model commodore engine fits? and do you need to change gear box, drivetrains, diffs etc....??
thanks
Marks Adapter Kit to suit Hilux Gearbox
continue with hilux running gear + diffs.
Talk to an Engineer to see if they will allow it
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Dude, you need to explain link a bit better. A 3 link would be radius arm setup, as in 2 radius arms and a panhard rod. What you are describing is a 3 link plus panhard rod, as in one upper, two lower and a panhard that connect the housing to the vehicle. Radius arms are crap so try to avoid them . As for coils and shocks, it can use whatever springing method it wants, airbags, coils, air shocks, coil overs, hydraulics, even dual shackle leaves of 1/4 eliptical leaves.CWBYUP wrote:The 3 link set uses coil springs and shocks for the suspension and is basicaly 3 point that link the chassis to the diff.
its so good because it gives the diff a lot more flex than IFS.
My mechanic is doing a 3link front and 4 link rear for $1500- if i supply the diffs and springs, so its not that expensive considering the average engine swap would cost a $1000- as a starting point.
it all depends on what you want out of the vechile.
Nick
Basically the 3/4/2/1/whatever link indicates how many points of contact the housing has to the chassis. Each can be made to work with a variety of spring setups. Each system has they pro's and con's. Leaves are still good too, so dont discount them totally.
Layto....
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
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