Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Heater core change, D1.
Moderator: Micka
Heater core change, D1.
Had a blown headgasket overpressurise my cooling system. Then the radiator cap did not do it's job to release it. So now my heater core has popped.
I have a nice new copper one to put in, but am unsure as to how to get the old one out and the new one in WITHOUT removing the entire dash.
Anyone done this job before? Just wondering what sort of a bitch it is..........
I have a nice new copper one to put in, but am unsure as to how to get the old one out and the new one in WITHOUT removing the entire dash.
Anyone done this job before? Just wondering what sort of a bitch it is..........
As far as I know, there are 2 procedures for changing a heater core without removing the dash.
1. Remove engine. Then cut large hole in firewall behind heater core.
OR
2. Cut hole in front of dash.
Seriously though, I'm 95% sure that its a physical impossibility to get the heater core out without unbolting the dash and hanging it forwards, unless you cut a few access holes etc, but even then it would be a struggle if it was possible at all.
1. Remove engine. Then cut large hole in firewall behind heater core.
OR
2. Cut hole in front of dash.
Seriously though, I'm 95% sure that its a physical impossibility to get the heater core out without unbolting the dash and hanging it forwards, unless you cut a few access holes etc, but even then it would be a struggle if it was possible at all.
84 Rangie, 3 inch spring lift, 2 inch body, Megasquirted 4.6, R380, rear Maxi, 34x11.5 JT2s. Simex FM installed.
If the D1 you are looking at is an early one, ie with the old Rangie type dash (pre 94?), then it should be possible to remove the heater box without removing the dash top, assuming it is the same sub structure as a Rangie, which I think it does.
You have to pull all the stuff in the centre of the dash out, and drop the aircon vents. The airbox can then be worked out along the centre hump, after removing the bolts that hold the air box. You have to force up the dash pad.
I have only done a 77 Range rover but the principle should be the same.
Regards Philip A
You have to pull all the stuff in the centre of the dash out, and drop the aircon vents. The airbox can then be worked out along the centre hump, after removing the bolts that hold the air box. You have to force up the dash pad.
I have only done a 77 Range rover but the principle should be the same.
Regards Philip A
If it is a D1 after 94, with the updated dash etc, then all you have to do is slide heater core out of RH side of heater box, first disconnecting the ally pipes and o ring clamps etc. It usually takes about 4 to 5 hours.
JC
JC
'92 Rangie Sherwood/turbo intercooled isuzu4BD1 /ACE/ full leather/2.5" exh/2.5" body lift/DeCarbon shocks/LR tanks/LT95 back in and OK now, Sals conversion soon...
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 19 guests