When you're not looking...

[Bowhunter]

I was under the Roza today mucking with the wiring for the interior light switch ('cause I buggered it when playing around with it earlier in the arvo ) and came across these...











I was alerted to investigate when I noticed the sheared off part of the first bolt lodged inbetween a chassi cross member and the fuel lines

Upon further inspection I discovered that TWO of the bolts of my body lift blocks had sheared off!!! It is the middle two on the driver's side.

I quickly had a look at the others and they appear fine...but it's a worry to think how long I've been driving around with them like that and what would have happened in the long run had I not noticed!

I'm off tomorrow to be buying some replacements!

[HotFourOk]

If you didn't use grade 8 bolts, you should kick yourself!

ALWAYS use high tensile bolts, especially for body lift blocks For that exact reason

Also, is that all the thread that the nut was holding onto? Or has the bolt shaft snapped inside the nut?

[Bowhunter]

I didn't do the lift mate, so can't be certain what grade bolts were used

The pics you see of the nut and bolt together (on carpet) - are the nut and bolt from one block. So the thread it has hanging out of it I guess would be about an inch long. Plenty I would think? Yes the bolt shaft snapped inside the nut.

The pics of the bolt on tiles is all I found of that one, no nut end at all, just the bolt end as there's nothing underneath that block to catch the nut end when it sheared.

I'll def be keeping a close eye on the rest of them and replacing these ones with grade 8's...

[Bowhunter]

Here's what I got from Dave's site (the previous owner who did the lift)...

-10 body blocks, 50mm - 60mm, Engineer grade nylon.
-6 high tensile 10mm, 140 mm long bolts with nuts and washers.
-4 high tensile 10mm, 130mm long, fine metric thread, 1.25mm thread pitch bolts with washers
-1 10mm, 1.25mm thread pitch, joiner nut (or the biggest nut you can get).
-Aluminium flat bar or some thing else to make small brackets out of.

I got all of the nuts and bolts from Lee Brothers in North Parramatta.

http://www.geocities.com/davefogwill/Fe ... ylift.html

[HotFourOk]

What markings on the head do the bolts have?

I would replace the whole lot when you get a chance mate... just to be safe

[Bowhunter]

The have "JD" "M" and "8.8"

[Clint]

JD would be brandname i think
M for metric
8.8 is high tensile.

Should be ok bro, maybe u drive too hard

Replace em all save worring about the rest of em

[murcod]

I'd be asking why a high tensile bolt (or TWO!?) broke in the first place!

Perhaps the diameter is no longer large enough given the extra length required for the lift? Simply putting in new grade 8.8 will not be a safe long term fix IMHO.

(Shows why you need to be careful with DIY mods. Imagine if you had a head on (or similar) and two bolts were already snapped.....)

[Bowhunter]

It's not me driving too hard bro, 'tis Amy, I'm teaching her how to drive a manual (insert a minute silence in sympathy of my poor clutch )...

I'll see how big of a diameter bolt I can get in there and go for that aye?

Murc, I'd rather avoid the head on altogether but I get your point...

I guess the higher torsional forces placed on the bolts due to the higher body position would require bigger bolts...

I let ya's know how I go

Thanks for the input.

[kjbolt]

Maby they were over tightened to start with. I know by going a stronger bolt again like a 10.9 grade may not be a fix -- too brittle. Like the other guy said, maby next size up will fix it.

[MightyMouse]

Try socket head cap screws ( Unbrako ) - the quality is remarkable for the low price. IMO they are a good compromise between outright strength and toughness.