How do I beef up my diff?

[Phil M]

Gday all.

I have a live axle 100 (105) series and smashed the ring and pinion on the weekend. I've tracked down another diff and would like to know what I can do to this diff before I put it in to stop this happening again.

I've heard that an air locker would beef things up and reduce loading the diff as much. (can't afford this at the moment)

I've also heard that getting a solid pinion spacer machined up would also help. My mechanic didn't seem to think this is needed.

Would the reduction of work that the front diff does with a part time kit make the diff stronger for longer?
Does anyone know (FROM EXPERIENCE) what problems these kits give to the ABS?( I've searched heaps of sites but no one has mentioned any actual bad affects on braking)

I can't afford to spend heaps on grafting different centers in and also would like to keep as original as possible as I would like to know I can get parts easily if travelling.

Cheers Phil.

[ausyota]

You have to be gentle when using reverse in anger

The only way to get a crownwheel less likely to grenade is get it heat/cryo treated. This makes it slightly softer but less likely to chip.
You would need to go part time 4wd though or it would probably wear too much though.

[Phil M]

I know these have a bad rep for reversing up hills and snatching someone out backwards, but I did this going up a steep rockclimb.

Got some air under the front after trying to bump it over a rock that I was stuck on. I think the main reason it broke was having the wheels spinning then getting traction suddenly. I have seen much worse abuse done to 80s and 100s without breakage to the center. I would have thought the CV would have gone first.

Cheers Phil.

[+dj_hansen+]

Get in touch with 80UTE, he will do a GQ/GU centre swap... then you will have to start worrying about CV's exploding first...

[Phil M]

Thanks for that.

PM sent.

Phil.

[DNA Off Road]

I know you said you cannot afford to spend much however, keep in mind the quality and strength of the fix is proportional to the $ spent.

Cheers

[dbongard]

The ARB will help a bit...but your R&P still wasn't made to back that much rig up a hill.
The high pinion tooth geometry is all wrong for it.

The Nissan swap seems to be the fix so far, as long as you don't push the driveline angle too far.

-daniel
AIR LOCKER

[Hardcorr]

I done the same thing at Cruiser Park one year with one of my 80's. Climibing a hill, just needed a bit more momentum and the front lifted off the ground and bang. Crown wheel shredded.
I was suprised that the CV's didn't go instead. But I have since fitted an air locker to the front, and next time the centre comes out, I'm redrilling the studs larger.
Haven't had any trouble since, and it's been treated even worse now.

Cheers
Corry

[+dj_hansen+]

But I have since fitted an air locker to the front, and next time the centre comes out, I'm redrilling the studs larger.
Haven't had any trouble since, and it's been treated even worse now.

Cheers
Corry

What studs are you going to change?

[Guy]

I know a friend of mine swapped from bolts to ARP studs in the front crown-wheel of his 75 ... something about the additional stretch in the factory units .. he gave it heaps with swapped in 4 valve 4.5 and turbo providing motivation and airlocker attached to 37 boggers providing traction ..

Breakage was not at the crownwheel after that .. just axles and CV's and the studs in the rear hubs until he swapped in the studs from the 100 I believe.
(I dunno much about 70's but I know he used to break CWP's a bit before the upgrades)

[Hardcorr]

But I have since fitted an air locker to the front, and next time the centre comes out, I'm redrilling the studs larger.
Haven't had any trouble since, and it's been treated even worse now.

Cheers
Corry

What studs are you going to change?

The dozen or so studs that bolt the complete pumpkin in. Drill them out and take them up a size.

Cheers
Corry