even though i am only running low boost at the moment i get useable boost starting from about 1800rpm, come 3000rpm i have my 3.5-4psi and it just pulls.hanging for eng bay pics.
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i'm useing my mr2's spare T25 from a ca18det nissan engine on mine. .49 a/r exhaust and .48 a/r compressor coupled with the stock 9.5:1 c/r give me bugger all lag. even though i am only running low boost at the moment i get useable boost starting from about 1800rpm, come 3000rpm i have my 3.5-4psi and it just pulls.
hanging for eng bay pics.
even though i am only running low boost at the moment i get useable boost starting from about 1800rpm, come 3000rpm i have my 3.5-4psi and it just pulls.hanging for eng bay pics.
pics, dribble, turbo conversion.... click [url=http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/657917/1]here.[/url]
Hi again
The turbo is a T25 with a gt25 exhaust wheel and shaft. The boost comes on about 1900rpm with good torque but has a rush at 4000 onwards. I've had to take boost out from 4000+ as to save the transfer case, drive shafts, diff and gearbox. Had to also choke down the intake with the standard cold air box. Still developing the system for efficienty will keep you informed. Oh! before 4000 rpm about 15 pound then Tapper this off to 12PSI. Have run 18 through it but the suspension unloads itself when you back off at speed so I thought because it's for my wife then No!
Here are the photos through photo bucket, I had to drop the resolution!
regards
Ashley Bolt
The turbo is a T25 with a gt25 exhaust wheel and shaft. The boost comes on about 1900rpm with good torque but has a rush at 4000 onwards. I've had to take boost out from 4000+ as to save the transfer case, drive shafts, diff and gearbox. Had to also choke down the intake with the standard cold air box. Still developing the system for efficienty will keep you informed. Oh! before 4000 rpm about 15 pound then Tapper this off to 12PSI. Have run 18 through it but the suspension unloads itself when you back off at speed so I thought because it's for my wife then No!
Here are the photos through photo bucket, I had to drop the resolution!
regards
Ashley Bolt
Nice setup.
Sorry to hijack the topic but i've always wanted to pick up mapping ecus as a future hobby interest.
But what is holding me back home in malaysia is that those who knows the trade are not willing to teach me or abit hush hush in allowing me to attend courses.
And of course the trail and error method. But i dont want to end up destroying a freshly rebuilt engine.
Any idea how to go about picking it up? Other than picking up bits a pieces in every car forums?
Current ride is a Pulsar GTi-R. But i heard to tune individual throttle turbo cars are quite trick especially for a technical blur like me.
I was thinking of getting something like a Haltech E8 as it's within my budget.
Another option would be a Power FC which apparently its easier to tune coz it comes with a base map and plug and play design.
But limited functions compared to the Haltech let alone the Motec m400.
What's your opinions?
Btw nice ride, makes my Rocky move slower than Tectonic plates.
Sorry to hijack the topic but i've always wanted to pick up mapping ecus as a future hobby interest.
But what is holding me back home in malaysia is that those who knows the trade are not willing to teach me or abit hush hush in allowing me to attend courses.
And of course the trail and error method. But i dont want to end up destroying a freshly rebuilt engine.
Any idea how to go about picking it up? Other than picking up bits a pieces in every car forums?
Current ride is a Pulsar GTi-R. But i heard to tune individual throttle turbo cars are quite trick especially for a technical blur like me.
I was thinking of getting something like a Haltech E8 as it's within my budget.
Another option would be a Power FC which apparently its easier to tune coz it comes with a base map and plug and play design.
But limited functions compared to the Haltech let alone the Motec m400.
What's your opinions?
Btw nice ride, makes my Rocky move slower than Tectonic plates.
My RIG sucks big time.
Over the years I have just about put every type of ecu in an assortment of different cars. One thing I relised a few years ago was that life was too short and I settled on something that had exceptional backup service and worked at every place in the vehicle mapping situation. The theory is the more technical the car, then the more technical the ecu should be, thats if you want it to react like a factory unit. Your Gtir is quad throttle body and has no MAP take off point this take all the fun out of it for alot of ecu's.
I can't tell you what to do, but if I owned a Gtir then I would only have a Motec in it but I'm a little biased.
Regards
Ashley Bolt
I can't tell you what to do, but if I owned a Gtir then I would only have a Motec in it but I'm a little biased.
Regards
Ashley Bolt
very neat, does make mine look rather ghetto. but then i love ghetto mods.
what are you useing to control the wastegate actuator to be able to open it at 4000rpm + so the turbo doesnt boost anymore? and to taper the boost from 15psi to 12psi? never heard of this being done before.
what are you useing to control the wastegate actuator to be able to open it at 4000rpm + so the turbo doesnt boost anymore? and to taper the boost from 15psi to 12psi? never heard of this being done before.
pics, dribble, turbo conversion.... click [url=http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/657917/1]here.[/url]
I stiil have to Zinc plate the Air box and send the intake away. Then remove certain sensors from the engine bay that I used only for datalogging, the engine bay will clean up ok! Be interesting to see whether my wife can kill the little thing! as I decompressed it by CC'ing the combustion chanbers and machining a 28 thou dish in the crown of the standard pistons. I think it's pritty safe though because of the EGT's, mixtures and ignition timing.
Regards
Ashley Bolt
Regards
Ashley Bolt
Well i'm given the impression that Motec is the leader when it comes to ECU. Not comparing to the fancy Marelli Magnetti used on F1 cars.asboltau wrote:Over the years I have just about put every type of ecu in an assortment of different cars. One thing I relised a few years ago was that life was too short and I settled on something that had exceptional backup service and worked at every place in the vehicle mapping situation. The theory is the more technical the car, then the more technical the ecu should be, thats if you want it to react like a factory unit. Your Gtir is quad throttle body and has no MAP take off point this take all the fun out of it for alot of ecu's.
I can't tell you what to do, but if I owned a Gtir then I would only have a Motec in it but I'm a little biased.
Regards
Ashley Bolt
My point is mapping ecu on a DIY basis hard to pick up? Is there any course u know that's available to the public.
I heard especially on individual thorttle setup u need something that has MAP compensation with TPS blending or something like that according to a friend and not many ecu offer that.
Another ecu that falls on my budget is the Haltech E8. Worked on that ecu b4?
My RIG sucks big time.
Theres often not a lot of techincal differences between the aftermarket ECU's - but a hell of a lot of difference in the quality of the programming software. In this, IMO Motec is way out front - if you cant see it / program it / log it with a Motec it probably can't be done.
I use others - but I have other equipment / experience - so for newcommers or people who dont like pain - spen the $$$, buy Motec.
I use others - but I have other equipment / experience - so for newcommers or people who dont like pain - spen the $$$, buy Motec.
Hi guys
Yes! I have worked on Haltech ECU's and they are a good unit, if that is your preference then I'm sure it will be right for you! MightyMouse is nearly 100% correct and also most of it comes down to resolution, processor speed and configurability. You need to select the right ecu for your application remembering this might not match your budget. I choose only to work with motec as it gives me the ability to get the results i'm looking for, alot of people have different expectations, you need to work out what yours is and match that to your car. Remembering the key issue is having pleasure driving your car and your only won't to spend your money once!
Not many ECU's do a load derivative by frequency, throttle position, map and engine rpm that could possibly run your engine without downfalls. If you choose Haltech then you need to ask them whether it accomidate your needs and expectations.
Tunning alot of the time comes down to getting the Lamdba's, EGT's and ignition positions correct for the engine dynamics and the ECU resolution parameters. Individualism does play a part as every tunner will set the above up differently. This probably doesn't answer alot of your questions but without analysing each individual situation i'm not sure how to answer the question better.
Oh! Humidity is very relavent to turbo charged cars. You can't compress water just say.
Regards
Ashley Bolt
Yes! I have worked on Haltech ECU's and they are a good unit, if that is your preference then I'm sure it will be right for you! MightyMouse is nearly 100% correct and also most of it comes down to resolution, processor speed and configurability. You need to select the right ecu for your application remembering this might not match your budget. I choose only to work with motec as it gives me the ability to get the results i'm looking for, alot of people have different expectations, you need to work out what yours is and match that to your car. Remembering the key issue is having pleasure driving your car and your only won't to spend your money once!
Not many ECU's do a load derivative by frequency, throttle position, map and engine rpm that could possibly run your engine without downfalls. If you choose Haltech then you need to ask them whether it accomidate your needs and expectations.
Tunning alot of the time comes down to getting the Lamdba's, EGT's and ignition positions correct for the engine dynamics and the ECU resolution parameters. Individualism does play a part as every tunner will set the above up differently. This probably doesn't answer alot of your questions but without analysing each individual situation i'm not sure how to answer the question better.
Oh! Humidity is very relavent to turbo charged cars. You can't compress water just say.
Regards
Ashley Bolt
Very intresting.
So u're trying to say that TPS and MAP and everything work together cohesively to get the ideal 'delievery'
Is there such thing as an auto tune feature where the ecu determines a rough basic map to help out a newbie to tune his car?
End of the day even with the best hardware in the world, it's the tuner that play a big role.
So i would like to start somewhere.
Coz if i grab an ecu its like throwing myself at the deep end when i cant swim.
I so far understand in theory how u map. I think megasquirt website was quite helpful...
Humidity. Now that's something new. what's the theory behind it? more humidity is better because of higher 02 content? so how do u tune that?
So u're trying to say that TPS and MAP and everything work together cohesively to get the ideal 'delievery'
Is there such thing as an auto tune feature where the ecu determines a rough basic map to help out a newbie to tune his car?
End of the day even with the best hardware in the world, it's the tuner that play a big role.
So i would like to start somewhere.
Coz if i grab an ecu its like throwing myself at the deep end when i cant swim.
I so far understand in theory how u map. I think megasquirt website was quite helpful...
Humidity. Now that's something new. what's the theory behind it? more humidity is better because of higher 02 content? so how do u tune that?
My RIG sucks big time.
Hi
Autronic make a ecu with a so called auto tune feature but it still takes a few pulls on the dyno to get it in the ball park. I know where your coming from, your trying to find out where to start. That's for you to choose. I have installed autronic as well and the designer (Richard orbit) is a very smart guy and his software has a few features I really like, but in saying that the first ECU I bought was a motec.
Humidity! Say your turbo makes 14.5 PSI or 1bar/ 100KPA of boost. Then the more moisture in the air the less percentage of oxygen in the compressed air. The less humidity the better!!
Regards
Ashley Bolt
Autronic make a ecu with a so called auto tune feature but it still takes a few pulls on the dyno to get it in the ball park. I know where your coming from, your trying to find out where to start. That's for you to choose. I have installed autronic as well and the designer (Richard orbit) is a very smart guy and his software has a few features I really like, but in saying that the first ECU I bought was a motec.
Humidity! Say your turbo makes 14.5 PSI or 1bar/ 100KPA of boost. Then the more moisture in the air the less percentage of oxygen in the compressed air. The less humidity the better!!
Regards
Ashley Bolt
Humidity is just a measure of water vapour in the air. As water cannot be compressed easily, higher humidity levels lead to less boost being created by the turbo due to a percentage of the air containing water.
You want to run below sea level, on a cold, non-humid night
You want to run below sea level, on a cold, non-humid night
[quote="RockyF70 - Coming out of the closet"]i'd be rushing out and buying an IFS rocky[/quote]
Oh cool, i learn something new today.
I'm not sure who does Autronic here other then those who bring them in themself and tune by themself.
They must have pretty good international support from their supplier if they are doing it all alone.
Back here as the spending power is not big most people go for Haltech followed by Microtech. UNless they have $ not many go for Motec. Then there is the odd PowerFC and the FC Vpro.
The impression i get is that our commercial tuners back here still need more experience even though they've been toying around for 8 years on the average.
Btw is there any interesting books that's worth picking up regarding tuning and setting up ecus? Havent notice any being published so far.
Sorry for deviating the thread when this is supposed to be a Daihatsu thread haha. Just that i'm in the process of acquiring a replacement turbo for my Nissan, I'm still so undecided. I'm thinking in this order to either get a:
Garrett GT2876 (i heard this is quite old)
GT2871R with the 53mm trim and a/r .86
GT3071R a/r 0.64
for my GTi-R.
As long it's plug and play with the stock manifold and not too laggy but with stronger midrange, top end.
And u know once i recover, its time for management... Sigh lusting for Motec M800.
As for my Rocky, i do it the easy way like most jokers do back here. Plonk in a 1JZ or a 7MGTE into the Rocky for competition hahaha.
I'm not sure who does Autronic here other then those who bring them in themself and tune by themself.
They must have pretty good international support from their supplier if they are doing it all alone.
Back here as the spending power is not big most people go for Haltech followed by Microtech. UNless they have $ not many go for Motec. Then there is the odd PowerFC and the FC Vpro.
The impression i get is that our commercial tuners back here still need more experience even though they've been toying around for 8 years on the average.
Btw is there any interesting books that's worth picking up regarding tuning and setting up ecus? Havent notice any being published so far.
Sorry for deviating the thread when this is supposed to be a Daihatsu thread haha. Just that i'm in the process of acquiring a replacement turbo for my Nissan, I'm still so undecided. I'm thinking in this order to either get a:
Garrett GT2876 (i heard this is quite old)
GT2871R with the 53mm trim and a/r .86
GT3071R a/r 0.64
for my GTi-R.
As long it's plug and play with the stock manifold and not too laggy but with stronger midrange, top end.
And u know once i recover, its time for management... Sigh lusting for Motec M800.
As for my Rocky, i do it the easy way like most jokers do back here. Plonk in a 1JZ or a 7MGTE into the Rocky for competition hahaha.
My RIG sucks big time.
On the "self tune" concept - be a little carefull. Whilst you won't do damage to an engine with a Lambda aim of 1, remember that engines also dont make make max power at lambda 1.
Engines all have different characteristics - even when they are theoretically identical. Lambda will get you near but not do the whole job
You also need a fast, wideband Lambda sensor otherwise by the time the ECU learns its too late....
Be prepared to do some dyno work - and learn a bit yourself. Know many
people that are unsatisfied because they thought it would all happen automatically, and didn't have the knowledge or $$ to get it right.
Engines all have different characteristics - even when they are theoretically identical. Lambda will get you near but not do the whole job
You also need a fast, wideband Lambda sensor otherwise by the time the ECU learns its too late....
Be prepared to do some dyno work - and learn a bit yourself. Know many
people that are unsatisfied because they thought it would all happen automatically, and didn't have the knowledge or $$ to get it right.
Oh yeah, regarding wideband what's available on the market are products from Innovate LM1. Some American wideband o2 sensor. Heard of them?
I heard that i need to get something with 5 wires with a heater for the best results.
Also i heard in theory that high load, low rpm u need more fuel but less ignition; and at low load and at high rpm u need less fuel but more ignition.
Does that hold water?
Well this sounds more interesting everyday.
I just want to be psychologically, and theoretically well prepared before i take the plunge into standalone management if i was to do this alone.
I heard that i need to get something with 5 wires with a heater for the best results.
Also i heard in theory that high load, low rpm u need more fuel but less ignition; and at low load and at high rpm u need less fuel but more ignition.
Does that hold water?
Well this sounds more interesting everyday.
I just want to be psychologically, and theoretically well prepared before i take the plunge into standalone management if i was to do this alone.
My RIG sucks big time.
How about ignition, what's the theory to that? Coz i heard it's ignition mapping that makes a whole lot of difference and also the most critical, coz if u get it wrong it really goes boom due to detonation.
I heard this is when a load dyno comes in handy so that u can increase timing gradually till hp is not increasing anymore.
Hmm since i've a spare turbo, hmm imagine turboing a Rocky 4Y.......
I heard this is when a load dyno comes in handy so that u can increase timing gradually till hp is not increasing anymore.
Hmm since i've a spare turbo, hmm imagine turboing a Rocky 4Y.......
My RIG sucks big time.
NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR YOU ENGINE DISSASTERS........
TUNING EFI SYSTEMS HAS A LEVEL OF RISK - PARTICULARLY IF YOU
DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING - OR DONT HAVE TEST EQUIPMENT>
VERY General advice here.... Running on the edge of detonation is best for power but its also dangerous. With boost the ignition gets retarded.
That's why a well equipped dyno session helps - detonation can be mixture and/or timing, and if you cant decide which - its chaos to get right.
As the off boost performance of the engine will be very similar to stock - start with the factory ignition curve and fuel, which allows you to drive the car. Slowly start giving it a little stick - watch the mixture and cotrol detonation. this allows you to progressively tune things.
DONT GO FULL BLAST FIRST TIME - work from what you know into the unknown slowly. Can't beat good test gear.....
TUNING EFI SYSTEMS HAS A LEVEL OF RISK - PARTICULARLY IF YOU
DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING - OR DONT HAVE TEST EQUIPMENT>
VERY General advice here.... Running on the edge of detonation is best for power but its also dangerous. With boost the ignition gets retarded.
That's why a well equipped dyno session helps - detonation can be mixture and/or timing, and if you cant decide which - its chaos to get right.
As the off boost performance of the engine will be very similar to stock - start with the factory ignition curve and fuel, which allows you to drive the car. Slowly start giving it a little stick - watch the mixture and cotrol detonation. this allows you to progressively tune things.
DONT GO FULL BLAST FIRST TIME - work from what you know into the unknown slowly. Can't beat good test gear.....
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