gday,the water pump on my 83 hilux has packed it in and i am wondering how hard they are to replace. it is a 2L engine but after having a look at the manual it says that part of the timing assembly has to be removed.does this mean that the timing has 2 be reset??
ive changed water pumps on fords and commodores but never on a hilux and never one that was connected to the timing belt
any help would be great
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Hilux Water Pump
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
Hi Macklux83.
Just thought to confirm, you have a 2L 2.4 diesel ??, or a 2 liter petrol.
I thought the 83 would be the L motor 2.2ltr diesel.
If its diesel then read below, of petrol, then someone else can chime in.
end edit.
Trains
short answer is no, you can remove the pump without touching the timing belt.
If you think you need to its no big deal to take the belt off, just read down further.
However you have to remove all the stuff from the front of the motor, alt belts, ac belt, ac compressor and mount so you can remove the timing cover.
Once pump is removed, give the gasket face, and area a very good clean, you dont want any scraped gasket or crap/ gunge to be left to wear out your timing belt. Flush out the block as best you can too.
A good dry off with air is good for removing stuff wedged in the corners of the pulleys and belt areas.
With the L ive been caught before with incorrect hight pumps.
They are indentical and bolt up, but one is longer in the shaft for the fan/pulley than the other.
So check the lenght of the shaft for the pulley as well as the rest of it with the one you remove.
With a 2L engine, your best bet is to remove the rad, (cant hurt to have it rodded at a rad place before summer whilst its out) and it gives you alot more room to move, and less likelyhood of damaging the rad.
Remove the bottom pulley 19mm socket, remove the timing cover and from there, you will see that you can remove the pump without taking off the timing belt.
If however you have done over 100,000k or are near it and have not done the belt, or your crank or cam seal is leaking, then put the engine on tdc, you will see the timing marks on the cam sprocket at 6 o clock, injector pump at 12, and crank at 12.
Then with liquid paper, or a permanent marker, mark the belt, and the pulleys at each point where the belt sits, so you have reference, as well as the already lined up timing marks.
So in essence you can put the belt back on in exactly the same place.
If you need to do the belt, then get a gates belt kit, it comes with tensioner, idler and seals. Most timing belts are not covered under warranty unless you replace these. and there cheaper than getting the parts seperately.
top cam seal is easily replaced, the cam pulley comes off quite easily, remove top cover, and your good to go, however the crank pulleys can be a right royal pain in the left nut as they sometimes stick to the crank, and dont want to come off.
Highly reccomended to use high tensile bolts from universal fastners or whoever does those in your area, to thread into your lower pully so it can then be removed with a decent puller.
If fitting a new belt, count off the teeth, and mark the new belt the same as the old one, count the teeth twice, and put a small dot every 10 tooth, helps you from going cross eyed when counting.
So you can put the belt back on correctly.
Dont worry that the injector pump moves, it can be put back as your fitting the new belt etc.
Again, measure twice and make sure everything lines up as it should, and that the marks are also correct, some may not do this, but if you have not done it before, this is an extra safeguard so you dont stuff it up.
With new belt fitted, and the tensioner free to self adjust, rotate engine 4 times, then tighten up the tensioner, then check that the timing marks align, unfortunately the marks you put on the belt will not line up as they have moved on, however you will see the timing marks on the cam, crank and injector pump.
Dont rotate the engine backwards, especially after the 4 rotations to set the belt tension. Dont over tighten the belt, the spring tension is enough, dont preload it as i have seen some do, there is no need.
The injector pump itself it not touched for adjusting the timing, as it should be left alone, and there is no need to move it.
then its just reverse order for putting it back together.
hope this helps.
have done 2.2, 2.4, 2.8, and 3.0 belts, and only problems ive faced is the different water pumps on the 2.2, and stuck crank pulleys.
cheers
Trains
Just thought to confirm, you have a 2L 2.4 diesel ??, or a 2 liter petrol.
I thought the 83 would be the L motor 2.2ltr diesel.
If its diesel then read below, of petrol, then someone else can chime in.
end edit.
Trains
short answer is no, you can remove the pump without touching the timing belt.
If you think you need to its no big deal to take the belt off, just read down further.
However you have to remove all the stuff from the front of the motor, alt belts, ac belt, ac compressor and mount so you can remove the timing cover.
Once pump is removed, give the gasket face, and area a very good clean, you dont want any scraped gasket or crap/ gunge to be left to wear out your timing belt. Flush out the block as best you can too.
A good dry off with air is good for removing stuff wedged in the corners of the pulleys and belt areas.
With the L ive been caught before with incorrect hight pumps.
They are indentical and bolt up, but one is longer in the shaft for the fan/pulley than the other.
So check the lenght of the shaft for the pulley as well as the rest of it with the one you remove.
With a 2L engine, your best bet is to remove the rad, (cant hurt to have it rodded at a rad place before summer whilst its out) and it gives you alot more room to move, and less likelyhood of damaging the rad.
Remove the bottom pulley 19mm socket, remove the timing cover and from there, you will see that you can remove the pump without taking off the timing belt.
If however you have done over 100,000k or are near it and have not done the belt, or your crank or cam seal is leaking, then put the engine on tdc, you will see the timing marks on the cam sprocket at 6 o clock, injector pump at 12, and crank at 12.
Then with liquid paper, or a permanent marker, mark the belt, and the pulleys at each point where the belt sits, so you have reference, as well as the already lined up timing marks.
So in essence you can put the belt back on in exactly the same place.
If you need to do the belt, then get a gates belt kit, it comes with tensioner, idler and seals. Most timing belts are not covered under warranty unless you replace these. and there cheaper than getting the parts seperately.
top cam seal is easily replaced, the cam pulley comes off quite easily, remove top cover, and your good to go, however the crank pulleys can be a right royal pain in the left nut as they sometimes stick to the crank, and dont want to come off.
Highly reccomended to use high tensile bolts from universal fastners or whoever does those in your area, to thread into your lower pully so it can then be removed with a decent puller.
If fitting a new belt, count off the teeth, and mark the new belt the same as the old one, count the teeth twice, and put a small dot every 10 tooth, helps you from going cross eyed when counting.
So you can put the belt back on correctly.
Dont worry that the injector pump moves, it can be put back as your fitting the new belt etc.
Again, measure twice and make sure everything lines up as it should, and that the marks are also correct, some may not do this, but if you have not done it before, this is an extra safeguard so you dont stuff it up.
With new belt fitted, and the tensioner free to self adjust, rotate engine 4 times, then tighten up the tensioner, then check that the timing marks align, unfortunately the marks you put on the belt will not line up as they have moved on, however you will see the timing marks on the cam, crank and injector pump.
Dont rotate the engine backwards, especially after the 4 rotations to set the belt tension. Dont over tighten the belt, the spring tension is enough, dont preload it as i have seen some do, there is no need.
The injector pump itself it not touched for adjusting the timing, as it should be left alone, and there is no need to move it.
then its just reverse order for putting it back together.
hope this helps.
have done 2.2, 2.4, 2.8, and 3.0 belts, and only problems ive faced is the different water pumps on the 2.2, and stuck crank pulleys.
cheers
Trains
Save the Whales......Collect the whole set.
My Wife Can't Shear..............But You Should See Her Crutch !
My Wife Can't Shear..............But You Should See Her Crutch !
Np, just wanted to clarify that.macklux83 wrote:hi mate,
mine is a 2.4L diesel,
thanks for all the help it makes it a lot easier,i think i will do the timing belt at the same time as its been about 80,000ks since it was done last and is one less thing to worry about
thanks again mate
Its been too long ago since ive done a petrol lux to remember correctly.
Any problems, just sing out, however if you have the manual, or a gregories type book, and youve done stuff before, you will be fine.
Trains
Save the Whales......Collect the whole set.
My Wife Can't Shear..............But You Should See Her Crutch !
My Wife Can't Shear..............But You Should See Her Crutch !
Its posts like this that make outerlimits such a great place ... I will be doing my timing belt soon as I have a new garage to do it in..trains wrote:Hi Macklux83.
Just thought to confirm, you have a 2L 2.4 diesel ??, or a 2 liter petrol.
I thought the 83 would be the L motor 2.2ltr diesel.
If its diesel then read below, of petrol, then someone else can chime in.
end edit.
Trains
short answer is no, you can remove the pump without touching the timing belt.
If you think you need to its no big deal to take the belt off, just read down further.
However you have to remove all the stuff from the front of the motor, alt belts, ac belt, ac compressor and mount so you can remove the timing cover.
Once pump is removed, give the gasket face, and area a very good clean, you dont want any scraped gasket or crap/ gunge to be left to wear out your timing belt. Flush out the block as best you can too.
A good dry off with air is good for removing stuff wedged in the corners of the pulleys and belt areas.
With the L ive been caught before with incorrect hight pumps.
They are indentical and bolt up, but one is longer in the shaft for the fan/pulley than the other.
So check the lenght of the shaft for the pulley as well as the rest of it with the one you remove.
With a 2L engine, your best bet is to remove the rad, (cant hurt to have it rodded at a rad place before summer whilst its out) and it gives you alot more room to move, and less likelyhood of damaging the rad.
Remove the bottom pulley 19mm socket, remove the timing cover and from there, you will see that you can remove the pump without taking off the timing belt.
If however you have done over 100,000k or are near it and have not done the belt, or your crank or cam seal is leaking, then put the engine on tdc, you will see the timing marks on the cam sprocket at 6 o clock, injector pump at 12, and crank at 12.
Then with liquid paper, or a permanent marker, mark the belt, and the pulleys at each point where the belt sits, so you have reference, as well as the already lined up timing marks.
So in essence you can put the belt back on in exactly the same place.
If you need to do the belt, then get a gates belt kit, it comes with tensioner, idler and seals. Most timing belts are not covered under warranty unless you replace these. and there cheaper than getting the parts seperately.
top cam seal is easily replaced, the cam pulley comes off quite easily, remove top cover, and your good to go, however the crank pulleys can be a right royal pain in the left nut as they sometimes stick to the crank, and dont want to come off.
Highly reccomended to use high tensile bolts from universal fastners or whoever does those in your area, to thread into your lower pully so it can then be removed with a decent puller.
If fitting a new belt, count off the teeth, and mark the new belt the same as the old one, count the teeth twice, and put a small dot every 10 tooth, helps you from going cross eyed when counting.
So you can put the belt back on correctly.
Dont worry that the injector pump moves, it can be put back as your fitting the new belt etc.
Again, measure twice and make sure everything lines up as it should, and that the marks are also correct, some may not do this, but if you have not done it before, this is an extra safeguard so you dont stuff it up.
With new belt fitted, and the tensioner free to self adjust, rotate engine 4 times, then tighten up the tensioner, then check that the timing marks align, unfortunately the marks you put on the belt will not line up as they have moved on, however you will see the timing marks on the cam, crank and injector pump.
Dont rotate the engine backwards, especially after the 4 rotations to set the belt tension. Dont over tighten the belt, the spring tension is enough, dont preload it as i have seen some do, there is no need.
The injector pump itself it not touched for adjusting the timing, as it should be left alone, and there is no need to move it.
then its just reverse order for putting it back together.
hope this helps.
have done 2.2, 2.4, 2.8, and 3.0 belts, and only problems ive faced is the different water pumps on the 2.2, and stuck crank pulleys.
cheers
Trains
" If governments are involved in the covering up the knowledge of aliens, Then they are doing a much better job of it than they do of everything else "
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