Just wondering whose done a body lift on an R9 series (98-02) V6 Rodeo.
I was looking at doing mine (35mm) but it looks like a big mission just to get a bit more tyre clearance for 33" tyres. Plus I'd have an LPG line to extend too (on the high pressure side)
I also want the extra clearance for some rock sliders to sit out square from the chassis and not hang below.
I've seen write ups about the deisel model body lifts which were pretty straight forward but the V6 is a different kettle of fish, mainly in the engine bay.
Any tips some one could throw my way will be very appreciated.
Cheers, Dave
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98 V6 Rodeo body lift
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98 V6 Rodeo body lift
Bordertrek 4X4 & Fabrication
0400 250 734 Bordertown SA
I love terra firma-the less firma the more terra
0400 250 734 Bordertown SA
I love terra firma-the less firma the more terra
I didn't have to do too much special for my body lift. I unclipped the bottom section of the radiator shroud and removed the extending part (almost like it was made to be removed 
)
I put a 2" extender in the gear stick and transfer case stick. Though I still need to bend the gearstick back towards the rear of cab a bit as i almost hit my knuckles on the dash in 1st and 3rd.
Brake lines were fine, as was clutch line.
The steering shaft has a sliding joint on it that allowed enough movement, don't have to unbolt anything for that.
There is a captive nut on the front of the tray which is tack welded on. I got a friend with a gas axe to attack it. Sprayed with water from hose around it on the fuel filler side.
Had to unbolt the cab to chassis safety bars, which are between the chassis rails just rear of the hand brake underneath. MOved these to on top of their mounts. Tray to cab captive was ok.
I then had my bullbar cut and rewelded to suit the lift and was able to redrill the holes on my hayman-reese towbar 2" as well.
Thats about it.
)I put a 2" extender in the gear stick and transfer case stick. Though I still need to bend the gearstick back towards the rear of cab a bit as i almost hit my knuckles on the dash in 1st and 3rd.
Brake lines were fine, as was clutch line.
The steering shaft has a sliding joint on it that allowed enough movement, don't have to unbolt anything for that.
There is a captive nut on the front of the tray which is tack welded on. I got a friend with a gas axe to attack it. Sprayed with water from hose around it on the fuel filler side.
Had to unbolt the cab to chassis safety bars, which are between the chassis rails just rear of the hand brake underneath. MOved these to on top of their mounts. Tray to cab captive was ok.
I then had my bullbar cut and rewelded to suit the lift and was able to redrill the holes on my hayman-reese towbar 2" as well.
Thats about it.
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