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wheel bearing preload

Tech Talk for Nissan owners.

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wheel bearing preload

Post by mattlux »

I have just finished putting my gq back together and have noticed that the wheel bearings are loose. I have just put new bearings in and preloaded them like any other tappered bearing, but with the wheel on i can feel movement in the bearings, and the only way to get rid of the movement is to do the nut up real tight with a screwdriver in the end of the nut tool. I cant leave it loose as it may cause shaky wheel and if i do it up tight it is way to much preload, so does anyone have any suggestions?
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Post by Big Red Toy »

buy a wheelbearing kit off ebay ;)

do your wheel bearings, swivel hub bearings, new lock washers & do it with a proper socket also ;)

i did mine last night ;)

Links to come....
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Post by Big Red Toy »

Style Side Maverick Ute
4.2 Turbo Diesel
35" Simex
4" Procomp suspension
2" Bodylift
Fibreglass Stuff....
Now highmount & Plasma :d
Posts: 88
Joined: Thu Nov 17, 2005 10:23 pm
Location: traralgon, vic

Post by mattlux »

Big Red Toy wrote:buy a wheelbearing kit off ebay ;)

do your wheel bearings, swivel hub bearings, new lock washers & do it with a proper socket also ;)

Links to come....
I have just put new ones in as well as swivel housing kit and an air locker, everything is new and it is a proper axle socket, i need to know if anyone has come across this and how tight did they preload them.
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Post by Big Red Toy »

shows me for not reading properly, i'm tired ok, i was up doing mine till 12:30 am today :?

Best way i reckon is to put the tyre back on & load it up till it feels right, sound simple enough? don't over tighten them or you'll kill them
Style Side Maverick Ute
4.2 Turbo Diesel
35" Simex
4" Procomp suspension
2" Bodylift
Fibreglass Stuff....
Now highmount & Plasma :d
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Post by mattlux »

Big Red Toy wrote:shows me for not reading properly, i'm tired ok, i was up doing mine till 12:30 am today :?

Best way i reckon is to put the tyre back on & load it up till it feels right, sound simple enough? don't over tighten them or you'll kill them

Thats what i have done but you have to do it up real tight to get rid of the movement and im worried it will just fry them.
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Post by lexi »

How tight are you loading them to get rid of play?
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Post by sw1 »

dont forget they need to bed in first

dont worry about it, do them up tight, check them the next weekend if you need to.
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Post by Cossie »

I did one side of mine last weekend. Put it all together, seemed perfect, road tested it for about one km and checked it again - loads of play in it!! One of the races mustn't have been all the way in (although I'm certain they were :? ) Anyway, I took it apart and retightened it, but this time just put the lock nut on and road tested again, when I got back there was just a tiny bit of play in it which I tightened out and it has been perfect since.

Moral of the story? set the preload as you see fit, lock it off, roadtest then check again before putting all the locking hub bits on.
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Post by mud guts »

In my hilux book bearing preload set by, set the bearing as stated, back it of, you should have the calliper removed(removes friction) and you put one of those spring loaded scales that weighs fishes, place one end of gauge on wheel stud to get the disk to rotate, starting effort is (2.9-5.7 kg), adjust hub nut to get it right.
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Post by sudso »

mud guts wrote:In my hilux book bearing preload set by, set the bearing as stated, back it of, you should have the calliper removed(removes friction) and you put one of those spring loaded scales that weighs fishes, place one end of gauge on wheel stud to get the disk to rotate, starting effort is (2.9-5.7 kg), adjust hub nut to get it right.
Just make sure its a good quality one.
Most of those fish scales aren't real accurate.
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Post by offroader-rama »

i did / had the same problem :oops: now throw out the instructions :armsup: arnt you a man :armsup: you dont need them :armsup: put wheel on do up till no movment in wheel as said :lol: do road test as said :lol: check for move ment tighten if needed lock it up close the shop :cool: check in six months and repack if needed ;) I did two years ago had to tighten/repack left wheel three months ago but all is still good :D :D
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Post by azzad »

All i do is put it all together, put the wheel on do the nut up as tight as I can turning the wheel at the same time then back it off until it feels right.

Drive for a bit and recheck.
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Post by offroader-rama »

thats what i do anyway :cool: works for me I used to do it by the book :roll: but always had wheel movement :cry:
:D but now it all goooood :D :D and i got 35's so if there was movment I'd feel it ;) you'll be fine :cool:
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Post by offroader-rama »

dont be shy with grease :lol: get it every where roll in the gonk :D when it dripping of your brow you know you have done it ;)
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Post by MD4x4 »

i thought there would have been some kind of torque setting on this nut.

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Post by AJS »

There is a torque setting and it is in the manual, which I hope you haven't thrown away. Do it up to the torque setting making sure you spin the wheel while tightening to seat the bearing properly. Use new lock washers because if you don't it will probably come loose. Change the snap ring as well. Check the wheel after a few hundred kays and if it is loose, retighten (using new lock washers again). They tend to come loose on the left hand side because of the wheel rotating in the same direction as the nut turns to undo.
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