RHS Body Lift

Post by **sanger** » Mon Oct 02, 2006 9:20 pm

Hey all,
I am going to do a 2" BL using 50x50 5mm wall RHS on my 94 sierra.
My questions are:
1. What method works best the single bolt all way through or the cut original stud and tap a thread whilst bolting in from bottom.

I am thinking the second method due to no cutting holes in floor for access to bolt heads.

2. If going second method what size bolts are needed etc. Trying to get a shopping list before i start.

If anyone has done this to their zook please give me some advice so i can throw some bigger rubber under it.

Cheers

Post by **Gutless** » Mon Oct 02, 2006 9:57 pm

most will tell you not to use RHS.

I am one of those people. It is illegal in moststates, and just plane dangerous. Can you consider using a solid material like steel or alloy?

Same principle with the cutting of the stud and threading whats left. You just do the same to the lift block, and thread it onto the cut stud. Then wind another high tensile bolt up from underneath.

Just My 2 cents.

Post by **sanger** » Tue Oct 03, 2006 1:32 pm

yea i could do that but i know that 5MM RHS withstands pretty much all stuff i wil be driving as i have a mate with the same method lift which he has had for 3 years and his have held fine even though he wheels the crap out of it.

So please if anyone out there can help me it would be much appreciated.

Post by **zooker** » Tue Oct 03, 2006 1:33 pm

It is illegal nowdays i have been told, however my zook had this lift fitted and fully engineered around 1998 (probably before rules changed and it was deemed illegal) so i am doubtful as to how 'dangerous' it is. Sure there must have been a reason the rules changed, but if it was engineered 'safe' then and there has not been a problem with the lift since, is it really that dangerous.

If someone knows exactly why they are illegal now and its a decent reason or safety issue, i'd probably change my bodylift over to the solid blocks for peace of mind, its not that much of a hassle.

just my 2c

Post by **sanger** » Tue Oct 03, 2006 1:46 pm

Yea if anyone can tell me if they are definately illegal in NSw and why then i will rethink my method.
But my mates zook has rhs blocks and was engineered a few years ago and has held up and coped well with spastic wheelin.

Post by **nicbeer** » Tue Oct 03, 2006 5:10 pm

if you do use RHS use a crush tube in the middle to stop it from crushing.

Nic

Post by **muppet_man67** » Tue Oct 03, 2006 5:18 pm

why use rhs when there are better options? ps I think anything that requires the drilling out or cutting of the original studs is a pox bootyfab way of doing a bodylift. there are options that are both reversable and superior from an engineering point of view. also once made they take less time to fit.

Post by **roc box** » Tue Oct 03, 2006 5:18 pm

it depends on how many blocks you use too.i have 18 in mine itll punch holes through the floor pan before anything crushes

Post by **sanger** » Tue Oct 03, 2006 6:23 pm

am aware there are superior products out there but as i am a uni student i am sticking to a tight budget.
So back to the bolts anyone?

Post by **christover1** » Tue Oct 03, 2006 6:26 pm

I've had 2" 50mm rhs body lift for over 8 years with no issues.

I used crush tubes on all the bolt thru ones, and for the 4 captives, I just bolted the rhs to the car, then another bolt down to the chassis. Also put blocks at every point original points were at. My rhs is less than 5mm thick and has not let go. I used every 2nd block at 90* to each other, to avoid to much stress in 1 direction, sounded right to me.

I don't think cutting floor is a good idea.

christover

Post by **sanger** » Tue Oct 03, 2006 6:32 pm

Yea floor cutting is bad apples in my opinion.

christover1: When u say captives what do u mean by that and where are they located. (noob question).

I plean on cutting original studs that come of the floor pan just where the thread ends. Then tap m10 thread on it and bolt it to the top of RHS. Then bolt through chassis mounting points through bottom of RHS.

Does it sound like im on the right track?

Post by **christover1** » Tue Oct 03, 2006 6:38 pm

sanger wrote:Yea floor cutting is bad apples in my opinion.

christover1: When u say captives what do u mean by that and where are they located. (noob question).

I plean on cutting original studs that come of the floor pan just where the thread ends. Then tap m10 thread on it and bolt it to the top of RHS. Then bolt through chassis mounting points through bottom of RHS.

Does it sound like im on the right track?

Mines a 1.0 litre, it is a bit different, that is it already has a thread all the way to top of studs (captive bolts) that are in 4 places 2 each side of the main floor pan. A 1.3 may have 2 more studs under the seats.
The rest just bolted through with 2" longer bolts.
It sounds like a good plan, but not sure why you need to cut the end off studs, mine wasn't necessary, but a 1.3 is different I'm told.

christover

Post by **sanger** » Tue Oct 03, 2006 6:55 pm

There is 10 mounting points that i am aware of. 2 at back, 4 under or close to rear seats, 2 under drivers seats, 2 at front.

From what i can see the bolts in my 1.3 would be too long to get the nut on the bolt that will e dolted from under the chassis mounts into the RHS.

From what i can gather by using the cruch tube u must have a bolt from the floor plan all the way through to the chassis mount.

Little confused at the moment.

Post by **christover1** » Tue Oct 03, 2006 7:11 pm

sanger wrote:There is 10 mounting points that i am aware of. 2 at back, 4 under or close to rear seats, 2 under drivers seats, 2 at front.

From what i can see the bolts in my 1.3 would be too long to get the nut on the bolt that will e dolted from under the chassis mounts into the RHS.

From what i can gather by using the cruch tube u must have a bolt from the floor plan all the way through to the chassis mount.

Little confused at the moment.

Not all the mounts are the same. The 4/6 under floor have a bolt/stud sticking out of floor pan..captive, no access to top of bolt.

The rest are a simple nut and bolt accessible from both ends. These just need to bolts 2" longer. These I used crush tubes on.

I did not use crush tubes on the studs, I just used a nut to fix rhs to the floor stud, and a nut and bolt to fix it to the chassis. Mine did have room without cutting stud off, but clearly a 1.3 does not.

Some are just supports, ie no bolts, I tack welded blocks in them too, but many don't bother.

I'll be back with pix if I can find any.

christover

Post by **sanger** » Tue Oct 03, 2006 7:27 pm

your a genies. Well explained. I am with u know. After looking at it again i may need to cut as little as 5mm of the captive bolts to get the nut to fit in the RHS so the bottom nut can aslo fit.

If u have a pic it would be awsome.

Post by **christover1** » Tue Oct 03, 2006 7:43 pm

could not find a pic so made 1. hope it helps

Post by **christover1** » Tue Oct 03, 2006 7:45 pm

1.3's have a funny dish shaped rubber mount, not sure if this changes anything? Hopefully a 1.3 owner will kick in.

christover

Post by **sanger** » Tue Oct 03, 2006 7:51 pm

yea that diagram is on the money. yea not sure what the go is with the cup shaped washer, does it need to stay?

How long are the NT captives. My WT are approx 55mm from the floor pan.

Post by **christover1** » Tue Oct 03, 2006 8:09 pm

sanger wrote:yea that diagram is on the money. yea not sure what the go is with the cup shaped washer, does it need to stay?

How long are the NT captives. My WT are approx 55mm from the floor pan.

You do need a rubber bush/buffer of some type, or you'll get huge noises and vibration problems, and possible cracking of body etc. Probably best to keep originals, easiest too I guess.

My studs were short enuff to fit inside the 50mm rhs and still have room to fit the nut on the stud, and the nut & bolt for the chassis..
I imagine the 55mm includes room for the rubber bush, so less than that will stick out into the rhs.

It will all make sense when you start.
PS don't remove all body mounts in 1 go, as body goes floppy and it gets very hard to line up the bolts again. Loosen one side a lot, and remove other side etc.

christover

Post by **christover1** » Tue Oct 03, 2006 8:12 pm

useful info in here

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... highlight=

Post by **sanger** » Tue Oct 03, 2006 8:26 pm

christover1
thanks mate appreciate all the help.

Post by **roc box** » Wed Oct 04, 2006 1:04 pm

christover1 wrote:1.3's have a funny dish shaped rubber mount, not sure if this changes anything? Hopefully a 1.3 owner will kick in.

christover

done one for a mate a while back doesnt seem to make very little difference.

Post by **roc box** » Wed Oct 04, 2006 1:06 pm

sanger wrote:yea that diagram is on the money. yea not sure what the go is with the cup shaped washer, does it need to stay?

How long are the NT captives. My WT are approx 55mm from the floor pan.

just come round and have a good look at mine sanger

Post by **sanger** » Wed Oct 04, 2006 1:09 pm

i have Troy but was confused when i was asking all those questions. So thought id do some more research so i didnt have to ask u stupid S#$T.
Will maybe do it this weekend.

Ill let ya know Roc Box

Post by **roc box** » Wed Oct 04, 2006 1:13 pm

if ya get stuck give me a yell

Post by **joeblow** » Sat Oct 07, 2006 5:45 pm

using rhs......hang on.......going to toilet......can't crap.......ass is too tight........bugga!

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