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York Compressor run by electric motor
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
York Compressor run by electric motor
Hi guys i was going to hook up a york compressor as a on board air system but am struggling to find a place to hook it with the belt system so i was looking around on the net and found this system
http://www.oasismfg.com/p2.html
It looks like a good idea but i was wondering how much a 2.5hp motor would be to connect to the compressor?
Do you guys think it would be a good option to hook a 12v motor to the compressor to fill a tank? im guessing it would need to run around 1000rpm hey?
Hopefully hear some comments, thanks.
http://www.oasismfg.com/p2.html
It looks like a good idea but i was wondering how much a 2.5hp motor would be to connect to the compressor?
Do you guys think it would be a good option to hook a 12v motor to the compressor to fill a tank? im guessing it would need to run around 1000rpm hey?
Hopefully hear some comments, thanks.
I'd spend a bit longer looking for somewhere to mount it to the engine and borrow a belt.
Are you sure you can't move something eg pas pump, air con pump, alternator, and put it above or below that? Or use it to replace an idler/tensioning pulley on something?
It's easy for the engine to turn the sucker, but a bit of an ask for an electric motor.
If you are going to run it from a leccy motor, I can't help thinking a belt drive setup might be best to get some gearing happening.
Are you sure you can't move something eg pas pump, air con pump, alternator, and put it above or below that? Or use it to replace an idler/tensioning pulley on something?
It's easy for the engine to turn the sucker, but a bit of an ask for an electric motor.
If you are going to run it from a leccy motor, I can't help thinking a belt drive setup might be best to get some gearing happening.
This is not legal advice.
.... or a replacement winch motor would have sufficient torquel.
CBC bearings (and probably others) have the flexible couplers to go between the two units. Tapered shafts are a bit hard to join to - the york is a taper type.
Oasis (US) sells them pre built http://www.oasismfg.com/p3.html
Very expensive tho ...
What sort of truck are you trying to shoe-horn this into?
CBC bearings (and probably others) have the flexible couplers to go between the two units. Tapered shafts are a bit hard to join to - the york is a taper type.
Oasis (US) sells them pre built http://www.oasismfg.com/p3.html
Very expensive tho ...
What sort of truck are you trying to shoe-horn this into?
If it's worth doing - it's worth doing to excess ...
I was looking at a winch replacement motor an saw that these would be sufficient, how much roughly is a winch replacement motor?
Also i notice when you try to crank over an engine for a while the cables get very hot, wouldnt the same happen if you crank the compressor over for a while? or is it only because you have a fair bit of torque to turn over an engine.
I quite like the starter motor idea because they arent that expensive and would be good for a trial. I want to try this as its something different rather than hook it up a belt because it may also have the advantage of being portable, thanks.
Also i notice when you try to crank over an engine for a while the cables get very hot, wouldnt the same happen if you crank the compressor over for a while? or is it only because you have a fair bit of torque to turn over an engine.
I quite like the starter motor idea because they arent that expensive and would be good for a trial. I want to try this as its something different rather than hook it up a belt because it may also have the advantage of being portable, thanks.
i have tried connecting a starter motor and air cond pump. it does work but the starter motor pulls that many amps that the jumper leads i was using were getting very hot and the ute battery was struggling to keep up.
i would not recommend tying it, as it is not a practical set up!
i turned up a new pulley for the starter motor and used a small v belt to connect the two. did have some pics someware, but cant find them now!!
cookie monster
i would not recommend tying it, as it is not a practical set up!
i turned up a new pulley for the starter motor and used a small v belt to connect the two. did have some pics someware, but cant find them now!!
cookie monster
99 GU Patrol Wagon 4.2td
Have you considered a two belt "relay" setup? If it is angles and clearances that is the main problem then this may fix it for you. It could also allow you to use some bellhousing bolts to mount a bracket with the compressor on it further back in the engine bay.
Using a high powered electric motor is going to cause more problems than it cures (charging/alternator output/wire guage/cumulative mechanical and ellectrical losses and inefficiencies, etc)
Using a high powered electric motor is going to cause more problems than it cures (charging/alternator output/wire guage/cumulative mechanical and ellectrical losses and inefficiencies, etc)
George Carlin, an American Comedian said; "Think of how stupid the average person is, and realise that half of them are stupider than that".
Simply a loop from crankshaft to an idler shaft then another loop from idler shaft to compressor.superg wrote:I still reckon you could use a 12v motor, if the website i put up can do it why cant i?
Also what does this twin relay belt setup look like?
(Look at a super charged Commodore V6 to get an idea, can put the idler shaft wherever you need though)
George Carlin, an American Comedian said; "Think of how stupid the average person is, and realise that half of them are stupider than that".
No reason you can't do it, it's all a matter of time and $$.
In this case the big drawback is the load you will put on your electrical system, you are looking at something like a 2kW motor (minimum) to drive a York compressor with, so around 150 amps - give or take.
You will be looking at $3-400 for a winch motor, machining up of adapter plates etc (maybe $100?), shaft couplers ($150 new), cables (heavy duty 1GA? - $20/m?), 200Amp relays, mounting hardware etc ... the same things you would need to do to wire up a winch. The current draw is similar.
150 amps is a lot of juice to pull from a battery - you may get about 20 minutes of runtime out of the unit on a standard N70ZZ battery ... but certainly wouldn't have anything left to start the vehicle with.
I looked into the same setup when I was doing my compressor setup - but it was easier and cheaper just to fabricate some brackets up to make the compressor fit under the bonnet.
What sort of vehicle do you have? One of us may be able to suggest something ...
In this case the big drawback is the load you will put on your electrical system, you are looking at something like a 2kW motor (minimum) to drive a York compressor with, so around 150 amps - give or take.
You will be looking at $3-400 for a winch motor, machining up of adapter plates etc (maybe $100?), shaft couplers ($150 new), cables (heavy duty 1GA? - $20/m?), 200Amp relays, mounting hardware etc ... the same things you would need to do to wire up a winch. The current draw is similar.
150 amps is a lot of juice to pull from a battery - you may get about 20 minutes of runtime out of the unit on a standard N70ZZ battery ... but certainly wouldn't have anything left to start the vehicle with.
I looked into the same setup when I was doing my compressor setup - but it was easier and cheaper just to fabricate some brackets up to make the compressor fit under the bonnet.
What sort of vehicle do you have? One of us may be able to suggest something ...
If it's worth doing - it's worth doing to excess ...
yeah above the alternator is the best place. We also mounted another alternator above that!. AC unit is fixed to a plate that bolts to the block, there are a copule of spare threaded holes nearby. The second alt is mounted to a special bracket that uses the themostat housing bolts at the top, and is welded to the AC unit plate. Bit complex but it works.
Nice gq swb ute chop with a huffer for the good times
Nah ... plenty of room!
Don't know about the York in particular though ... I had a modified Unicla twin piston installed on my old 2H for a while - worked very well - very fast air up times.
This photo was taken just before I took it off, so ignore the loose belt and disconnected hoses But gives you an idea of where it's mounted. This one was in a HJ45
Don't know about the York in particular though ... I had a modified Unicla twin piston installed on my old 2H for a while - worked very well - very fast air up times.
This photo was taken just before I took it off, so ignore the loose belt and disconnected hoses But gives you an idea of where it's mounted. This one was in a HJ45
If it's worth doing - it's worth doing to excess ...
You should have heaps of room on the RHS of the engine - that's usually where the P/S and A/C are located - if you don't have one or both, you should be laughing!
There are some "spare" bolt holes up the top on the head and block that should be suitable to mount the compressor.
You may be able to get away with a spacer arrangement - similar to what this fellow has done:
http://www.steelnthings.com/TLCA/2Fswap/
Also Tom Quinn @ http://www.tomquinn.com/lc/2f_fi/index.html has some pictures of a 2F with a York installed in this location. Not close up, but it gives you an idea.
There are some "spare" bolt holes up the top on the head and block that should be suitable to mount the compressor.
You may be able to get away with a spacer arrangement - similar to what this fellow has done:
http://www.steelnthings.com/TLCA/2Fswap/
Also Tom Quinn @ http://www.tomquinn.com/lc/2f_fi/index.html has some pictures of a 2F with a York installed in this location. Not close up, but it gives you an idea.
If it's worth doing - it's worth doing to excess ...
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